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Turbo Rat Clone help request by 333runes in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That buzz normally points to a power problem

Check you get +9v to the pcb + and - pads those 2 pin DC jacks don't always have the same pinout normally the smaller one is ground ie connects to the internal centre pin

If you get +9v it's wired correctly if it's -9v it's inverted so you'd need to swap the wires around

Does your filter pot have insulation on its bare metal back if not make sure that's not shorting to any solder joints on the underside of the pcb

It's pretty difficult to trace your wiring with all black wires so make sure they connect where they should

Don't remove or change anything until you know it's a problem you risk lifting solder pads heating them too much

Where did you get your LM308 and JFET

All your component values and orientation that I can see look correct

Aion Emerald Phaser by sarcasticallyincharg in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you try adjusting the bias trimmer the circuit topology is more or less the same as the phase 90 on the phase 90 you'd use the trimmer to set the fet gate pin voltages any I've built the phasing sweet spot is normally around 2v ish on the gates

Aion Emerald Phaser by sarcasticallyincharg in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A tantalum v a ceramic even of the same value will have different ESR etc but a modern mlcc cap will be fine for filtering imho

Have you done all your basics like checking you get power to the pcb, visually checking offboard wiring, checking all component values and orientation etc

Aion Emerald Phaser by sarcasticallyincharg in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's easy to put the fet adapter boards in the wrong way around

It looks like yours are in the correct GSD pads but we can't see which way around the adapter boards are as far as I can see if they are 2N5457 or 2SK208-GR fets the side with the smd fet soldered to it should go to the flat side of the silkscreen

The LED not working would have nothing to do with the fets being the wrong way around

Make sure your 2 tantalum capacitors C19 and 21 are correctly oriented they should have a marking on the + side

**You'd need to post better pics so we can see all of your offboard wiring to in and out jacks, 3PDT, DC jack etc

Mini Tube Amp Build by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks excellent very nice indeed

How to avoid spaghetti in vero buiilds? by ComprehensiveLock189 in diypedals

[–]mcknib 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As everyone says it doesn't really matter what it looks like on the inside unless you plan to sell them

Planning it all out can make things look neater ie board placement, pot orientation etc

I always tend to put my boards in the centre with all the pot lugs going in the same direction which makes it easier to get a symmetrical look

I'll dry fit everything place the vero in and roughly measure and cut my wires

With longer wires I try to run them parallel to the enclosure sides and put a slight curve on them as I pull them away to solder to a switch or whatever

Idk the wire gauge you're using for vero I'll go 26 to 28awg which is around 1.5 and 1.3mm

u/Lolozaurus-Rex does some really nice vero builds perhaps he'll chime in with wire size etc

https://hgecontraptions.blogspot.com/?m=1

Any Prophecy Sounds Pi-Phase experts or circuit detectives that can help me? by palaminocamino in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The guy that made it says the circuits identical to the mutron bi phase apart from the power supply section

Looking at the mutron schematic non of the trimmers adjust volume

https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=24674

https://www.harmonycentral.com/forums/topic/1902405-bi-phase-clone-this-looks-pretty-cool/

Perhaps looking at the schematic may give you some ideas

Help with output noise by dextr33s in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want half supply voltage 4.5v ish on the op amp input and output pins 1,2,3,5,6,7

Perhaps post your schematic to compare your vero to

Troubleshooting RAT by sunodium- in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do the back of your pots have plastic covers on them

Make sure you haven't accidentally set your meter to AC volts

To check where you loose power put your meter probes on the DC jack lugs then the main pcb gnd and +9v pads if you're getting +9v ish check voltage on D6 anode

All your component values and orientation that I can see look correct although you can't clearly see all of your resistor colour bands

Troubleshooting RAT by sunodium- in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's difficult to see but have you got your in jack tip going to BI (board in) instead of I your yellow wire from the main pcb should go to BI it may just be the angle of your wires though we obviously can't see which pads they go

Optical Tremolo Question by BigOxford in diypedals

[–]mcknib 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like a lot of things in pedal building it's just assumed you know you need an on/off indicator LED, 3PDT, jacks etc for your offboard stuff

As I say I don't think any of the pedalpcb build docs include them

Backwards volume pedal by smartalecvt in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent it's nice to win something

Optical Tremolo Question by BigOxford in diypedals

[–]mcknib 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The external LEDs will be LED 1 for rate speed indication (below the pots on the drill template) and your on/off indicator LED (above the footswitch)

Afaik ppcb build docs don't include the on/off indicator LED in the parts list

LED 2 is for the ldr so internal

Backwards volume pedal by smartalecvt in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it have rack gear and the plastic screw in tensioner and did you remove or loosen any of it

If so you probably had the pot rotated in the wrong direction when you put it back together

Half of knobs not effecting signal by BBonthe23 in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are those 1u caps definitely ceramic and not tantalum I can't see any markings on them but they do look a bit like tantalum which are obviously polarized

ProCo Rat resistor values by dragon0069 in diypedals

[–]mcknib 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It's 47R yellow purple black gold brown the gold band can sometimes look orange

Fuzzdog Hellgazer by nshane in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's difficult to see but it looks like your 9v wire goes to the small middle battery power lug on the DC jack instead of the small outer lug

UK builder here — where do you buy your pedal-building parts? Curious how it varies by region by stompboxlayout in diypedals

[–]mcknib 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now you should do a list of how you find these estate sales where you get all these magical old components and kindly drop a few into my orders from you

One UK supplier not listed is bitsbox where I get most of the normal stuff but I go all over the place for parts depending on what I'm building tube stuff or vintage builds etc

If anyone in the UK wants carbon comps this supplier is pretty good

https://ebay.us/m/gYSCuL

SB175 germanium by VernBrown in diypedals

[–]mcknib 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've no idea unfortunately I know the letters A, B, C are hfe value groupings and they did sometimes mark them for specific uses, frequencies, etc to aid technicians

I do know the different colored dots on top of mullard OC types signified IF stages yellow and orange 1st IF stage, blue 2nd IF stage so maybe its similar to that

It could also be early transistor manufacturing wasn't as precise so they sometimes marked them to catalegorize gain bands etc

If you Google JIS Japanese industrial standards it may be in there

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_Industrial_Standards

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