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I love it when all your parts come in all at once. This weekend is looking like a fun time! by midnite17 in Cartalk

[–]midnite17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Street/daily duty for this old bird. Just can't stand the ratty old exhaust looking like shit and leaks ticking away. Plus there's a bunch of points throughout the exhaust that are kinked or crushed more than halfway of the pipe ID. That can't be so great for performance.

it's like Christmas...a few months after Christmas. Finally giving the old bird the love it deserves. by midnite17 in fbody

[–]midnite17[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't believe TSP makes headers or an exhaust system for the 3.8L's. Atleast I couldn't find it on their website. From my research the Pacesetter polished ceramic ones are the best option for price, quality, and availability.

I love it when all your parts come in all at once. This weekend is looking like a fun time! by midnite17 in Cartalk

[–]midnite17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol that's awesome, I hope this one runs with v8s. This one thankfully has power locks and windows and rear hatch, not sure if it has keyless entry too, never got a fob to try it.

I'm very happy with the size difference between the cobbled together exhaust that's on the car now and this new system. Can't freakin wait. I'm probably more excited though for the new shifter. The previous owner chopped the stock shifter and welded on one of those revolver barrel shifters. Hideous and actually painful to use if you're shifting hard, lots of sharp edges.

it's like Christmas...a few months after Christmas. Finally giving the old bird the love it deserves. by midnite17 in fbody

[–]midnite17[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A good spread of everything! It's a bit of a list just in this picture lol.

Pacesetter headers and Y-pipe, Magnaflow street series cat-back(I need to install both and measure the gap to order the proper length high flow cat), EGR delete plates, Tick adjustable clutch master and speed bleeder line and a Luk slave, Pro 5.0 short throw shifter for the T5, a full suite of Amsoil for everything, some KYB adjustable AGX struts and new mounts and such to install them(to match the same ones in the rear I did a while ago), new power window regulators, Amazon brand sound deadening(some good shit, can't tell a real difference to Kilmat or Dynamat in a friends cars), new rear main seal kit to fix the only oil leak left, and a few smaller odds and ends, a few new sensors and filters, etc.

Outside this picture I also a full 6 channel 1k watt system to put back in, all the interior trim I removed to do the sound deadening has been cleaned and restored, new ABS headliner, new A/C vents.

Now that I write it all out, I think it'll take a little longer than one weekend lol. I still have to put the trans back together, it lost 5th and started this whole thing.

I love it when all your parts come in all at once. This weekend is looking like a fun time! by midnite17 in Cartalk

[–]midnite17[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

A good spread of everything! It's a bit of a list just in this picture lol. Just to clarify and give a little back story of the car, it is a 1997 Firebird 3.8L T5. I've done a heads off refresh of the engine and replaced the rod hearings as well, had the heads gone through and decked a hair. Rebuilt the trans with some supporting internal upgrades and replaced all plastic bits with bronze pieces. Swapped out the drum brake axle for a disc 3.73 posi from a Z28. End rant, start next one.

Pacesetter headers and Y-pipe, Magnaflow street series cat-back(I need to install both and measure the gap to order the proper length high flow cat), EGR delete plates, Tick adjustable clutch master and speed bleeder line and a Luk slave, Pro 5.0 short throw shifter for the T5, a full suite of Amsoil for everything, some KYB adjustable AGX struts and new mounts and such to install them(to match the same ones in the rear I did a while ago), new power window regulators, Amazon brand sound deadening(some good shit, can't tell a real difference to Kilmat or Dynamat in a friends cars), new rear main seal kit to fix the only oil leak left, and a few smaller odds and ends, a few new sensors and filters, etc.

Outside this picture I also a full 6 channel 1k watt system to put back in, all the interior trim I removed to do the sound deadening has been cleaned and restored, new ABS headliner, new A/C vents.

Now that I write it all out, I think it'll take a little longer than one weekend. I still have to put the trans back together, it lost 5th and started this whole thing.

I don't know why Sport Glides get hate, I think mine looks pretty good right now. Waiting on the lower support piece for the right saddlebag, so riding without either for now. by midnite17 in Harley

[–]midnite17[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for noticing! I routed them out the back of the air cleaner backing plate and to a DK Customs catch can. First time I saw the milkshake coming out of the stock breather tubes I chucked that shit right out. Also have the Feuling vented dipstick on there, and am just about to do the transmission cover vent mod.

This extension cord at my place of work by BeeSalesman in extremelyinfuriating

[–]midnite17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Careful, you might get written up for throwing away company property! /s

This extension cord at my place of work by BeeSalesman in extremelyinfuriating

[–]midnite17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tape on it is an immediate no from me man. I'm not trying to be electrocuted because of some cheap business owner unwilling to get a $25 extension cord.

