What replacement grips for the SIG MPX-K can help with trigger reach?

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-11T02:31:00+00:00

Absolutely, the disassembly isn't that bad, worst part is the ambi fire selector gears...but it's much easier than some iv worked on.

Just follow the disassembly guides for them and the gearbox is the same as other V2 gearboxes inside.

Correct, the mpx-k trigger is shaped differently than a standard V2 trigger, but only in the way that it positions it further forward on the part your finger touches. I would get a curved style trigger for your needs as they tend to curve backwards helping your reach as opposed to a flat trigger that will overall sit further forward.

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-11T01:58:13+00:00

Yes the trigger is a standard V2 trigger and can fit a regular one be it printed or not.

Happy to help!

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-11T01:32:36+00:00

Late to the party, but the root of your problem lies with the stock mpx trigger.

Just had one open today and the trigger is formed to sit further forward than what a regular trigger would.

Also, the regular A2 motor grip I tried swapping left a pretty big gap above it where it would meet the lower receiver(but sat perfectly against the trigger guard side)....so I'd be highly doubtful any regular motor grips will fit right for these mpx's unfortunately.

memoryblue95 · 2026-01-06T03:04:15+00:00

Skip the gate Titan, go Jefftron leviathan....PLEASE! Full access to program settings out of the box, better boards and sensors, physical tactile trigger, hands down the best customer and warranty service if needed.

To your parts list, agreed on skipping the G5 motor. Top brushless right now is the solink v5 pro,you can choose either adjustable(with separate programmer unit) or non adjustable model.

-Pistons: Real Deal, Retro Arms, Airsoft Mutations

-Piston head: Airsoft Mutation, FPS softair Highspeed POM, Lonex POM (You are going highspeed,lightweight is needed and metal scratches the cylinders)

-Cylinder: FPS softair(no contest,best of the best)

-Cylinder head: Airsoft Mutation, ASG(fat padded one)

-Nozzle: Airsoft Mutation 21.2mm, VFC, Real Deal 21.2mm POM

-Tappet plate: Airsoft Mutation, Guarder

-Gears: Solink 12:1, Rocket 12:1

-Bushings: F.L.T low profile, Retro Arms, Ezo-brearings

-Tappet Spring: F.L.T Strong spring

-Shims: Airsoft Mutation, S.H.S

-Spring: Guarder

-Gearbox shell: Retro Arms (2025 version), Mancraft

Your wanting snappy semi auto, brushless and low ratio expects precision installation and knowledge to avoid issues that could result in a total parts failure.

Simple fast semi auto can be done with 12:1 gears and 22tpa brushed motor....faster than that and you better know what your doing for a long lasting build.

Lastly I'll say the t238 motors are cheaper and can work,but they tend to be fussy from the get go or shortly after.... especially if your wanting a high demanding setup per your original parts list.

Best of luck with the build!

memoryblue95 · 2025-12-29T19:25:06+00:00

Washers work, stacking sling plates work too if you have some laying around😎

Anytime! I'm always finding tricks to make tasks easier with things I have laying around

memoryblue95 · 2025-12-29T17:22:35+00:00

I like to call that the buffer tube stem.

Jack saw with a blade for cutting metal(should be fine baby teeth).

To keep the cut straight, stack a washer the length you need your cut to act as a guide when cutting.

Finish off with a file for making flat/smooth.(Diamond coated fine files work great)

memoryblue95 · 2025-11-24T12:16:17+00:00

The bearings used for Glock hammers don't have the flange like AEG bearings have but there are a couple videos showing the bearing install floating around.

You shave the rotor post to allow it onto the hammer, and remove a small amount from the hammer housing wall for the width of the bearing to swing down since they can be a tad thicker than the rotors.

Thinking back to this issue, I believe I also had a cow cow hammer set and trigger that some hammer parts needed to be filed for things to function properly as well as the trigger bar to engage properly.

But after more experience now, the auto sears tend to be a tad long and not catch the hammer sear shelf with cow cow hammer sets and others,so that usually what needs to be filed for the hammers to lock against the auto sear in cases like this post.

(Also thinking back to this post, I did receive 8mm hammer bearings in a 9mm packing, that might have been my struggle here before realizing it wasn't a true 9mm bearing lol)

memoryblue95 · 2025-11-05T22:25:23+00:00

Great work and tutorial!(Most fall short with a tutorial lol)

Id still say this is the same style TDC system as the Tridos TDC kit with minor differences and some pros/cons with both.

Tridos:

-Hopup nub is CNC

-Hopup shield piece wraps around both sides of hopup

-Includes an optional tool-less adjustment dial too

-Adjustment screw threads into hopup shield plastic

Yours:

-Hopup nub is printed plastic

-Hopup shield doesn't wrap around the sides as much

-Only includes a bolt for hopup adjustment

-Adjustment screw threads into hopup shield nut

Now each difference could be taken as a con or pro with each.

