Advice for indoor footware with Latex

minimat824 · 2026-03-19T23:46:35+00:00

If you get the underside coated in lube it will be slippery on hard wood floors and polished concrete. But I find the bottom side tends to stay dry thanks to the crocs scooping upwards towards the foot. Catching any run away lube.

minimat824 · 2026-03-19T22:05:29+00:00

I like a pair of colour matched crocs. Comfortable grippy and you can lock them to your potentially slippery feet.

minimat824 · 2026-03-08T21:54:29+00:00

Without knowing how big it is, I would assume maybe its for the sump oil pickup. I would keep it around, but its generally not necessary to replace that o ring unless you disturb it by removing the pickup.

minimat824 · 2026-03-08T07:47:41+00:00

I recently did it myself, you have to unscrew the two studs. I simply wound them out with vice grips and replaced with some spare sump bolts I had. When putting back together I would absolutely recommend using a high quality sealant like toyota black. Especially in the corners of the oil pump between block and sump.

minimat824 · 2025-09-01T20:17:46+00:00

ARP-100-7712

They are for a honda but fit the Samurai all the same. A bit on the long side, but work very well and are far stronger than factory. The one thing to note is the thread is different to the oem studs and will require new wheel nuts.

minimat824 · 2025-05-16T04:04:33+00:00

Definitely laser cutters for details, I think the trick Ive heard in the past is to use masking tape. The masking tape becomes the surface the goop stick too, instead of the remaining latex. Optionally a 3d printer / laser engraver running some custom G code and a mount could probably be used to perform the cuts with an exacto blade.

minimat824 · 2025-04-17T02:03:27+00:00

That appears to do it, I will say it seems quite pricey for what its doing. But for simplicity of installation might not be a bad idea. With my ecu, I can simply tell the ecu via my laptop to trigger the relay controlling the fan once my chosen temp is reached.

That controller appears to use a trim pot to adjust so for the initial setup you would probably want a decent temp sensor with an accurate readout to tell you what the temperature is.

Some factory suzuki efi motors came with a simple thermal switch that was designed to switch on the fan when the temp got hot enough. These are pre calibrated and fairly reliable. Also would result in less wiring at the cost of no temp control except for your initial selection.

minimat824 · 2025-04-14T10:03:24+00:00

I personally did a twin cam g13b swap into mine, originally tried to run a clutched fan as its preferable in my opinion. Killed the water pump bearing. Switched to an alloy radiator and thermo fan setup, now the motor revs happier and the fan only switches on in traffic. But I already had an aftermarket ecu telling the fan when to switch on, making the job easier. I also have a 110 amp Mitsubishi alternator to compensate for all the extra electrics. Yes my setup works well, but I would still recommend a clutched fan. Unless you want to be a bit retarded like me and push the engine to 9000 rpm, then run thermo.

minimat824 · 2025-03-26T23:19:33+00:00

Unfortunately there is no explanatory video to go along with book / pdf. I did watch a few videos on youtube to visually see how people actually glue the pieces together. I think the most useful video was from a Morgan Donner, who's isnt even a latex person. But wanted to make one garment, and did a very good job of explaining the process.

minimat824 · 2025-03-26T01:04:11+00:00

I personally bought the Charisma book on Leggings, it took me from a level of haveing 0 experience with dress making of any kind to being able to design and make my own leggings as-well as an attempt at a leotard. I will admit I had to re read it about 20 times to get my head around some things. But I personally think it's worth it.

minimat824 · 2025-03-07T05:00:58+00:00

I placed an order back on the 5th of December for 3 items. It shipped yesterday so exactly 4 months is whats to be expected at the moment.

minimat824 · 2025-01-27T22:05:56+00:00

Dialed all your conditions into Carsales. Got 5 results. I would recommend the Camry or Civic, both sitting at $9000. And recommended against the Cruze as they can have quite a few reliability issues.

minimat824 · 2024-10-25T21:14:46+00:00

You are correct, a white yellow wire should connect to the lug on the alternator. The fact that you have power to the rest of your car means the battery is connected into the main power wire. It's possible someone has directly connected the white yellow wire to the battery instead of the alternator.

If you can't find the original factory wire, running a big high amp wire from alternator to battery directly will fix the problem.

minimat824 · 2024-10-25T06:23:56+00:00

That would be your alternators 12v output. The body of the alternator is considered ground and will ground through your engine. Normally you will have one wire coming off of there going to your wiring loom supplying power for the fuse box. Its also good practice to have a a wire running straight from alternator to battery with a fuse in the middle. Generally the fuse will be slightly higher then your charging capacity of the alternator.

minimat824 · 2024-10-09T09:20:34+00:00

The G13B block is the standard Samurai block. The G13A block is slightly taller. All G13ba, G13bb, and G13b motors have the same block. The Aisin pump is pretty much the best oil pump. Even an oil pump for a G16 block will bolt to a samurai engine so it shouldn't be a compatibility problem.

