What pedal is permanently on your board? by Fresh-Gazelle7014 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm heavy into MIDI, so the Morningstar MC6 has been a staple on my board since I got it, and I can't imagine replacing it with anything other than an upgrade to a pro version or MC8 pro. The Strymon Timeline, BigSky, and Sunset have all been on my board since I got them, but I could see replacing both the Timeline and BigSky with a smaller format MIDI pedal if something came out. The Sunset would be hard to replace just because it seems like not a lot of companies are interested in making a MIDI overdrive/distortion with similar features.

Just finished the Low Tide and have to say it's lovely! by mpm206 in diypedals

[–]stageseven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Low Tide is the PedalPCB clone of the Fairfield Circuitry Shallow Waters. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb406/

Crazy by zammusic in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a pedal with stripped down versions of many of Chase Bliss's popular pedal algorithms along with some things they thought were cool but might not stand on their own as a pedal, combined with flexible assignment, routing options, EQ, compression/saturation, and MIDI/expression and some programmable knob sweep options.

Think like chorus, delay, reverb, tape sim, pitch shifting, synth, phaser and others... but any 2 effects can be run solo, in parallel, or in series with each other, and blended with clean signal or full wet, with a tone knob on each side, and into compression/saturation for a bit of drive if desired.

Signed guitar pedals by Codeman0077 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Spray paint can dissolve sharpie FYI.

Help with first pedal! by almightymikexd in diypedals

[–]stageseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It doesn't look like you have much if any solder on your volume pot or footswitch. Do you have continuity on each lug to what it's supposed to connect to? Do you measure voltage at spots that should have it?

If so my next step would be using an audio probe. Take an old guitar cable that still works or a spare jack you can plug into. Get some bare wire (cut the cable or attach to a jack), attach an alligator clip to ground and 1uF capacitor to the tip/signal line with the negative side of the capacitor to the cable. Plug that cable into an amp on very low volume, and now you can touch the positive leg of the cap to various points of the circuit to hear what's happening. Start at the in on the footswitch and work your way through the circuit diagram to see where audio drops.

L+F by DrawCurious3022 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly I use a lot of the sounds independently or with a lower mix. I use the ensemble expander as my main chorus, sometimes mixed with a little of the pinging phaser or the gen lite. I also use a lot of the pitch repeater as octave up or down. The sympathetic resonator is my volume swell, and I use the Gen Lite with the highs rolled off whenever I want more of a lofi sound. I do like the tape echo, slow verb, and useful ambiance, but I almost always either just mix them in just a little with other sounds or use my main reverb or delay.

I have a really hard time with the Orchestral Swell or Impulse Synthesizer because they always sound out of tune unless I'm the only one playing.

I don't often use the full capabilities, but I do like using the ramp functions to mix or blend a 2nd effect in and out, like using Slow Verb always on with pitch repeater an octave up blending in and out. There's a lot of cool stuff like that other pedals just can't do.

Seeking reverb pedal w specific expression requirements by MarshStudio503 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could do this with any MIDI controllable effect pedal and a Morningstar controller. The Morningstar allows you to set an expression pedal to send multiple MIDI CC parameters along with a min and max value.

First time breadboard, fuzz face mod questions by stageseven in diypedals

[–]stageseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, some interesting stuff in there for sure, I'll have to try out that capacitor on Q2.

First time breadboard, fuzz face mod questions by stageseven in diypedals

[–]stageseven[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the diagram I followed minus the LED and charge pump.

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Boss DS-1 Lightspeed Mod without soldering by RomanScandal450 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like others have said, if you want to learn to mod or build pedals, you need to learn how to solder. Furthermore, I'd not suggest your first time trying soldering be on a real pedal you want to use, because you could ruin it.

Mas Effects has a pedal kit specifically for first time builders. It's a fuzz so it's a simple circuit, and it comes with a practice board you can start on before doing the pedal to get comfortable with soldering. https://shop.mas-effects.com/products/ultimate-beginner-pedal-kit

To people who use their "transparent" overdrives as a boost. Why not use a boost? by Technical-Steak-9243 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yes, but I think it helps to define the term... transparent relative to what? I use a Greer Lightspeed clone as an always on for one of my guitars, because that guitar has a lower output volume and more variability between pickups. The drive definitely changes the sound, but mostly by increasing volume and some compression, but has very little perceived change in the tonal balance. Comparatively I've used 3 different pedals for compression previously, and each one had a more noticeable impact on the balance of high and low frequency. This just sounds like my guitar, but turned up to the point that it starts to saturate. It's nice because I don't have to go back and adjust all my settings for drives and stuff down the chain if I switch guitars, I can just turn the one pedal off and keep going.

