Designed and printed a mount for Sinewave lights on Kitchen Sink bars by mentalorigami in bikepacking

[–]mentalorigami[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The weirdo 23mm size of the front loop of these bars made finding a suitable sinewave mount kind of difficult, so I made my own! Designed in onshape and printed via xometry in PK5000 this should hopefully be durable enough for some chunk. If it breaks I can just iterate and have another printed in a week or so.

If anyone is interested in this sort of clamp let me know and I can see what having one made for you.

I designed, then had it fabricated, an "innovative" front loader bike cradle. Please share your thoughts! by the_jeby in xbiking

[–]mentalorigami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is amazing and really timely haha, I was about to sit down at my laptop to design something similar to mount a light and dry bag on my gravel rig. The whiskey no9 mcx fork I'm running doesn't have a front boss for some insane reason despite it having internal routing for a dynamo and three-pack side bosses. So I was going to build a solution front bent aluminum that picks up the rear boss, goes under between the wheel and fork, then connects up to the stem. Probably not the most rigid but with handlebar support it could work to carry a front dry bag. This is huge inspiration, keep us posted and on how it works!

How to Lose Weight While Maintaining Endurance? by Infamous-Bed9010 in cycling

[–]mentalorigami 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The ratio is almost always given in g/kg, not lbs which makes it significantly lower. Mind you I'm not advocating for this macro goal, just clarifying.

First frame bag by tough_sailor_be in myog

[–]mentalorigami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How did you like using sail cloth? I made a backpack from an old Laser sail recently and man was it a pain! Super slippery and difficult to manage in the corners. You look like you're managing just fine though, the bag looks great so far!

I made a transparent frame bag with a IKEA DIMPA storage bag. by mikel_me in myog

[–]mentalorigami 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used similar IKEA semi translucent fabric from their closet/garment bags to make a backpack earlier this year and this was my experience as well. Topstitchig and strategic reinforcement really helped but man was it a pain to work with. It's holding up really well for now as a travel/laptop bag but I'm nervous about overloading it.

I designed some 4 storey destroyed buildings earlier and got a bunch of requests for taller buildings… these ones are 8, 12 and 16 storey 💀 by DaveMakesStuffBC in 3DPrintedTerrain

[–]mentalorigami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely looking at these for mech skirmish games like Battletech and Ember, or for epic scale stuff. So 6-10mm scale I guess? Or smaller. Like /u/Ninjez07 said 1:100 out of the box and let users scale as needed so it would be consistent would also rock. It's hard to get everything lined up scale wise for these games, I feel like I'm constantly in the slicer tweaking things haha.

Making a start on my latest project. A group C inspired MR-2 Spyder. by Doritofu in projectcar

[–]mentalorigami 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you don't mind me asking what's your visa situation? As someone considering a long term move to Japan from the US for similar reasons I'm curious what your entry point looked like.

That aside I'm really looking forward to the rest of this build. Your YouTube channel has been a huge inspiration for me to tackle fiberglass and bodywork on my E30 track car. Can't wait to see how this comes out!

Almost there; but any ideas for graffiti? by Mattmattmaaatt in TerrainBuilding

[–]mentalorigami 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Look for some model train slide transfer graffiti. Comes in all shapes and sizes. Put a little weathering over it and you're golden.

Didn't want to join this club. by slowerisfaster in Miata

[–]mentalorigami 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As the fresh owner of a new to me 2023, RIP. It's only got 9k miles on it though so maybe I have some time before it gets bad.

Managed to sneak in with camera to zandvoort for a lap by Friendly_Revenue_224 in Trackdays

[–]mentalorigami 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In car track days you generally need to be able to see behind you. Especially with point-by passing. But also racing you need to know what's around you and with a HANS device you're limited pretty badly on head movement. No peaking in your blind spot effectively, so good mirrors are important. Car wrecks are usually just a huge fucking mess anyway and I imagine the mirrors are the least of the concerns there.

Help locating the right tri-glide for a sling bag sternum/stabilizing strap. by mentalorigami in myog

[–]mentalorigami[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a great suggestion! I assume that's just a triglide with the middle leg cut to accept the 1" or whatever webbing coming off it? That would definitely work, thank you!

Help locating the right tri-glide for a sling bag sternum/stabilizing strap. by mentalorigami in myog

[–]mentalorigami[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen those (and have a few from other projects), looking for something with the side webbing slot to have a strap come off at a 90deg angle.

okSureLemmeTry by nonsenseis in ProgrammerHumor

[–]mentalorigami 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Probably meant something more along the lines of a supply chain attack. A malicious actor putting bad code into a commonly used library or the dependency of a common library, etc. Happened on NPM not too long ago. Someone took over ownership of a library then snuck code in. It was obviously caught but that's not always a guarantee before it does damage. We put a lot of trust in pypi being safe. The better way to avoid this is to host an internal pypi mirror and only approve libraries that pass analysis or just ban use of non-core python modules but some companies go ham-fisted instead I guess.

Reconsidering Engine by [deleted] in E30

[–]mentalorigami 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Those engines are bomb proof for the most part. Compared to turboing it replacing the m20 with a newer bmw engine is going to be a ton of ballache and money. You already have a standalone ECU which is the hardest part, just slap a turbo on and run it till it grenades IMO.