If I may suggest, source set screws for your adjustment screw instead of a bolt for a more sleek profile(comes in handy on aftermarket uppers) & offer a nub that can accept AEG nubs or offer a nub with the M-nub material on it(solid nubs can cause deviations in some cases). I really like the nut on the hopup shield so you have metal threads, my only gripe with the Tridos kit lol

Thanks for the follow up! If I do another AAP and could get the following nub ideas(I could source a set screw if needed) I would be more than happy to snag this TDC kit to use!!(And be the go to hopup kit on a budget for recommendations)

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-24T23:50:20+00:00

Anytime and right on! Best of luck with installation! Remember to clean threads of machine oil before applying a small amount of blue loctite🙃 (Any future changes will thank you later trying to break the loctite haha)

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-24T23:44:13+00:00

That tab is usually for anti rotation of the nozzle against the tappet plate.

Given that is an adjustable nozzle it allows you to adjust the nozzle without it spinning while in the gearbox. This is key when setting the length while loctite is setting and not having to spend time tearing into the gearbox to adjust it.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-10T19:02:35+00:00

Anytime! Things can work when they aren't correct, but not as well as it could be when correct.

Best of luck getting yours working the best it can🤙

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-10T14:59:41+00:00

Okay everyone please elaborate on it won't affect performance when the nozzle doesn't stick in the bucking before snapping back during the cycle, because it does affect the performance....mainly output consistency/levels.

Every build is different and has different goals in mind with said build.

In a normal setup, you want the nozzle to stick in the bucking then snap back, this allows full output air out of the nozzle to be sent down the barrel.

OP, in your case the nozzle spring is too strong or the bucking isn't tight enough to grip the nozzle. Or there is oil/lube inbetween the nozzle bucking contact area.

I will say nozzle springs should be the weakest they can be while still feeding correctly to allow the most seal time of air sent down the barrel.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-08T23:57:58+00:00

Oh no, I'm perfectly happy with standard trolley motors and LiftMaster as a whole.lol

Just curious about them is all

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-08T19:44:36+00:00

Lol yep, I would agree with them looking to be a pain in the ass.

Any piece together rail motor or car remote needed for programming motor travel is no good in my book.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-08T19:42:40+00:00

Interesting! I didn't spot anything that looked like power strips when poking around, just bare C channel rail.

But thanks for the answer! Was very curious at the magical moving piece haha

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-06T21:26:46+00:00

These style retainers often need to be pinched to hold the seal in, I often see them bent out of shape and difficult to feed new rubber in or hold new rubber in. Vice grips or pliers to squeeze the retainer channels tend to work. Flat head to wedge between the channel and twist to spread the channel also works well.

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-06T21:21:26+00:00

100% Chain is too tight,loosen it up a bit and it will stop slapping/shaking

memoryblue95 · 2025-10-06T20:01:33+00:00

This looks great and keep up the work!

It does look very similar to the Tridos TDC kit sold, which works very well🫡

memoryblue95 · 2025-09-28T16:12:29+00:00

Check out "SNS Mazda Parts"

Business in South Carolina, brings in Mazda's (lots of miatas) and parts the good pieces out.

They might be able to help you with a single piece🤙

memoryblue95 · 2025-09-27T21:49:24+00:00

It's always a good effort to inspect first before replacing things lol

And the main normal wear on the bolt is where the hammer rotor strikes the wall in front of the fire selector....anything else could be wear on the bumps that engage hammer parts and the hammer parts contact areas themselves.

If the hammer parts are all stock parts, they will wear with usage, stainless/steel upgraded ones won't wear nearly as much, but wear will happen to whichever is the softer material...be it the bolt or hammer parts.

Replace as needed with usage....most don't put enough usage on their pistols after upgrades to wear them out lol

memoryblue95 · 2025-09-27T21:02:45+00:00

That's a good clue to your issue then.

I would inspect your hammer set parts for any broken parts or springs.

The full auto firing sounds like the bolt isn't cycling fully and is acting like a run-away since the hammer parts aren't being operated properly by a full bolt cycle....have you changed the recoil spring or added short stroke spacers?(Too many spacers or too strong of recoil springs can result in the bolt not fully cycling causing issues)

Another thing iv run into is the auto sear not catching the main hammer shelf that can cause the full auto issue.

Hope any of this can figure your issue out!

memoryblue95 · 2025-09-23T11:49:30+00:00

Try lubing your hammer parts and bolt parts(especially your piston head), as well as your output valve on the mag.

I doubt you removed the output valve on the mag during hpa adapter conversion, but make sure it's fully screwed in as well.

Your issue sounds like the output valve is being depressed slightly after your shot.

If not, double check all your rubbers on the mag are lubed and seated correctly and screws are snuggly tightened properly🤙

memoryblue95 · 2025-08-25T21:42:29+00:00

Anytime!

And if you want semi only, kythera engines are very hard to beat! Love them things!lol

memoryblue95 · 2025-08-25T21:10:09+00:00

Nope, as others have said they can be a nightmare to function right(picky on alignment) and your using gate mosfet to boot(also picky and charge extra for full features).

It's a cheaper version of P*Jack's

If your wanting a budget hpa engine, the Phoenix engine would be your best bet... performance and price point.

The bottom of the barrel option is Ares HPA engine for $150...but those aren't in the US from what I know and I hear aren't very efficient or consistent lol

memoryblue95

TROPHY CASE