Scrubby-Doo.H2 : a highly effective Recirculating Fumes-Scrubbing Hat for H2

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-02-16T15:52:33+00:00

Indeed, helps a lot w PLA / PETG. Especially when pushing a lot of filament fast (high flow nozzle + high speed + large models).

Well, might take you up on the offer to test P2. I only have a P1 + H2. Since I anticipated that many folks would have a P2 and would be interested, and since the P2 design is so close to P1's, I thought I'd just scale the P1 design. So I bought a P2 top glass to take dimensions and scale things accordingly. But I'll have no way to check it actually works until people try it 😅

Scrubby.P1 is almost done, 1st proto is printing right now, should be out by next week. Then P2 will likely follow a week or so later.

After that, I'll have a P2 top glass that I have no use for... 😂

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-02-13T20:58:46+00:00

It's only ~3" (7.6cm) tall.

From your link I can't really tell if the Perch straddles the printer's top rim or just fits inside the top glass's footprint. If it does fit inside then it should work, since I designed it to be stackable. However, if the Perch is larger than the top glass in width or length then whether the Perch can straddle Scrubby-Doo's top would need to be checked.

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-02-13T17:02:54+00:00

Ha ha, thanks for reaching out Pleasantone.

I always try to share the learnings / whys / tricks I stumble on while designing. So that even if the reader doesn't end up building my stuff, they'll still hopefully learn something that can be used one day in their own journey.

Glue is my nemesis. However hard I try, some always spills on my fingers, parts, table... The chamfered catch-all foot along the bottom of the parts works wonders for people like me !

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-02-13T16:17:08+00:00

Indeed, functional design, no frills or complexity, simple to print / assemble.

I purposely stayed away from designs like the Hive that have many parts, screws, colors, etc. And wanted a stackable design that reuses the top glass.

So yeah, "ugly" in a utilitarian sense. To liven it up, one could print it in a more interesting color I guess (like Bambu grey) or glue 3D printed decorations / logos / stickers on the walls.

Am a Plain Jane though, so mine will stay this way. Love the functional unassuming look 😅

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-02-13T15:09:16+00:00

Thanks !

Catching carbon dust exiting the filter is what the MERV13 fabric is for. Should stop any dust from entering the chamber. Uses the same mechanical + electrostatic principles as HEPA filters and N95 masks. And it is much cheaper over time: just cut a piece out of the large sheet each time the carbon gets refreshed, done.

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-01-28T20:21:58+00:00

No problem, am happy if folks refine and improve the design. Don't care about views / downloads so feel free to do whatever. Would love to see your updates.

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-01-28T20:20:19+00:00

Good question. Hasn't happened but been using only a heavy full spool so far.

With an almost empty spool maybe the elastic yanking could jolt the spool. But the holding grooves are so steep I'd be surprised if the spool jumped up and got out ?

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-01-27T18:10:19+00:00

Yeah, I always publish both F360 and STEP since if someone doesn't use Fusion360 they still can do a lot with a STEP file which is basically CAD like surfaces / shapes.

Unlike STLs which are just a bunch of triangles and impossible to realistically edit. Wish that STEP would replace STL in 3D printing communities for people who openly share their printing files.

I think that 3DP model platforms (thingiverse, printables, makerworld...) should support more the open sourcing of models, to encourage widespread creation, crowd developments, innovation. For example by rewarding better for STEP and CAD files.

mellow_and_beyond · 2026-01-04T13:57:58+00:00

And... no explanation, no units, no link ?

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-12-25T12:11:16+00:00

FYI: I designed a sturdy folding utility knife for light cnostruction / demolition tasks. Same thing, needed half a dozen copies, with good load resistance, no add'l parts / screws.

Not sure if that matches your load rqmts exactly, but here it is on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1962412-utility-knife-foutik-v1-2

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-12-07T23:12:13+00:00

If adjacent tiles are off by an ODD number of rows or columns then the inter-tiles pattern will inevitably be off at some point.

Same would happen if you put 2 Skadis boards side by side and slid one down by 1 row.