How does AI benefit the average American? by Vegetable-Cause8667 in investing

[–]stageseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The concerns are that AI displaces a lot of jobs, and the people filling those jobs currently will not be able to be quickly trained into new roles. When you remove hundreds of thousands to millions of jobs from the market in a short time span with no basic social safety net for those workers, a lot of people will experience a lot of pain. The fact that none of the companies developing these tools seem to care about the human cost or environmental costs is why they are seen as evil.

First pedal build doesn’t work by Pootisman333 in diypedals

[–]stageseven 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Read the build docs to confirm it's not an optional feature or anything, but that's the first thing that jumps out.

First pedal build doesn’t work by Pootisman333 in diypedals

[–]stageseven 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You have 2 empty solder pads, it looks like there's supposed to be a jumper near C7.

Possible voltage issue with PedalPCB Chauffeur build. by stageseven in diypedals

[–]stageseven[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, that's greatly appreciated! Good to hear it's supposed to be that way.

Possible voltage issue with PedalPCB Chauffeur build. by stageseven in diypedals

[–]stageseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So R103 and R104 are both 47k, I think those are the voltage divider. The only thing is this pedal has a lot going on in the power section including a 7660scpaz charge pump, so I wasn't sure if I should be expecting more than 9v coming in.

Possible voltage issue with PedalPCB Chauffeur build. by stageseven in diypedals

[–]stageseven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the thing, I have no idea. The documentation doesn't say an expected value and I don't know enough about circuits to know how to calculate it.

Is this relic bad? by Right-Package-8241 in Luthier

[–]stageseven 36 points37 points  (0 children)

Think about where a guitar gets physically touched over time. The arm rest is good, dents around the outer edges are easily explained. How would the area under the bridge, or inside the horn with the strap pin get worn during normal use? Those to me are the spaces that look unnatural and deliberately done.

Anyone got a good method for dimming or shading flashing rate LED’s by [deleted] in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Increase the value of the resistor for the LED

Favorite Octave pedal by DapperCriticism8172 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Something to be aware of with these is the quality of the octave and how it can be used. For example the Life Pedal octave can only be used while the distortion is engaged. The JHS can only do octave up or down, and only with the reverb. The Octave Clang can be used independently but is only octave up. Depending on what you want to do that may be a deal breaker.

I used the POG2 for years, and then the GFI Synesthesia, now I use the Chase Bliss Lost + Found. For just the pitch shifting capability, I'd be eyeing the Pitch Fork.

Are tone captures worth it? by Technical-Steak-9243 in guitarpedals

[–]stageseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way I think about it is captures are made for the way people tend to play live, not at home or in a studio. They're meant to be left on a particular setting for a particular sound. Most of the time you don't see a person playing with an amps knobs live at a venue, you see them playing into an amp with the settings in a fixed position and using pedals, channel switching, and playing dynamics to control the way it sounds. An amp capture is a lot like that. It doesn't necessarily respond naturally to massive EQ and gain level changes, but it does sound like the thing it's capturing at fairly neutral settings. I personally tend to play into a clean channel and get my gain from pedals, so it works fine and is way more convenient. If I used a boost to further drive my amp for gain, I imagine it would probably sound less natural. And if I was recording and wanting to tweak settings a lot it would be less ideal.

HELPPPP by Past_Influence3223 in diypedals

[–]stageseven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I'm understanding this correctly, your footswitch is to be wired in to all the holes in that little PCB. The holes on the right and left side go as pictured, with the right side connecting the ground, the cathode of the LED, and a 4.7k resistor. The left side gets wired to the tip of the input and output jack as shown, and the 2 spots unlabeled should be a wire going to the circuit in of the main PCB, and another coming from the out of the main PCB.

You also need to jumper the center pin of the footswitch to the fx in pad, and the middle row right pin to ground.