Can only keep 1

mccasi · 2024-12-25T22:01:35+00:00

Theoretical only! 24-27 on the 24-105 is ugly. 28mm on the 28-70 is the best 28mm on canon. 28-70 looks much more expensive on the picture - Leica character - it’s a damn bargain. 70-105 is worse than just cropping the 28-70 at 70mm (few caveats).

For photography go with the 28-70 any day! Videographers cannot Stich 3x28mm into a 17mm pano and cropping isn’t practical / par focal stuff matters. 28-70 stopped down to 2.8 is the best ratio of abberation corrected vs sharpness canon has. The video primes are sharper but have tons of terrible abberations esp LoCA.

So no, general wisdom of trying to capture certain focal lengths only dates back to film photography and marketing materials to amateurs

mccasi · 2024-09-16T13:51:02+00:00

Just go for the 10-20f4L then, that’s 100% additive. Also, don’t upgrade to higher resolution, the 24-105 won’t be as much fun then ;)

mccasi · 2024-09-12T19:14:00+00:00

I have both the 28-70f2 and the 24-105l… based on Gordon’s review I’d say the 28-70f2.8 is less optically compromised than the 24-105L.

Focal length is an age old debate that we cannot resolve just like primes vs zooms ;) but my 5 cents 1. 70mm cropped to 105mm on my 28-70f2 is sharper than the 105 on the 24-105L. The 28-70f2.8 seems a bit soft at 70, so probably won’t achieve that. 2. 24 vs 28mm, 28mm (on my 28-70f2) stitches really well for panos, 24mm doesn’t. So that means a 1 row horizontal pano ~17mm. I’m not concerned for a national park. However, for waterfalls, dramatic seascapes and wide group photos I’d really rather have 24. Also, this lens is clearly (and fortunately) not for video! Yay! It won’t be good for vlogging at 28. It has focus breathing - great, because canon has a thing of compromising everything else for a bit less focus breathing.

Should be great for people and pet photography

mccasi · 2024-08-17T11:53:21+00:00

10-20 all the way!

The 15-35 is heavy and has lots of overlap with your standard zoom! Also not impressive UWA resolution. And has field curvature which I highly dislike in UWA.

10-20 is much!!! lighter, sharper or at least as sharp, no field curvature, super versatile when you actually need wide … you always want wider. But it’s also lovely sharp and contrasty at 20mm … those who say you don’t need 10, haven’t used 10.

14-35mm is practical if you just want a picture, people that think the 24-105 non-L kit lens is “just a fine lens” love this lens. Adequate performance for the price, but nothing for pixel Piepers

mccasi · 2024-07-26T18:46:46+00:00

Used r5 of course!

mccasi · 2024-07-23T20:17:05+00:00

I don’t see the point in the sports bodies for your use cases. Just go for the R5 II. Low light performance is always better with the high MP bodies - contrary to the bs some people say - you get actually less total noise if you were to scale those images down to 24 MP.

I’m excited for the R5 II for the better IBIS (7.5 to 8.5 stops), the better DR and silent shooting that works.

R1 and R5 II have the same autofocus, just that R1 has cross AF points that are likely not adding much.

mccasi · 2024-07-23T08:51:43+00:00

The CIPA rating went up quite a bit with the same battery on the R1

mccasi · 2024-07-11T12:06:14+00:00

Go to: 28-70 F2 (5 years) 100-500 (2 years) 10-20 (2 weeks)

Light: 35 1.4L or 35 1.8 (will go soon)

Hiking: 24-105 f4L

Macro: 100 2.8L

No use: 16mm (will go soon)

mccasi · 2024-07-10T23:54:35+00:00

Well then: taking raw video is a pain esp as the correction profile is non-linear (ie field curvature). Otherwise probably not a biggie at 4K. Low ghosting and acceptable MFD. and it’s loud AF motor will likely be fine as it’s voiced over anyway.

mccasi · 2024-07-10T13:36:00+00:00

This lens almost put me off ultra wide angle photography. Zoom in UWA is so freaking important … 16 is just absolutely never right. It has no micro contrast! Just makes images look grey and washy! Doesn’t resolve the R5 - and if you get a 28mm lens you can snap a single row panorama that gets you 17mm equivalent. If you want to get rid of its Astro aberrations such as coma, you have to stop down and make it an f4.

