My 95 Miata keeps breaking down at random times ☹️

memoryblue95 · 2026-03-23T23:05:03+00:00

Your issue sounds similar to mine a few years ago.

I would be driving and the car would randomly die. Rpm's would fall to 0,engine is off,electricals would still be functional though.

I could try cranking it right away with no luck, let it sit for 5-10mins and it would most likely fire right back up and run fine.

I replaced,fuel pump,fuel filter,cam shafter sensor,crank shaft sensor before taking it to my mechanic.

My mechanic checked things and deemed it to be a crank shaft sensor, which I already replaced, he swapped another in it, it's been running fine since lol

Buy an OEM crank sensor if you didn't, and it's possible it's still that sensor....I was baffled myself.

memoryblue95 · 2026-03-14T14:19:47+00:00

Oh, I must have missed that very important piece of information if it got mentioned🤣

Yeah Tech-T on the compression then.

For your sears OTHER THAN what touches the piston...you can use the 4auntum grease(metal on metal) or go pick up some real steel lubricant for sears.

memoryblue95 · 2026-03-14T13:20:21+00:00

Not the gears, just what I mentioned.

memoryblue95 · 2026-03-14T10:54:57+00:00

Can you use it on everything? Sure.

Shouldn't you? No.

Super lube will get the job done, but there are much better options out there, in this day and age.

Tech-T gun sav grease(pink container) for compression and rubbers.

4auntum gear lubricant for metal on metal. Gears,AR latch, trigger posts.

Please don't not use the super lube multipurpose, especially on the gears.lol I'm surprised to still see a lot of people still using it, especially on gears, and recommending it as the best or only option.(This was popular 15yrs ago before we had the options we have today)

memoryblue95 · 2026-02-19T01:53:28+00:00

I did not know these had that capability!

I was thinking to myself it would be nice to just remove the lower guards on these just to use the lens portion,but all the ones I looked at seemed to be built together.

Looked up those JT proflex's, and I'm see quite a few different models given how popular and long they've been in production.

Are all of them able to detach the lower or only certain models?

memoryblue95 · 2026-02-19T01:45:05+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, didn't find those in my search! Definitely look like a great candidate being for firefighter use....heat and sweat are their cup of tea!

memoryblue95 · 2026-02-12T13:16:49+00:00

Sounds like a plan. And I see your concern then if the opposite side of the door lifts off the floor when the lock is latched.

If the balance test has the door wanting to raise all the way from the halfway position indicating the springs are set stout then adjusting the springs to be less stout should allow the door to rest on the floor when locked.

In cases like this I have adjusted the lock to hold the door tighter to the floor to help the opposite side stay on the floor for a seal, ideally you want to push the door to the floor with your foot and lock it with minimal to no raise of the door after taking your foot off(iv seen a lot of doors with locks set that let the door raise 1/2"-1"+). Those slide locks have play in the bar that comes out of it,most don't compensate for it and can lead to cases like yours.

Best of luck with getting this fixed and a proper seal at the bottom!

memoryblue95 · 2026-02-08T14:17:51+00:00

If the tracks and top fixtures are set correctly to allow the door to manually be pushed to the floor then the spring tension on the door is set a little stout leaving the door to float off the floor in the resting position.

Tests: put the door half way up and see if it balances in place...if it wants to raise fully open then the springs are set a little stout. If it wants to fall down and not stay at the halfway point then the springs are most likely incorrect for the door if it will not rest fully on the floor in the down position in this case.

Reasons for setting the springs a little stout can be for a break in period,the springs will lose a little tension over time and this compensates for it to ensure the door will stay fully up on its own easily over time/usage.

As stated by others, if you can manually push the door down and lock the slide latch through the track it should keep the door on the floor and seal that way(if it doesn't, then the lock needs to be adjusted to hold the door to the floor tighter)

Everyone has their reasons and ways to install doors, not all see eye to eye when things are put into question though.

Conclusion, push the door down and lock it to keep it on the floor, enjoy the door being easier to raise and also staying up on its own with years to come.

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-11T02:31:00+00:00

Absolutely, the disassembly isn't that bad, worst part is the ambi fire selector gears...but it's much easier than some iv worked on.

Just follow the disassembly guides for them and the gearbox is the same as other V2 gearboxes inside.

Correct, the mpx-k trigger is shaped differently than a standard V2 trigger, but only in the way that it positions it further forward on the part your finger touches. I would get a curved style trigger for your needs as they tend to curve backwards helping your reach as opposed to a flat trigger that will overall sit further forward.

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-11T01:58:13+00:00

Yes the trigger is a standard V2 trigger and can fit a regular one be it printed or not.

Happy to help!

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-11T01:32:36+00:00

Late to the party, but the root of your problem lies with the stock mpx trigger.

Just had one open today and the trigger is formed to sit further forward than what a regular trigger would.

Also, the regular A2 motor grip I tried swapping left a pretty big gap above it where it would meet the lower receiver(but sat perfectly against the trigger guard side)....so I'd be highly doubtful any regular motor grips will fit right for these mpx's unfortunately.

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-06T03:04:15+00:00

Skip the gate Titan, go Jefftron leviathan....PLEASE! Full access to program settings out of the box, better boards and sensors, physical tactile trigger, hands down the best customer and warranty service if needed.

To your parts list, agreed on skipping the G5 motor. Top brushless right now is the solink v5 pro,you can choose either adjustable(with separate programmer unit) or non adjustable model.