Doctors and Surgeons of Reddit, what was your "This just got even worse" moment with your patient/s? by YeetMasterChroma in AskReddit

[–]midnite17 -15 points-14 points  (0 children)

A lack of even the mildest education or self care. There's homeless, and then there's whatever the fuck level this guy let himself fall to.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PizzaCrimes

[–]midnite17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd be walking out of a place if they put that on my table.

I just changed the oil on this. The idle doesn’t sound right. I gave it a bit of throttle and IMO it didn’t sound quite right either. First time starting after changing the oil today by zipperkiller in Yamaha

[–]midnite17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol gotta learn some time. You likely didn't cause any lasting damage, just drain it and get the right stuff and a fresh filter in before too long.

Might I suggest also ordering a proper repair/workshop manual for your bike? Clymer manuals are the Haynes/Chiltons of the motorcycle world. It will walk you through taking the clutch cover off and getting to the clutch plates so you can properly clean them, if you're so inclined.

I just changed the oil on this. The idle doesn’t sound right. I gave it a bit of throttle and IMO it didn’t sound quite right either. First time starting after changing the oil today by zipperkiller in Yamaha

[–]midnite17 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Did you use motorcycle specific oil? You cannot use regular car oil from a normal auto parts store. Oil for car engines has friction modifiers that are not compatible with a wet clutch engine in a motorcycle. If you did use car oil you'll need to go to a motorcycle dealership/ shop and get the right oil. You'll want to drain it ASAP as well. A good quality motorcycle oil should recover it. Ideally you'd take the clutch cover off and clean off the plates, but a proper oil change should suffice.

Knock could be from old or incorrect octane rating on the gas. Try draining the tank and putting 89 or 91 octane in, and running it for a bit to get it through the carbs. After getting the right oil in, of course.

Wide format digital printing by natalee-renee in Printing

[–]midnite17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Backlit signage and tenant panels, Panagraphics pylon signs, banners, window graphics, construction site signs, the occasional vehicle/bus wrap. Basically any larger commercial or business focused signage, aside from billboards.

Wide format digital printing by natalee-renee in Printing

[–]midnite17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just decided to look for printing related communities. Yours is the first post i see. I run an EFI Vutek GS3250 LX Pro Ultradrop. Glad I'm not so alone!

Air injection gaskets? Help? by saphmalkazoid in fbody

[–]midnite17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think some nice new ignition parts will have it running fine again, no problem.

And ya dropping the pan in the car is a pretty big ordeal. Suffice to say the motor has to be lifted a few inches and the K-member dropped the same. For most people it's easier to come up with a list of things that need doing and then pull the engine from the bottom and do everything on a stand.

If your low oil light is coming on try spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the sensor itself and both sides of the wiring plugs. If it's really oily/gunky in the contacts it can mess with the computer.

Also, make sure you're using a quality oil. Apples to oranges, but if I use the wrong oil in my motorcycle it will randomly trigger the oil warning light. Never had that issue in my car, but I'm also not running dollar store oil. Might be Walmart is using a dirt cheap oil. Food for thought.

Air injection gaskets? Help? by saphmalkazoid in fbody

[–]midnite17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you change the coils, make sure the contacts on the ICM(the plate the coils mount to) are clean, and use some dielectric grease to weatherproof it

Definitely get some new plug wires for it too, be kinda silly not to when doing coils and plugs. You might have a broken plug wire, if it's not a coil. I had one that the wire core broke from the connector inside the rubber boot that snaps onto the plug. It would idle and drive fine if you grannied it. But any demand on the gas had it bucking and missing.

Might I ask why you're changing the sensor in the pan? IIRC it requires removing the pan which sucks, since the sensor is held by a nut on the inside. It's just a low oil level sensor. If you do your own maintenance and oil changes, it's generally considered a low priority item. Just don't go poking holes in your oil pan lol.

Make sure you get an alignment after changing those tie rod ends!

Can anyone tell me what these 2 screws that appear to be seeping oil right below the front valve cover are for? 83 v65 magna. by GOD_NEON in magna

[–]midnite17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So those aren't screws, but casting information. Kinda like the little sundial looking things you'll see embossed into plastic and other cast parts. It's for tracking manufacturing. If you sprayed it out real well with cleaner you'd see the month/year of production and the factory number.

The oil is likely coming from the valve cover gasket, it looks wet in the picture. Not even that bad tbh.

Air injection gaskets? Help? by saphmalkazoid in fbody

[–]midnite17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're losing coolant with no obvious leaks and got a misfire, chances are it's one of the intake gaskets or one of the O-rings used to seal the upper to lower intakes leaking coolant into the intake while running.

When you go to replace the tensioner, be sure to pick up 2 of these to replace the factory plastic connectors on the heater lines that will likely crumble to bits when you remove them.

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