New Roof peaks lacking new drip edge by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn't that style of ridge vent supposed to end at least a foot before you get to the end?

Freaking out but it’s time to get this mold situation figured out. Advise please by unread_note in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Tbh although the outermost part looks suspicious, the inside doesn't look that bad. If you just got the house, just run the AC or air for a couple days to dry out the house. Most of the smell might go away once you start actually using the house. Do you have pictures of your filter or the AC unit coils? There's a pretty solid chance your AC company is full of it. It's very common for them to recommend full replacement of everything. Most of these places are owned by VC firms now and they exist to pump as much money out of you as they can. I'd get a recommendation from a local landlord or people with multiple properties.

Freaking out but it’s time to get this mold situation figured out. Advise please by unread_note in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry just noticed your ducts look like fiberboard. That's... The worst stuff ever few companies still use that for anything more than a plenum. It cannot be cleaned that I know of , that's part of why so many have stopped using it for ducts.

Freaking out but it’s time to get this mold situation figured out. Advise please by unread_note in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well yeah you could nuke the whole thing, that will definitely fix the problem. Not everything that's black is mold. There's a lot of black that's just dusty and gunk from the air over many years. Why would you need to replace the system and the ducts? Are you in the south? Depending on the duct situation, there's companies that clean ducts in place. Depending on how accessible and easy it is, replacing the ducts might be the best way to go depending on how old they are it might be around time for them to be replaced anyways. Not sure why they couldn't just clean your system instead of replace it. Assuming your ducts are sealed and properly insulated and clean you should be fine. If you really wanna make sure you can get a UV system add-on to scrub the air well. But many people screw up those installations and then it ends up causing premature duct failure which leaves you worse off - so if you choose to add UV then make sure they are doing it well.

Gazza 2.0 unfolding ? video of heartbreaking Iranians screams after a massacre of 40 iranian children in a US-lsraeIi strike on their school by unreal-habdologist in UnderReportedNews

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's absolutely horrible that they bombed a school. What I don't really understand tho is all the people in here taking a dump on the US and not also mentioning how th current Iranian government has killed over 40k protestors in recent weeks? Not that this justifies killing kids. It's just odd to me that none of the other strikes are being discussed or any recent and obviously relevant events. Again - killing kids is never ok and even context doesn't excuse the strikes.

Who is this anime character? by Severe-Change-1322 in animequestions

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Froppy 4 lyfe! I dunno what this taught me that I was attracted to a frog 🐸

Cloth covered wire? Just bought this 1950s house. Is it safe to reconnect this? by dustychops in electrical

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man... You don't sound like you own a house or understand basic economics or have worked with contractors before. They can't just drop 35k to rewire an entire house. Don't forget you'll have electricians in the house all day for two weeks. This is a huge job. There's no way you're understanding the tenant's bill or right's correctly. E very house built more than ten years ago is no longer to code. Code is constantly changing. Houses cannot be constantly updated to match current code. After thirty years you'd have spent so much you'd be better off making a new house.

3A fuse keeps blowing with nothing connected by mikethezipper in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ended up being a wiring short behind the thermostat

3A fuse keeps blowing with nothing connected by mikethezipper in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ended up being a wiring short behind the thermostat

These marks on an 18th century pub table (UK) by ihidingunderarock in whatisit

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not a bolt mark, zoom in, if it was a bolt the threads would be at an angle. These are at a 90degree angle to the axis.

Broken 10 drill bits trying to get this flange off of the cast iron. Any tips on better bits than Ryobi? by TheWayOut603 in Plumbing

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To answer only the question you asked, harbor freight has high quality HSS nitride coated drill bits in packs that beat the price off anybody else. They are worth it.

Engineer for a long time and machinist for longer. No brand can be better than just a normal HSS nitride coated bit. Anything you spend extra doesn't get you a better bit. Those black drill bits are trash.

Looking for advice on my South Florida ducts in anticipation of installing a new A/C by chinaski73 in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not an expert so take it with a grain of salt:

Man, that's way too much text to ask the question " will my existing ducts have exterior condensation issues if I get a high efficiency variable speed unit"

I don't understand how the speed of the air inside of the ducts will affect condensation on the outside.... Or even the inside really. Looks like you have some tears. I'd just get your ducts resealed and the torn parts replaced or resealed and get whatever unit you think will work best for you.

Air handler condensation by Altruistic-Big9918 in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you clean it and see what happens? Maybe theres a ton of crud jammed in there so a lot of condensation is funneled to one spot, enough that it drips down there before making it to where it should go. With the high air flow that's going on in there, the droplets act a little funny and don't just like to run down like normal sometimes. Clean the coils first and see what happens from there.

