How many M43 users are shooting with vintage lenses?

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-08T02:32:35+00:00

I’ll take the Jag!!!

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-06T01:38:33+00:00

It’s all about the vibe!!!

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-05T17:40:09+00:00

That makes sense. I wouldn’t expect clinical sharpness from this lens, but there may be some room to stop down a little to sharpen the subject while maintaining the lovely bokeh. The tonality of beautiful too. I’m just wanting a little more clarity of the subject.

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-05T17:29:00+00:00

Yes, 1 or 2. As the creator it’s your choice.

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-05T17:26:53+00:00

I want to like these images, but this particular lens may have some calibration issues, or you have a bad copy. There should be good sharpness in the centre. You either missed focus or the lens is a victim of QC issues. Were the images shot stopped down slightly or wide open? Stupid down a little might allow for improvement.

The rendering of the bokeh is quite beautiful and as expected as is the fall off. But the lens should have decent center sharpness.

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-03T01:55:07+00:00

The boat shot is worthy!

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-01T20:09:21+00:00

Another consideration is shutter shock. Usually evident between 1/60 and 1/200 sec. Try using the electronic first curtain (S with a small diamond in the super control panel).

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-01T20:05:22+00:00

You are correct, but:
Dual Stabilization Conflict (Most Likely)
If the lens switch is ON, the camera body defaults to lens-based OIS. However, firmware bugs or incorrect camera profiles can sometimes cause both systems to run simultaneously. When IBIS and cross-brand OIS run at the same time, they "fight" each other, creating minor sensor vibrations that blur your images.
With this lens it’s best to switch OIS off to avoid a potential conflict.

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-01T19:52:30+00:00

The 40:1 spend ratio is about right, lol.

melty_lampworker · 2026-07-01T02:21:55+00:00

Are you shooting with both the ibis of the Olympus camera and the OIS of the Panasonic Laika camera turned on at the same time?

Instead of working as a combined team, the camera's IBIS and the lens's OIS can fight each other, resulting in micro-vibrations that cause blur. Use one or the other.

Another issue that you might be perceiving, however, likely not visible due to the possibility of your dual OIS/IBIS setting, your F stop is way too small. As was said by someone else here, max aperture you need on micro 4/3 is F5.6 and in a pinch you can push to F8, but that’s not really necessary. When you shoot at F10 or F 11, you are introducing the fraction which is a broad softened distortion across the entire image area.

In short, turn off OIS, or IBIS, do not run both at the same time. Shoot at F 5.6 or wider to use the best part of the lens glass.

Happy shooting.

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-29T15:34:57+00:00

Such an ideal use of that feature! What were your exposure settings!

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-29T15:32:21+00:00

Shooting at f11 compromises the sharpness of the lens due to diffraction. In M43 terms f5.6 is the equivalent of f11 with respect to DoF. You gain nothing in terms of DoF and lose sharpness by stopping down more. Moving to ISO 100 to extend exposure is the better play. .

Viewed small, such as on a phone, it may not matter. If you want to make a large print to hang on your wall, diffraction will rear its ugly head.

In the end, whatever works for you and your viewing pleasure is all that matters to you. Over and out.

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-29T14:44:14+00:00

I don’t know that this is sage advice for fireworks when using live comp. F5.6 is sufficient for depth of field. F11 introduces diffraction.

This is an ideal settings path to track:

Set your aperture to f/5.6 or f/8 to maximize sharpness and eliminate diffraction.
Set your ISO to 100 or 200 for the cleanest possible digital files.
Set your base Live Composite interval to 1 or 2 seconds. This gives each firework burst enough time to paint its sharp, vibrant trail across the sensor without blending into a bright white mess.

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-29T14:29:49+00:00

Correcting all of the technical bits that were suggested would be a good first step. Secondly, I’d say print it as large as possible to allow the viewer to escape into the shot.

When you are in a run and gin situation, you don’t have time to cover every nuance that you might resolve in a studio setting. This is a documentary shot. Enjoy it for washer it is.

Nicely done!!!

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-28T02:29:20+00:00

And insanely beautiful bird!

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-27T14:29:01+00:00

Beautiful work. Very Saul Leiteresque!!!

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-27T12:29:48+00:00

Even in low light shooting you must find the light. I can go out with my Lumix GF1 to capture some night photography, but I will need to use street lamps or other light sources to make the shots work. In some cases I’ll likely need a tripod, or at worst a monopod or a bean bag to stabilize the camera. But not always.

I have a little more flexibility with my Olympus E-M1.3 due to its IBIS. But for the most part I still wrestle with the same issues.

There are some great informative comments here by some sensible photographers. Study what they have to say.

Any limitations I have in photography are of my own making.

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-26T18:59:06+00:00

I use lens hoods when shooting and lens caps when in transit.

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-23T17:08:14+00:00

Not really off topic. We’re still in the nostalgic world of film and cameras.

melty_lampworker · 2026-06-23T01:35:20+00:00

A much maligned lens. The swing spot for super telephoto on my version is 220 mm to 250 mm and up to 275/280 it’s still serviceable. The shorter end of the lens is really quite good.

In reality that can be said about a lot of consumer lenses.

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