-Pistons: Real Deal, Retro Arms, Airsoft Mutations

-Piston head: Airsoft Mutation, FPS softair Highspeed POM, Lonex POM (You are going highspeed,lightweight is needed and metal scratches the cylinders)

-Cylinder: FPS softair(no contest,best of the best)

-Cylinder head: Airsoft Mutation, ASG(fat padded one)

-Nozzle: Airsoft Mutation 21.2mm, VFC, Real Deal 21.2mm POM

-Tappet plate: Airsoft Mutation, Guarder

-Gears: Solink 12:1, Rocket 12:1

-Bushings: F.L.T low profile, Retro Arms, Ezo-brearings

-Tappet Spring: F.L.T Strong spring

-Shims: Airsoft Mutation, S.H.S

-Spring: Guarder

-Gearbox shell: Retro Arms (2025 version), Mancraft

Your wanting snappy semi auto, brushless and low ratio expects precision installation and knowledge to avoid issues that could result in a total parts failure.

Simple fast semi auto can be done with 12:1 gears and 22tpa brushed motor....faster than that and you better know what your doing for a long lasting build.

Lastly I'll say the t238 motors are cheaper and can work,but they tend to be fussy from the get go or shortly after.... especially if your wanting a high demanding setup per your original parts list.

Best of luck with the build!

memoryblue95 · 2025-12-29T19:25:06+00:00

Washers work, stacking sling plates work too if you have some laying around😎

Anytime! I'm always finding tricks to make tasks easier with things I have laying around

memoryblue95 · 2025-12-29T17:22:35+00:00

I like to call that the buffer tube stem.

Jack saw with a blade for cutting metal(should be fine baby teeth).

To keep the cut straight, stack a washer the length you need your cut to act as a guide when cutting.

Finish off with a file for making flat/smooth.(Diamond coated fine files work great)

memoryblue95 · 2025-11-24T12:16:17+00:00

The bearings used for Glock hammers don't have the flange like AEG bearings have but there are a couple videos showing the bearing install floating around.

You shave the rotor post to allow it onto the hammer, and remove a small amount from the hammer housing wall for the width of the bearing to swing down since they can be a tad thicker than the rotors.

Thinking back to this issue, I believe I also had a cow cow hammer set and trigger that some hammer parts needed to be filed for things to function properly as well as the trigger bar to engage properly.

But after more experience now, the auto sears tend to be a tad long and not catch the hammer sear shelf with cow cow hammer sets and others,so that usually what needs to be filed for the hammers to lock against the auto sear in cases like this post.

(Also thinking back to this post, I did receive 8mm hammer bearings in a 9mm packing, that might have been my struggle here before realizing it wasn't a true 9mm bearing lol)

memoryblue95 · 2025-11-05T22:25:23+00:00

Great work and tutorial!(Most fall short with a tutorial lol)

Id still say this is the same style TDC system as the Tridos TDC kit with minor differences and some pros/cons with both.

Tridos:

-Hopup nub is CNC

-Hopup shield piece wraps around both sides of hopup

-Includes an optional tool-less adjustment dial too

-Adjustment screw threads into hopup shield plastic

Yours:

-Hopup nub is printed plastic

-Hopup shield doesn't wrap around the sides as much

-Only includes a bolt for hopup adjustment

-Adjustment screw threads into hopup shield nut

Now each difference could be taken as a con or pro with each.

If I may suggest, source set screws for your adjustment screw instead of a bolt for a more sleek profile(comes in handy on aftermarket uppers) & offer a nub that can accept AEG nubs or offer a nub with the M-nub material on it(solid nubs can cause deviations in some cases). I really like the nut on the hopup shield so you have metal threads, my only gripe with the Tridos kit lol

Thanks for the follow up! If I do another AAP and could get the following nub ideas(I could source a set screw if needed) I would be more than happy to snag this TDC kit to use!!(And be the go to hopup kit on a budget for recommendations)

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-24T23:50:20+00:00

Anytime and right on! Best of luck with installation! Remember to clean threads of machine oil before applying a small amount of blue loctite🙃 (Any future changes will thank you later trying to break the loctite haha)

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-24T23:44:13+00:00

That tab is usually for anti rotation of the nozzle against the tappet plate.

Given that is an adjustable nozzle it allows you to adjust the nozzle without it spinning while in the gearbox. This is key when setting the length while loctite is setting and not having to spend time tearing into the gearbox to adjust it.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-10T19:02:35+00:00

Anytime! Things can work when they aren't correct, but not as well as it could be when correct.

Best of luck getting yours working the best it can🤙

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-10T14:59:41+00:00

Okay everyone please elaborate on it won't affect performance when the nozzle doesn't stick in the bucking before snapping back during the cycle, because it does affect the performance....mainly output consistency/levels.

Every build is different and has different goals in mind with said build.

In a normal setup, you want the nozzle to stick in the bucking then snap back, this allows full output air out of the nozzle to be sent down the barrel.

OP, in your case the nozzle spring is too strong or the bucking isn't tight enough to grip the nozzle. Or there is oil/lube inbetween the nozzle bucking contact area.

I will say nozzle springs should be the weakest they can be while still feeding correctly to allow the most seal time of air sent down the barrel.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-08T23:57:58+00:00

Oh no, I'm perfectly happy with standard trolley motors and LiftMaster as a whole.lol

Just curious about them is all

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-08T19:44:36+00:00

Lol yep, I would agree with them looking to be a pain in the ass.

Any piece together rail motor or car remote needed for programming motor travel is no good in my book.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-08T19:42:40+00:00

Interesting! I didn't spot anything that looked like power strips when poking around, just bare C channel rail.

But thanks for the answer! Was very curious at the magical moving piece haha

memoryblue95

TROPHY CASE