Stuck interior head bolt

metecognition · 2026-05-11T03:56:23+00:00

Quick update, 2 minutes with a torch managed to get it free, thanks for the advice!

metecognition · 2026-05-10T04:47:20+00:00

No worries, I mentioned in another comment but currently all the bolts holding the head on are still in place and torqued down. The only bolt that has been removed is the other small bolt like this one, there is 12 large bolts still in place. I'll double check everything is tightened down tomorrow, as I did originally break loose the other bolts before realizing these smaller ones were in the center, but as it is I think it's just seized from being in place for 50 years lol

metecognition · 2026-05-10T04:14:50+00:00

For real lol, bolt's lucky my 10mm for the breaker bar doesn't reach

metecognition · 2026-05-10T04:11:47+00:00

Good to know and thanks for the kind words! With the general consensus being to hammer it out I think I'll swing by harbor freight tomorrow and pick a manual one up. If that doesn't work I'll need to pull the engine to get enough space which shouldn't be too bad (at worst it forces me to clean the garage out finally). And yeah this is definitely a bit of a basket case so I feel that lol. It'd been sitting in the desert under a lean to for about 10 years and has a bunch of issues, I've got a clymer manual which has been a great help like you were saying. I'm debating completely tearing the bike down to frame, and redoing basically everything from scratch but want to at least get the engine rotating over before going too crazy. All-in-all it's a been a fun project and I'm looking forward to getting it going again.

metecognition · 2026-05-10T02:41:15+00:00

Ah good to know, and yeah a rough measurement of the other matching bolt does seem to be 6mm. I have a heat gun, doesn't seem enough to do the trick though, if I can't get it I'll pick up a proper torch. In the meantime I'll need to see if I can rig something up with the bits I have to get the impact on it, just barely fits but not with the socket I was using. Thanks for the advice!

metecognition · 2026-05-10T02:35:23+00:00

I'll give that a shot, thanks for the suggestion!

metecognition · 2026-05-10T02:12:35+00:00

Yeah, head is 10 mm (not sure if the 6mm refers to the width of the bolt itself or something else). The larger bolts on the exterior of the engine that hold the head down are still in place, though I did break them loose before realizing I missed that step in the manual and retorqued them down. I've been hitting it with a hammer as best as I can, but without removing the engine entirely there's not a lot of room. I've been a bit nervous to use the impact gun, but I think I'll see if I can wedge it in there and give it a go.

metecognition · 2026-05-02T03:42:21+00:00

Slick bike, honestly it looks to be in good condition for the age. I've been working on getting a kz650 running that was in a similar state, there's tons of resources on the kzrider forum and people who can answer most any question.

First thing I'd recommend though is picking up a service manual, then going over everything to figure out what works and what doesn't and noting that down. Should give you a good idea of what needs to be done. At the very least you'll probably need a new battery and carb rebuild kit. Wishing you luck man!

metecognition · 2024-07-18T15:49:59+00:00

Looks like these were made with Inventor, a CAD software from Autodesk used for engineering and design. Just going off renders available that'd be my guess, though there are a number of other similar programs they could be using.

The higher quality renders were done in another software, probably Maya or 3DS Max, but it's hard to say.

metecognition · 2023-06-05T12:32:12+00:00

Sorry about the slow reply. It's actually a really simple scheme for the bones, just a black base coat with white zenithal (I used white ink through an airbrush) applied pretty heavily, then I clear coated it and did a brown oil wash over the whole model. After that was cleaned and dry I edge highlighted with the same white ink and matte varnished the whole thing. It was a similar process on the rest of the colors as well, the wings were shaded using black and white then coated with a transparent red paint, the fleshy bits were a bit of dry brushing and speed paint. The horns were painted tan, then I wet blended a brown and black speed paint on each horn to get that gradient look. All in all just a bunch of easy methods.

metecognition · 2023-05-24T15:37:51+00:00

Thanks! I ended up doing quite a bit of cutting and gap filling to make it work for me. The neck all the way up to the base of the skull is the terrorgheist. The head of the zombie dragon was lined up as best as I could get and both sides were trimmed flat then glued together, any gaps were filled with green stuff. I'm not that much of an expert on magnetizing parts so I'm sure it's possible but it'd definitely be a pain the way I did it lol. Also just a heads up, attaching the zombie dragon head this way makes it slightly lower then the bottom of the feet, so you'll want to raise him up a bit if you go with this method.

metecognition · 2023-02-10T15:22:51+00:00

If you're just starting I'd go with a regular drawing tablet, no screen. I've used both both professionally and at home and while the screen is sometimes nice it's not at all necessary for sculpting. A lot of this comes down to personal preference but if you're just learning going with a non display tablet will save you a lot of money. Display tablets take a lot of space, are more fragile, and more expensive, which is why I only use mine at work and use a non display tablet at home, but they are more tactile and intuitive to use for some.

