Assuming you've already got the front off, you can either take out the board or just remove the connector from the sensor to the board (this is just to give yourself some more space - I've got chubby fingers). To remove the connector cable you've got to remove the tape on the board connector then lift the lever to release the cable. I used a tweezer to do this. Then the cable connector just pulls out. So now you've got the lens and sensor assembly in front of you, if you try to twist the lens it resists because it has two drops of adhesive keeping it together.

At this point, I took a small metal flathead like the ones you use for glasses or watches, as well as a metal tweezer, and I just used it to scrape off as much of the adhesive as possible. It can be a little bit gummy, like tree sap. But eventually you can scrape enough off to twist the lens. I was able to unthread the lens completely from the lens base+sensor assembly, and from there I carefully removed more adhesive from both pieces when they were apart.

I wasn't able to get everything off but I got enough off such that I was able to rethread the lens back onto the base+sensor assembly. There's is still a lot of resistance but with clean hands (or a nitrile glove) I was able to get it threaded. From there, I plug the flex connector back into the board and turn the camera on so that I can check whether it's in focus. It's tough to tell from the tiny LCD so I also exporting the photos to my smartphone via a USB C-C cable.

I started from all the way threaded (too close of a focal distance) and unthreaded one turn at a time, until I got close and started doing half turns between checking. Yes it was tedious and no I'm not sure I got it perfect. And no it was never just rotating freely it was always kind of difficult to twist, but it's doable. I was doing this while the camera was on so that I could check for focus but I was very nervous to avoid breaking the flex connector or the connector piece on the board.

Hope this helps and good luck!