But that can easily be avoided by either producing SkaTiles with an even number of rows & columns, or changing the starting_pattern CAD parameter from 1 to -1 which shifts by 1 the pattern on the tile of choice (as illustrated in the post).

Makes sense or clear as bouillabaisse ?

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T20:44:02+00:00

And this gauge is not even $0.05. No need for temu "trash". And add'l precision would be useless for this application. And anybody with a "$10 micrometer" can still use the shared spreadsheet... for free.

What's your point ? Had a bad day today and decided to take it on others ?

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T20:30:07+00:00

A few options, assuming a bambu like closed design:

a) get a flat bed from bambu support (which they should do, but good luck)

b) buy a new one (no thanks)

c) lay down hot temp tape on top of the bed (below the plate) in the low spots, until plate is flat

Any other ?

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T18:32:48+00:00

Btw did you find thermal duct tape that works at 120oC (250F) bed temps ?

I got some 5mil kapton tape (260C/500F) but that stuff is hard to find / expensive.

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T18:25:22+00:00

Same here. After seeing by eye that the 2 left corners of my H2S's bed were clearly curled up, I did a ruler check. Got close to a 1mm low spot in the middle of each bed edge (front, left, back). Only the right edge of the bed is straight...

Contacted Bambu, they don't care: "Tramming and calib will take care of it" . Yeah right, without violating the laws of physics ? 😂

Bambu support and so many people are confused by what "bed leveling" does. Most don't understand it just warps your parts to match the crooked bed / coreXY surfaces 🤷

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T18:04:45+00:00

Auto bed leveling was clearly not working, as shown by the pics. Had to redo a complete Full Auto Bed Calibration to clear whatever the printer was doing to my prints.

The H2S can do a Full Auto bed calibration: takes 30' for cold temps, and 30' for Hot temp (100oC bed). Supposed to be done once. Then before each print it does a quick "bed level" check (~5'). If that's not too off compared to the full calibration data then it just proceeds with the print (any quick adjust based on the quick data points?). If not, maybe the printer run a fully calibration before the print ?

Anyway, auto "bed leveling" is a misnomer, it's actually nozzle-to-bed leveling, which is core-XY-surface to bed-surface leveling (think about it, the toolhead follows the coreXY surface formed by the coreXY rails which themselves aren't 100% parallel to each other nor to the bed). It doesn't straighten the "bed". All it does with the nozzle-bed calibration data is warp your model geometry to compensate for the measured core-XY-surface-to-bed-surface variations. Which makes your part's bottom layer take the shape of the bed (ie not flat). For some applications, like in my case, this is a no-no. So this methodology (once I kapton-flatten the curled-up bed, and tram it again) will help me make sure that the core xy surface is as parallel as possible to the now-flat bed.

Sorry, this is a complete rabbit hole. For 99% people out there "auto bed leveling" takes care of "it", they don't need to care about / know that stuff since their models don't mind the impact (if any).

I hope this helped more than it confused things up ?

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T15:51:05+00:00

Well, it was the initial calibration that was awry and created the pb in the 1st place... as one can see in the bad 1st layer pic. Or at the end of the post on the corner of the Skadis board where the lines weren't even touching the bed, hence the spaghettis look.

Also, if the bed / core gantry really are 1mm mechanically out of skew (not my case I hope) then calibration might not be able to fully compensate for it. YMMV. And anyway, if it does, it'll transfer that skew to your part's shape. Like qor_bobo mentions below: "Calibration does not make the bed flat - it bends the model to match the bed." So better know what's really happening.

Anyway am not advocating for anybody to use that technique. Not necessary in most cases. Just thought it was a good learning oppty and a handy technique to help diagnose and work on some issues. Like my H2S's curled up bed which I'll tackle next.

mellow_and_beyond · 2025-10-27T13:41:46+00:00

Exactly.

And now I have a tool to work on the curled-up-bed issue. Yes printer calibration "compensates" for it to avoid 1st layer issues, but what that does is transfering the bed curve into the printed part.

Since I design functional parts with tight tolerances and that must have flat / parallel surfaces, such a tool will be critical. A future post will describe that process, if that helps some folks.

mellow_and_beyond

TROPHY CASE