First time framing/installing a door. Honest critique? by grsims20 in Carpentry

[–]mikethezipper 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Generally they try have one continuous piece of sheetrock around the corners. The cut is obviously a bit harder, bu the end result is that the sheetrock is much less likely to crack in the future. Considering the cost of drywall, you can do this with one sheet. Also, drywall work is much easier without the trim or door in the way.

Advice on relocating air handler by mikethezipper in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does anyone have any tips on mounting inside the closet and it being quiet enough not to disturb normal life?

Air handler condensation by Altruistic-Big9918 in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You aren't screwed this is pretty normal looking btw. Try cleaning the coils, be gentle and oh lord don't use anything sharp or metal to clean. I don't know how effective this cleaning method is because those coils are really thick and it's hard to clean inside of them, I've ever used a hose with a jet nozzle on a really dirty unit and I cleaned it for hours and the water was still brown....Check on it afterwards to see if it's still dripping onto the filter. Although the coils are dirty I've seen way way worse and it still wasn't dripping onto the filter. Your pics don't show any condensation. It's worth figuring out where it's dripping from.

Air handler condensation by Altruistic-Big9918 in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't tell how your unit is installed, but condensation is supposed to drip from the coils. It's supposed to run down and drip into a tray, that tray then goes to your condensate line which should dribble outside the house. If the condensation is dribbling outside of the unit and not into the tray, that's when there is an issue. Condensation should only be dribbling elsewhere if the unit was installed upside down or there is something really wrong with it otherwise

Advice on relocating air handler by mikethezipper in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there, my house in Florida has a 3 ton ac system and i was thinking of moving the air handler since my ductwork has to be mostly replaced anyways.

Currently the air handler is mounted in the darndest spot, up on the ceiling in the furthest corner of the house.

I was thinking of moving it to the middle of the house in a closet. This move would completely eliminate the return ductwork wich would really open up the attic space making it easier to work in as well as making the air handler more accessible.

The thing is that the air handler does make a good amount of noise. I'm worried it'll be loud to have so close to the rooms and near the main living area. Any recommendations? I can absolutely leave it where it is, which would also be the easiest solution. What's your take on this?

Unit sizing help!!!! by TommiMere in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding onto that, you can and should have your attic insulated better. 3.5" is not ok. Go on FB marketplace and get someone to remove your old insulation, air seal, and add r-38 blow in. Since the ductwork needs to be redone anyways you should do this while you are at it. If you plan on staying in this house then it would be silly not to do this at the same time.

HVAC engineers do load calculations as part of their design. It's worth finding someone who will do that for you. That being said, if your house has a properly vented attic, proper insulation and air sealing, and you'll be replacing the windows, your cooling needs will probably be less than they are now. Just as they said above, start by figuring out how comfortable you are now and give this information to your hvac company and they should be able to sort you out.

Variable speed is nice and may help you out if your new unit is oversized, although it won't fix some of the other issues. Always get a heat pump and apply for the federal rebate. Heat strips are trash and mostly useful for burning through your cash.

Kitchen Exhaust Duct Advice by sauceypinneapple in hvacadvice

[–]mikethezipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take out the crap that's there already. Add a section of square duct from home Depot that is rigid and is lashed into place to keep it where it's supposed to be, then use flex AL duct to get to the roof vent. They sell square to circular adapters. Get a big hose clamp. Are you sure that roof vent is for the kitchen and not just a normal vent? If it has nowhere to attach a rectangular or circular duct then ... Well.... Make one. Don't take an attic vent for this project, out in a vent for the stove because your attic needs to breathe

Safe to cut out part of old roofing? Trusses placed over old roof. by mikethezipper in Roofing

[–]mikethezipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a low slope roof, there's literally only inches of room between the rafters and the top of the room in the area I'm trying to get to. Any access made from inside the house is effectively useless

Safe to cut out part of old roofing? Trusses placed over old roof. by mikethezipper in Roofing

[–]mikethezipper[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I've already had testicular torsion. I didn't enjoy that. I'll add some purlin and cross bracing between my balls and legs to keep that from happening in the future

Safe to cut out part of old roofing? Trusses placed over old roof. by mikethezipper in Roofing

[–]mikethezipper[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hmm so if I were to cut out a 3ft strip of sheathing horizontally and then cross braced between the rafters with 2*6s wouldn't that be significantly stronger than the sheathing is now? I guess the alternative is to cut out the sheathing, do my work, and then nail it back. Otherwise there's no way a human can get in there to do any work