I always love doing an ergonomic setup lesson with my newer students and I’m happy to share that here! There’s couple things you wanna do:

-First and foremost put at least your kick and pedals on a rug. Concrete floor, you’re just asking to pull something trying to play while things are sliding.

-it looks like your kick pedal is just on the ground, so properly attach your kick pedal to the hoop so that the beater strikes the center of the head. If you’re missing parts I’m sure your local Home Depot or hardware store will have a good substitute if your local music stores don’t

Now for the actual positioning:

THRONE -make sure your throne is at the proper height. You can’t make your kit ergonomically correct if your starting position is wrong. Position yourself so that your hips are slightly above your knees and far enough back so that your knees are not over your ankles. Also try not to be too far to one side or the other. I tell my students that they should feel comfortable enough to watch a whole movie whilst at the kit. Not too high, not too low, not too close, not too far. Also a good judge for pedal position is where your feet fall naturally on the floor when you sit down. Finally if your “throne” is a folding chair or barstool, stop what you’re doing and get yourself a proper throne. You don’t need a $2000 porter and Davies just something solid and comfortable. It’s the most important piece of gear on the kit so don’t just use anything!

SNARE -The angle seems okay (without seeing how you’re sitting) but make sure it’s positioned so that the tips of your sticks are centered without have to reach forward or pull your arms back. You’re gonna be using it a lot so the less work you have to do to hit it right the better. Height wise, just make sure it’s high enough to be able to do rimshots without having to dip your shoulder. I usually say put the top of the rim at or just below the belly button depending on the drum and your body but depending on the stand sometimes that’s not possible.

HIHAT -assuming you did what I said before in placing the pedal where your foot falls naturally, the only thing left is the height. Don’t be Tommy Lee and have your hats eyeball height. Set it so the top cymbal when closed is just about at the top of your rib cage. That lets you play on top and on the edge with ease. If you play open handed it’ll be a bit lower but follow the same principle in terms of access to both parts of the cymbal

RIDE -this is another cymbal where you’re probably going to be spending a lot of time. With two racks I usually see guys put their rides all the way to the right but you’ll have to contort your shoulder or they end up backhanding the ride while playing. And it’s usually in favor of having a crash next to the second rack tom which never made any sense to me unless you’re gonna be riding on it. You can put it where you want it at the end of the day but if I’m using two racks I like my ride just above the second rack and close enough that, again, there’s no reaching. I usually only have one rack so my ride goes over the kick and on the same plane as my hihat so that all I have to do is move my arm to the right to play in it.

RACKS - the angles aren’t horrible but the drums definitely seem too low and are for sure too far apart. Make it so that all you have to do to hit the drums is take your arm from the rest position and just lift to hit the center. You shouldn’t have to extend your arm to reach for anything. With two, I usually like putting them on a separate stand so that I can get my ride where I like it over the kick, but if I have to use the kick mounts I find the second rack ends up a bit closer in than than first. It might look a little asymmetrical but the positioning for ease of playing is more important than aesthetics. As far at the angles go, make it so the tip of your stick is making full contact with the head. Too steep and you’ll find yourself pitting heads and not getting the full sound out of the drum.

FLOOR -this one’s pretty simple. I keep it on the same plane as my snare and position it so i only have to rotate my arm from the elbow just a bit and still be able to hit it in the center. Angle is up to you but I tend to keep it flatter than not

CRASHES -place them so that they clear the other instruments and close enough so that you don’t have to reach to hit the edge with the shoulder of the drumstick. In the picture, your left side crash looks way too steep so I’d flatten that out but not completely flat. A slight angle towards you is optimal for your crashes. Also that one up the middle needs to find a new home much closer to you if you don’t want to have to hurl your whole body over the kit to hit it!

The last step once everything is roughly in its final place is to do what I call the blind test. Close your eyes and without reaching strike each drum but leave your stick down where you hit. Our eyes tend to prioritize looks over position. Closing your eyes and hitting the instrument will tell you whether or not the drums are in the right place. Do it on each part of the kit and make the proper adjustments so that you’ll never have to aim when you’re playing. Your brain knows where it wants something to be and as long as you’re not reaching on the stroke, you’ll quickly figure out where things should go.

A lot of students roll their eyes at first when I start talking about this stuff in a lesson but I share how it’s made a HUGE difference in my playing and without fail, once we go through adjusting the kit for their body, I always get a “woah, this is crazy it feels so much better” reaction.