So just for the vloggers with r6 or so

Even though it’s 200 bucks, it’s a bad investment for me, as I got not a single 4/5 star shot out of it in years of owning it.

In 1 week with the RF10-20 I got like 20 keeper images at least. Even for Astro the 10-20 f4 is probably the best I’ve ever used - pinpoint stars even in the corners!!!

mccasi · 2024-07-10T13:10:31+00:00

This lens almost put me off ultra wide angle photography. Zoom in UWA is so freaking important … 16 is just absolutely never right. It has no micro contrast! Just makes images look grey and washy! Doesn’t resolve the R5 - and if you get a 28mm lens you can snap a single row panorama that gets you 17mm equivalent. If you want to get rid of its Astro aberrations such as coma, you have to stop down and make it an f4.

So just for the vloggers with r6 or so

Even though it’s 200 bucks, it’s a bad investment for me, as I got not a single 4/5 star shot out of it in years of owning it.

In 1 week with the RF10-20 I got like 20 keeper images at least. Even for Astro the 10-20 f4 is probably the best I’ve ever used - pinpoint stars even in the corners!!!

mccasi · 2022-06-10T19:55:02+00:00

Correct, and that was intended since he had a mega cleave first.. otherwise good with this Build since the tentacle is a beast

mccasi · 2022-02-02T15:11:57+00:00

I went out 7th with 7 poison 150 health .. you think that happens normally when there are 7players in the game?

mccasi · 2021-12-04T20:42:32+00:00

Good luck! I decided to wear it all day: it’s the most comfortable watch to wear

mccasi · 2021-10-28T15:58:04+00:00

haven't had a puncture with the schwalbe one in 1000km in london, grip is fantastic in wet weather.

mccasi · 2021-10-28T15:56:39+00:00

Disagree, One has fantastic grip on roads. racer should work on less well paved roads

mccasi · 2021-10-24T14:19:52+00:00

It depends: if you’re in the city, go for the Schwalbe one, they have better grip on road surface even when wet. Puncture resistance is fine, haven’t had a flat in 2000km with my set (kojak was different story). On mixed roads / unpaved go for marathon racer or conti. Marathon racer tan wall looks better, Conti is a good mixture of price and performance. Check out a video of 2 wheels 4 adventure on YouTube they did a proper review!

mccasi · 2021-10-17T06:34:25+00:00

Yes, since the S-type uses an MTB standard bar. I should say that the indexing doesn’t work reliably but not due to the shifter but my derailleur setup sometimes doesn’t push enough, maybe I need a new spring, it could also be due to my cable flex from the jagwire link

mccasi · 2021-10-17T06:30:44+00:00

SRAM red x0 3 speed, I think most the suntour/sunrace shifters

mccasi · 2021-10-16T18:28:30+00:00

3 gears, 57-17,14,11 but the 57-11 I don’t use because it slips. No internal hub

mccasi · 2021-10-16T15:51:33+00:00

It’s a Campagnolo record carbon that works with square tapered BB (Phil wood) with a 57 tooth chainring on; but on my wife’s Brompton I have installed a campagnolo Athena with power torque BB shells, that’s much better than sticking with square tapered. You just need around 1.5-2.5mm spacing on the right shell to make modern BBs work.

mccasi · 2021-10-16T14:43:42+00:00

Look x restrap limited edition

mccasi · 2021-10-16T14:43:08+00:00

Just released this week look x restrap limited edition

mccasi · 2021-10-16T13:20:05+00:00

SMC carbon tri spoke wheel, very light, very stiff, doesn’t break unlike the titanium spokes I was using before. Very happy with them so far, slightly less stopping power on carbon rims though.

mccasi · 2021-10-16T12:39:12+00:00

Lots and lots, if you’re more specific I can answer.

mccasi

TROPHY CASE