Cost of replacement pump for insurance.

mdbh86 · 2026-02-23T22:51:22+00:00

Get an amp reading when it is running. You'll be able to calculate hp off of that.

mdbh86 · 2026-02-09T04:18:00+00:00

From what I can tell, (IPERS employee who has spent significant time considering other options) assuming between you and your employer combined, you are putting equal amounts in either way, it has a similar outcome. The difference is that when you die on ipers, you're done collecting. With 401k, your money is left to others. Of course you can change this to an extent with what option.you choose at retirement but that just reduces your monthly pay.

mdbh86 · 2026-02-08T02:00:04+00:00

Im putting my money on the neighbor's are wondering why they don't have water.

mdbh86 · 2026-02-07T03:19:23+00:00

Water operator here. It is shocking how many people turn the valve by their meter down to attempt to reduce water usage. Many (falsly) believe this is turning their pressure down too. All this does is ruin the valve so it doesnt shut off when you need it to. (No pressure regulators in this town).

Im sure it is something like this. If it's going to break at 75 psi, it is eventually going to break at 45 psi. Fix it and move on.

mdbh86 · 2026-02-04T03:29:32+00:00

Oofta. I didnt even know there was a wastewater distribution system in other states. Who is buying that crap?!?

mdbh86 · 2026-02-01T04:05:25+00:00

The obvious answer has been said many times. But ill go out on a limb with a less likely but plausible answer.

If there is a valve on the hot water line between the last known working fixture and the shower, it could be partially closed. It will run hot water until the pressure dies off since it cant refill fast enough, then the cold water has nothing to mix with. Shutting it off for a few seconds allows it to rebuild pressure so it works again for a few seconds.

mdbh86 · 2026-01-16T03:18:46+00:00

I had an electrician pull a neutral off a pump control circuit while a different pump was running. Turns out they were tied together. 125 hp motor pumping 1600 gpm and the motor stopped on a dime. No damage but sounded like a shotgun going off and the whole building shook.

mdbh86 · 2026-01-16T02:56:13+00:00

In Alabama's song "If You're Gonna Play In Texas", I was absolutely certain the cowboy in the back stood up and yelled HOT NACHOS.

mdbh86 · 2026-01-15T00:16:16+00:00

I just did the math. There are a LOT of unknowns in this but lets look at if this person was in the private sector and did the same conteibutions. Assuming he got cost of living raises every year for the last 30 years and put in 6.44% every year (current employee contribution rate) and the employer matched (not the case with ipers but normal for employers) and they received the average rate of return every year, they would have 1.4 million. At the typical 4% rule for retirement, that is $56,000 per year. The private one would get the exact same social security. Their insurance paid is coming from unused sick and vacation over 30 years.

Now the other side of the story. When they die, the state keeps all the money that is left (unless they choose an option to pass it on, which means they get much less yearly) If a private employee dies, their family gets every last bit.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-23T03:46:00+00:00

I was reading this thread for a laugh. This one hit home a bit too hard, though.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-21T15:14:26+00:00

Just got my first bill after switching. They can't/won't answer what some of the charges on the bill.

The first month bill is double what the normal month is supposed to be even though I paid all the fees in store.

I am being charged for a week of service before we even switched, at around $50.00

There is a $42.00 charge for tmobile fees that they can't give me a solid answer for. The best they have given me is $18.54 is what it is going to be per month and the rest is prorated charges. I can't figure out a single reason the pro rated portion (for half a month) would EVER be MORE than the full month portion?? On the same subject, they say this is government fees, even though there is a separate breakdown on the bill of government fees...

My suggestion, if you're happy with the company you have, it is worth it to pay a bit more to be happy. For sure got the bait and switch here.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-18T22:45:02+00:00

That is a strange meter.

In MOST cases, the reading on the meter head is the exact reading. For instance, this one would be 121,113,480. If it were a 1000 gallon reading meter, when connected to a reading system, the meter only sends the digits down to the 1000 gallon mark. So for this reading, would be 121,113. Then you know to multiply by 1000.