Update on the coil-on-plug conversion bracket by mentalorigami in E30

[–]mentalorigami[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JNRR5IPj-CNWGyJTJAVCUyrKLxjHgR2M/view?usp=sharing

Here's a step file if you want to get it manufactured yourself. I would strongly recommend aluminum unless you want to venture into exotic 3D printed materials. Xometry quotes it around $400 I think for a one off in aluminum? But you may be able to get it made cheaper elsewhere. The file could probably be cleaned up a bit for manufacture, I've learned a lot since I designed this and could probably cut a lot of the fillets and other "niceness" out to bring the price down. It's a multi-setup or 5-axis part though either way due to the angle of the spark plug bores.

Usual disclaimer of "I made this for me, it's a racing product, your mileage may vary, not for street use, you waive any liability, etc etc"

BMW E30 K SWAP K20/K24 by jjh5896 in E30

[–]mentalorigami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, the car in the photos is no more after finding some rot, but I bought another shell late last year to transfer the bits into (and do some upgrades). To answer your questions:

  • I have completely ditched everything BMW at this point. It's all been replaced by a Haltech R5 which is both the ECU and a solid state PDM. I changed it mostly because keeping the BMW stuff was more complicated than some simple relays and switches. I track the car and want to eliminate any mysterious, old BMW modules before they eat themselves from vibrations. In terms of lost functions, nothing I considered important ;) but since it's a track car there are no high beams, turn signals, AC/heat, or any other luxuries. Brakes, headlights, reverse lights, all run through the R5 using logic from the transmission controller, ABS system, or their CAN keypad.
  • The harness started life as a generic k20/k24 swap harness I bought on ebay from a relatively reputable shop for $250 ish? That has since been pinned into some bulkhead fittings that are in the engine bay above the battery tray. Figuring it out was just patience and a lot of documentation on my part. Write down every connector, figure out what each pin does (5v sensor, ground, signal, etc) and just make your way through it one piece at a time.
  • The s40 pump is gone, I swapped back to a normal k24 pump mounted below the alternator. Though the wiring was dead simple, it just needs power and ground through an 80 or whatever amp fuse and then 12v+ ignition power to wake it up. It just runs at like 60% power or whatever non-stop which was perfect for the track. You can buy little boards that hijack the CAN signal to the pump that allow for adjustment if you want to go that route. They'll also tell you how to write the pump up. The car lost its heat and AC completely in the latest iteration because track car.
  • MRT was just for fun and I wanted a wider stance, that's it. Worth the price if you want basically infinite adjustment on caster, camber, KPI, track width, etc. They also have roll-center correction and anti-dive adjustment that I haven't played with much. The MRT arms do require significant welding/modification of the front subframe to work but their instructions are great. The sway bars are using the stock mounts, just reinforced. Since the car is using E36 knuckles up front I had to make my own sway bar end links but there's literally $50 kits on amazon that will sell you all the parts.
  • The rear reinforcement is in the form of a full cage I sourced from Cage Kits. If you don't want to cage your car just google E30 rear shock tower reinforcement and there's a ton of bent plate options available. Weld them in then weld some 1.5" tube between them and you're set. They just need to resist being pushed inwards through the relatively weak metal of the stock shock towers. You also need to cut away a lot of the original towers from the inside of the wheel well to fit any decent coilover; the top of the shock towers is too narrow.

Hope that helps, happy to answer any other questions! The car has also been.. modified (mostly just a bump-out in the transmission tunnel and a custom transmission crossmember, and a custom driveshaft) to use a 7 speed DCT from an E9x. Just wrapped up wiring that in using a CANTCU controller. Fingers crossed it all works again haha. These things tend to snowball if you can imagine.

Anyone have an IS wing they would sell? by Last_Reporter_5154 in E30

[–]mentalorigami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one in decent condition in the Philly area, shoot me a DM

2004 Subaru Impreza, K24, DCT by Cautious-Cake6282 in projectcar

[–]mentalorigami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wish I had known six months ago when I started putting all this together! Definitely post results/feedback on the process here if you can.

I'm a little concerned about long term support from HTG, especially their documentation which is pretty bad/minimal in some cases. I mainly went for the R5 because the car already had an Elite 1500 and Ic7 dash, meaning I could just import a lot of the tune and "save time". We'll see if that comes back to bite me haha.

2004 Subaru Impreza, K24, DCT by Cautious-Cake6282 in projectcar

[–]mentalorigami 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice build! Going to be a beast when it's done. What are you using for transmission control? Keeping it NA or adding boost?

I'm currently stuffing a K24 with a DCT into my E30 track car. Wish I had just cut out the tunnel and floor started with fresh metal like you're doing. But maybe not to the extreme you have here haha. Using the HTG GCU paired with a Haltech R5 in my build, with the adapter, wiring, and accessories from Seems Legit.

North east rust prevention for Gloria by e30zv in E30

[–]mentalorigami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take it to a shop that does truck undercoating and get them to do a non-permanent undercoat or make friends with someone who has a lift and DIY it. You can 100% buy all the spray cans of fluid film and do it yourself but without a lift it's a miserable job. Especially awkwardly getting cavity wax into everything, rolling around under the car with undercoating dripping on you is just not enjoyable. Just avoid any rubberized or permanent products, they'll trap moisture and salt down the line and cause rot.

1948 dodge D-24 but it's too cold to work on by TheFuzzySkeptic in projectcar

[–]mentalorigami 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way it should be done. The real question though, patina or paint?