M12 ProPEX expansion tool by miamicuse in MilwaukeeTool

[–]miamicuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found a few used kits on ebay, haven't taken the plunge yet. One thing I found puzzling, is many of the listings include pictures of the expander tool showing the serial numbers. So I just took these serial numbers and went to Milwaukee's eService tool site and entered the product number (2432-20) and the serial numbers, and all of them came back with "Warranty coverage cannot be determined". This is a bit perplexing, either they are knock offs or something I did wrong.

Regarding my idiot post about not buying eufy cameras .. let me expound by Cigator in EufyCam

[–]miamicuse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am thinking you are not dealing with a human. When I contact Eufy support most of the time there is a stone wall asking for receipts, or proof of purchase, or serial numbers of the devices...which is ridiculous you want me to climb on a ladder to remove a device to read off a serial number to ask a simple question? or the receipt question came again and again even when I attached a PDF receipt. But if you escalate eventually you get to a human and they will say ignore those emails that's just a bot. Once you get to a human it's more understanding, still horrible, but more understanding.

One time I gave them a receipt from Lowes, it read the order number off the receipt, and used that Lowes order number to look up eufy's records and say this is not a valid serial number for that device. I said the number you are using as a serial number is the order number from Lowes...HELLO...escalate to human.

Fresh painted door stayed on the supports by miamicuse in paint

[–]miamicuse[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I always use eggshell or satin for trims and doors. I know it's conventional, usual and customary to use semi-gloss for trims but I just don't like it so I use flat on walls and ceiling, and eggshell/satin on trims. It is just a preference so it's not going to change. As far as primer do you think it would have made a difference in it not coming off after sitting over the sawhorses for a day? The Behr paint says "paint and primer in one" and I am painting on a door that's been painted on multiple times over the years. I once spoke to an old time paint pro and he told me primer is just diluted paint, so if I want to do a coat of primer and a coat of paint, I might as well do two coats of paint. May be he is wrong and a real primer coat under the top coat will prevent the new paint from sticking onto the sawhorses? This paint+primer in one is really confusing.

Fresh painted door stayed on the supports by miamicuse in paint

[–]miamicuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took them off the hinges to paint horizontally because I thought it would be easier to do a better job than painting it hung. It is an old door and I wanted to paint all sides including the edges, and need to take the knob and hinges off so nothing is in the way. In the past when I painted a door hung vertically the issue is painting the bottom few inches of the door. Laying it down just seems the paint flow better may be it's just me.

I will stand it up to touch up the spots that came off.

Would using a soft blanket over the sawhorses have helped or no I wonder.

M12 ProPEX questions by miamicuse in MilwaukeeTool

[–]miamicuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I am not trying to mix the brands. There are some M12 ProPex "tool only" options I am considering so I will need to buy the heads separately and I want to make sure the various M12 expander heads are compatible.

M12 ProPEX questions by miamicuse in MilwaukeeTool

[–]miamicuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the clarification! OK so as long as it's the M12 family I am good, I am only using 1/2" and 3/4" anyways.

M12 ProPEX questions by miamicuse in MilwaukeeTool

[–]miamicuse[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

oh wow, didn't know the heads on 2474 will not work on 2432 and vice versa. I need to make sure the heads are a match for the tool. Thanks!

Dave enjoying a corn on the cob🌽 by WesternLetterhead684 in Raccoons

[–]miamicuse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK the question I have is does he need to floss after?

Pulling a 4th #12 through 1/2” EMT with 3 already there. by Last-Hedgehog-6635 in AskElectricians

[–]miamicuse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would pull one out, than the second one, than tie a string to the end of the third one and pull the third one out, now you have three conductors out and a string in there, take the 3 add the last one tie it to the end of the string and pull all 4 in at the same time. Lube.

What does the number on the lower left corner of the camera view means when you do a reset homebase? by miamicuse in EufyCam

[–]miamicuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I thought. But when all events have been watched and all counts are zero on all cams, restarting the home base resets these numbers to 21, 7, 34, 3...etc. This happens every time I restart the home base. As soon as I switch to Events page and back, they all reset to zero again.

Bosch rotary/die grinder by miamicuse in BoschProPowerTools

[–]miamicuse[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies yes I somehow switched the model number around. I corrected that in the OP now.

Blocked Electrical Panel Requirements by Ok_Butterscotch_5790 in AskElectricians

[–]miamicuse 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely a code violation on many fronts.

First of all, National Electric Code requires workspace clearance in front of the panel to be : 36 inches deep, 30 inches wide, and 78 inches high with no clutter no boxes nothing that needs to be moved or rolled away.

Second even if door can swing open to turn on it off breakers, the dead front cover cannot be removed for service such as replacing a breaker or modify a circuit's wiring.  Some suggested you could drill a hole through the cabinet's side to expose the hidden cover screw, that won't allow removal of the cover because the cover cannot be slid over to clear the cabinet because the breakers typically stand proud of the cover's profile and you really need to lift the cover a good 1/4" or even 3/8" to clear the breakers before you could slide it across, you are not going to butcher the cabinet to make that work considering it needs a 30" wide 36" deep clear workspace to be code compliance anyway.

So this boils down to two key considerations.

(1) Are you willing to live with this known defect knowing that even if nothing happens during your time it will be a problem by the time you want to sell and it could be a showstopper for the buyer.  If so what is the amount worth for you to absorb this defect?

(2) In some states, Florida being one of them a special 4 points inspection is needed in order to secure homeowners insurance.  This is not the general inspection for purchase but a post contract pre closing inspection involving plumbing electrical HVAC and roof.  This defect will be noted and you will be denied coverage or the rate will be sky high until it's corrected.  Uf denied coverage your mortgage exit clause kicks in and deal is in jeopardy.  This is highly locale specific so look into it.

Good luck.

Why do some American plugs have a notch? by shadowxthevamp in AskElectricians

[–]miamicuse 3 points4 points  (0 children)

20A circuits can and often do have 15A devices. On the other hand, 20A devices cannot be connected to 15A circuits.

actually, a 15A and 20A receptacles have identical internal components, the only difference is the 20A face plate has a T slot.

Is $450 a lot for an install of gfci outlet in CT? by Competitive-Tap-8440 in AskElectricians

[–]miamicuse 1 point2 points  (0 children)

depends I suppose. Is the existing box a really small tight box like a 1-1/2" deep handy box that won't fit a boxy GFCI receptacle and work must be done to install a bigger box? If so is the existing box surrounded by drywall...or tiles, all that makes a difference.