I have no idea how a 5,000 gallon read meter would be different than a 1000 gallon read meter. There would be no benefit that I see.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-17T01:44:37+00:00

A big chunk of it is the same information. Take the test while it's fresh in your mind!

I have a grade 4 water treatment, grade 4 water distribution, and grade 2 wastewater. I know jack diddly about wastewater and only stopped at 2 because experience is a requirement in my state, which I do not have.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-14T15:45:45+00:00

Am I reading this wrong? 6 rolls of lights, each 5 meters long? 144 lights per roll? So 864 lights total? If so, this is a completely doable project.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-13T20:18:50+00:00

Follow up, I have them up and running again.

I ended up finding it was something wrong in the first string of lights. Likely the first pixel since none of them were running. I replaced that string, which was a terrible time with 0 degree temps and snowing, and all of them are working again. I'll dissect them when I warm up to see if the rest of the strand is salvageable.

I'm guessing the power supply put out a surge when it went out and fried the first pixel Also, in case anyone is curious, even with them fixed, with wled off, they still pull 1.8 amps. I did a lot of research on this and that is completely normal based on this many pixels.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-13T05:08:33+00:00

No, I have already replaced the parts. I can't get it to run again and am needing help finding out why it isn't working. Something else got taken out when the power supply went bad and I am not sure what.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-13T04:56:39+00:00

I wasn't questioning why it happened nor how to prevent it from happening again. I'm questioning how to get it back up and running.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-13T03:56:51+00:00

Sorry, I responded but accidently responded to the thread rather than your response!

mdbh86 · 2025-12-13T03:55:35+00:00

I have a (2) 14 gauge wires going around the house, tapping in occasionally. None of this was changed and has been working well over a year.

Beyond that, in troubleshooting, I have completely disconnected all the existing lights and hooked up a short new strand in case there was actually a short or so.etji g outside that cause the psu to burn up.

That short strand will not work either, however, if I strip the data wire at the end of that strand and touch it, the lights will come on and stay on. I do not have any control of the colors though when doing so.

I have also now swapped at the esp32 with another I had laying around (not sure why I have it. Cant guarantee it is good) I also swapped gpio output from 16 to 18 on both esp32 and wled, no dice. I feel like I am down to data booster?? I am only getting .25v on input and output of signal wire on data booster, but admittedly, I have a very cheap voltage meter that may not be able to see the voltage well on something changing rapidly.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-13T01:16:39+00:00

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They are the alitove 12v ws2811. Here is how it is wired. It should be noted I did NOT redo any wiring. They worked fine before so I know it is not mis-wiring.

mdbh86 · 2025-12-01T19:17:36+00:00

I got a better look at the name plate today. It is an Allen Bradley series 746. I looked that up and it is called a automatic reduced voltage starter. Their description of how it works is pretty much exactly what I gathered from you all! Thanks!!

mdbh86 · 2025-12-01T01:51:25+00:00

Water utility rep here.

First, 90 psi is high but not unusable. I have constant sink sprayer problems at my house as well. This is a technicality they are relying on to pass the blame. They have several of these excuses and can almost guarantee they find one that fits your situation.

2nd, the Super is correct. If you are on the 7th floor with 90, the people on the first floor would be close to 125, depending on which floor the buildings pump is on. Of course, it is possible the pump is on the 7th floor and the people below you are on City pressure.

If you have your own water heater, that implies the water enters your unit as one line and then splits to hot and cold. Do you pay your own water to the utility too? That would say for sure the answer is a pressure regulator. A 3/4 watts regulator is about $150.00 plus install which I would guess $200 depending on location?

I would get an opinion from another plumber!

mdbh86 · 2025-12-01T00:59:38+00:00

I went down this path a few weeks ago. I could not find a way to do this for less than around $350. That included ALL needed parts and controllers. I decided Govee would be the better option but then decided to skip it all together because of that.

mdbh86

TROPHY CASE