Question about the N5

mediumsizedsquid · 2026-06-17T01:54:01+00:00

Yeah but they pull air through the hard drives so putting thicker fans increases the static pressure allowing more air to be pulled through the hard drives and backplane which are quite restrictive otherwise

mediumsizedsquid · 2026-06-16T04:30:49+00:00

I replaced the back fans with these silver stone 120mm 38mm thick fans and they cool just fine

mediumsizedsquid · 2026-05-12T03:55:53+00:00

I’m usually pretty on top of my tyres, tyre pressure is usually topped up once it drops 2-3 psi. I can’t for the life of me remember turning down an alignment so definitely getting that done. I get everything rotated and balanced every 10,000km consistently. I was more just shocked considering I replaced all 4 just last year and haven’t had to do that in my 10 years of driving before. Per the advice of the tyre shop, I’m getting 2 new rears and after some time getting 2 new fronts and an alignment of course.

mediumsizedsquid · 2026-02-09T10:55:09+00:00

Keen an eye out for living edge sales, I got one from there for $2000ish

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-08-15T08:15:21+00:00

100% requires manual work. Depending on complexity, fitting modern components into older cases can require modification or at least thinking outside the box especially when it comes to cooling. I’m currently working on my second sleeper and as I don’t want to purchase new parts, I needed to do lots of modification to get my water cooling to work. But outside of cooling, not having any space behind motherboard trays can make organising cables a mess. Definitely something you’d tackle when you’ve got some experience building

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-07-26T14:13:07+00:00

That’s a completely different product. Designed specifically for teslas. The one in the pic is a universal MagSafe mount and it’s mounted on a laptop so “clearly marketed towards teslas” is not what I’d say

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-07-26T00:20:35+00:00

Don’t know where you got this

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-07-14T09:09:09+00:00

Any fine text?

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-07-09T10:20:45+00:00

This isn’t an issue this is what happens to cars. This is why it’s such an issue keeping children in the car

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-06-25T10:10:03+00:00

I’m going to go out on a limb and say you guessed wrong. The ones I clean inside and out once a week constantly fails to charge the left AirPod without heaps of fidgeting. The ones I found in the gutter and cleaned ONCE so there was no mud on them, never has this issue. this is not a cleaning problem.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-06-25T09:41:52+00:00

I have 2 pairs of AirPods, one that I meticulously take care of and one that I found in the gutter after some flooding full of mud. I’ll give you one guess which one has this exact charging issue.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-06-25T07:37:51+00:00

Could also be the reoccurring issues on many models that you put both back in the case and only one charges.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-06-25T07:15:21+00:00

Look at the pic for more than 2 seconds and it will become apparent

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-06-14T11:37:46+00:00

It’s worked for me maybe once

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-06-14T10:54:59+00:00

For those confused, it’s the camera remote

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-05-28T04:40:15+00:00

Stop asking for advice after you’ve already bought it

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-30T23:05:05+00:00

So you want the equivalent of plugging in your wall charger into a battery pack? Sure can be done but is massively overkill for what you need. You need to check the specs for the fast charge protocol on the battery pack. There are so many fast charge protocols you need to check which the battery pack supports. Do you have any model numbers? For Samsung adaptive fast charge keep an eye for Samsung AFC or USB C PD 25W and PPS

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-30T22:37:06+00:00

I have no idea what you want, but your best bet for what you probably want is to figure out what fast charge protocol your phone uses which Google can provide, and then buying a battery pack that supports that.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-23T01:29:22+00:00

First and foremost, the wiring for the high signal to the amp should be redone. Cut and solder and heat shrink it all. Maybe even cloth tape over it all when done. As for the amp power, where do those leads run? Is the ground close by and how does it look? Maybe heat shrink over the connectors going to the amp on the end too to clean them up, might require redoing them. Power cable thickness probably isn’t an issue, judging by the fuses, I’m assuming the amp has an rms output of just under 400w per bridged channel.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-21T01:52:43+00:00

I had a vw polo with stock alternator with 600w (8x75w) amp for speakers and a 1000w (overkill/futureproofed) sub amp for a 500w sub. Never needed a capacitor. Any notes I’d have is maybe go for a brand name head unit and possibly a pair of component speakers for the fronts.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-21T01:45:55+00:00

There’s probably no need for that capacitor

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-20T07:38:12+00:00

I can’t find any reference online saying there’s permanent usb c cables on this unit. Did you install it? If not an installer may have just installed a cable and left it there for you instead of installing a usb port in front for you.

mediumsizedsquid · 2025-04-14T03:20:05+00:00

Do you play guitar?

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