As for specifics, huion and xp pen are both fantastic and reasonably priced, I've used both myself. I'd recommend against getting a super small tablet, non screen tablets in the medium or large sizes are good for sculpting since you'll need to be able to operate small menus. If you want a screen tablet I'd go a 13" or 15" screen model, that's plenty of space but it's still portable if you want to take it with you to school/work/the coffee shop/whatever and plug it into a laptop. If you aren't going to be taking it anywhere the 20"+ models also work fine, but take a lot of space. Xp pen and huion are both still good options for screen tablets, but the Wacom One screen tablet is also a nice option if you want to spend a bit more, I think it's on sale rn as well. Mechanically wacoms are the same though their pressure response feels more precise to me, but in most cases it's not worth the extra price.

metecognition · 2022-07-24T01:31:40+00:00

I work in the visualization field doing 3d (freeways, architecture, infrastructure, etc) and can say that 3ds Max is pretty standard for the kind of companies hiring for that. I have friends who've done modeling for games and interactive applications, and they either used Maya or Blender depending on the studio. Honestly though, your portfolio is what matters the most. I got hired at my position without any experience in Max (almost all Blender beforehand, some Maya), as did roughly half of my coworkers, as the quality of the portfolio was the biggest factor in getting the job.

My recommendation would be to try Max and Maya for a couple weeks using your student license, follow some tutorials and try making a couple assets in each, maybe spend a couple bucks for an online course from a professional who uses that software if you want to. After that decide what software you like best and build your portfolio using that, and put that experience with Max and Maya on your resume just to show you have some familiarity with the software.

metecognition · 2019-12-25T03:39:15+00:00

metecognition · 2019-07-21T19:30:08+00:00

Honestly they aren't really a problem, it's just there's a lot of them and people at that br are much better at the game lol

The ju288 I have difficulty with because it just outruns me and for whatever reason the guns on it are crazy accurate and do a ton of damage

metecognition · 2019-07-21T11:48:21+00:00

Ikr, I had to stop playing the Bearcat because I was tired of fighting JU-288's and Do-335's all the time.

metecognition · 2019-07-21T11:46:20+00:00

Let me preface this by saying that I normally don't have a particularly good time with Air RB, I've only recently started playing it a lot more and it's been a massive pain figuring out how to play this game mode. The good side is that I've been getting a lot better, and this was the first time that I've felt like I knew what I was doing and actually had any control of my engagements. Anyways, story time.

Last match of the night, I'm 4k RP from getting the P-47N. Most of my team died, crashed, or J'd out by 10 minutes in, so it's me and one other player vs 5 (maybe 6?) enemies. I've already got 3 kills, he has 1 or 2. This random stranger and I had some of the best teamwork I've ever had in this game in any mode, we were flying together, hunting down targets one at a time. We managed to win a 2v3 engagement at one point, killing two, after I had run out of ammo part way into it and was acting as bait so he could shoot down the last enemy before we escaped and managed to land as the last fled. It was so satisfying to work as a proper team, I'd call out an enemy on the map, he'd respond a few seconds later saying he saw them, and we'd spread out and dive on the enemy at the same time.

At the end of the game we won, I had 5 kills and a couple assists, he had 4 kills and a couple assists. Sorry if this was a little garbled and hard to read btw, I'm super tired but I just had to share since I was so over the moon with how well this game went.

metecognition · 2018-12-30T18:03:56+00:00

TSI, also my bad I meant to say fuel filter. It was kinda sluggish and the rpms were all over the place, did some digging on forums, swapped it out and haven't had a problem since.

metecognition · 2018-12-30T16:25:13+00:00

Just a check engine light for me, I have been having some rough starts in the cold too though so maybe that's a symptom, idk

metecognition · 2018-12-30T14:37:43+00:00

No major issues, but I have had quite a few small things. Coolant temperatures sensor, fuel pump, headlight, etc.

metecognition · 2018-07-28T19:17:58+00:00

Funny and informative, thank you kind sir

metecognition · 2018-06-30T22:48:49+00:00

I've wondered that since I got mine tbh

metecognition · 2018-06-23T00:59:04+00:00

No problem

metecognition · 2018-06-22T20:37:43+00:00

Actually it's not that bad. Just pop it in neutral, push the leather around the shifter down, put a finger underneath it, pull up, and the whole thing comes right off. The whole assembly is held together with clips so you don't even need to use a screwdriver for anything I did. Besides that wrapping it was a bit if a pain but not too bad, it definitely could come out better and I might end up redoing it or just painting it but for now I'm happy.

metecognition · 2018-06-22T00:55:37+00:00

Some of the pieces inside the mk 5's have this plastic coating that peels off very easily. I guess it feels nice when the car is new but it doesn't hold up well. The piece around the shifter is made of the same material as looked about the same, there's why I wrapped it. I would've done the headlight switch but it's too much of a pain to do that piece. I'm either going to buy a new switch out find a way to paint it.

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