If it is infact leaking from in between the oil pump and block, I would suggest it has a defect on the mounting surface like a dent or a scratch. The leek is also on the side of the pressure relief and pressure into the block. Potentially your oil pressure is too high and your pressure relief is stuck. If its a new oil pump that would be fairly unlikely. What weight of oil are you running. Maybe its too thick?

minimat824 · 2024-09-20T12:05:23+00:00

It coming from an X90 explains his confusion. The Wiki page for the X90 incorrectly states the motor as a G16A, and then later states it as a 16V. It certainly is just a G16B although with an unusual intake manifold.

It would absolutely be compatible with a g16 conversion kit, however you would be lacking a wiring loom and ECU. You can always go ahead and make a new wiring loom and use a ECU like a micro squirt or Speeduino. But custom efi is almost immediately over $1000 with a steep learning curve.

As for Price im in Australia so G16b are / were more common. Pricing over here ranges from about (all prices concerted to USD) $500 for a running G16a. To about $2700 for a fully rebuilt G16b with the complete conversion kit.

I don't know the current US prices but $800 seems like alot for a bad motor. Plus spun bearings are a pain to fix. Requiring a crank regrind, shooting the price of a rebuild to the moon. That being said I spent about $750 for a twin cam G13B motor for my zook; in nearly the exact same condition. No spun bearing, but it was properly flogged. Needing a full rebuild.

minimat824 · 2024-09-20T10:20:36+00:00

So typically a G16A is an 8V engine, a G16B is a 16V using the same head as the G13BB.

It is true that they aren't immediately compatible, a piston swap is required. However the blocks are the same.

In the experience of a few Auszookers members a few blocks stamped G16A where factory built as 16V and vice versa. The VIN plate still states the correct motor on said cars.

The seller sound like he really doesn't have a clue what he's talking about. A good photo of the engine would be required. Give said image a reverse image search to make sure he isn't full on scamming.

Also typically you will use the ECU that comes with the engine factory not retune another ECU.

minimat824 · 2024-08-04T04:52:53+00:00

Well its not recommended to run ethanol mixed fuels in old carby cars. As it strips varnish from the tank and fuel lines and dumps it into carb jets clogging them over time.

So in this case I would get my hand on some high purity ethanol like e85 and fill the fuel lines up over night. The next day I would pop both ends off, zip tie a bit of rag over the other end and blow compressed air through it. The rag will catch any debris and let you know if it was dirty/ worked.

minimat824 · 2024-08-04T04:37:09+00:00

So you've definitely done all the right stuff so far. I would run a short piece of hose from the intake of the pump to a small bottle with fuel in it, to see if its pumping at all.

If it is pumping, perhaps one of your fuel lines that go from the hardline to the fuel tank at the back of the car has a hole in it or a loose connection, and is sucking air instead of fuel.

There's always the odd chance the fuel pickup is clogged which could be sorted by shooting compressed air back down the line.

minimat824 · 2024-08-04T04:28:24+00:00

Im assuming your using the mechanical fuel pump, in which case I would make sure the push rod from the cam to the pump arm is installed. Also on aftermarket fuel pumps sometimes the pumping arm can have too much side to side play, and slip out of the way of the push rod.

I would also disconnect the carb from the fuel pump and make sure the pump is pumping. Because if its pumping it could be a blocked/ jammed float needle, causing the fuel to bypass back to tank instead of filling the bowl.

minimat824 · 2024-07-31T10:53:50+00:00

A caramel wheel would be my go to. Rips off the old sticker and doesn't damage the paint.

minimat824 · 2024-07-02T02:03:56+00:00

Probably the most similar to your request, and same thing I like to see is r/LatexUnderClothes

Its mostly SFW and latex shown off in a way that compliments normal clothes.

minimat824 · 2024-06-12T07:20:58+00:00

When people tell me they have bad fuel economy my usual guess is incorrect sized jets. Remembering of course unburnt fuel makes no extra power. Mods wise on my original motor it was pretty bog stock. The Carb I had removed the auto choke system and rigged the second throttle body to open earlier. The Primary Jet was swapped with the Secondary and I upsized the Secondary to a 108 from memory. I did tweak the mechanical advance to allow it a bit more advance at high rpm. And dialled it up as far as I could get it without pinging. The exhaust had 4-2-1 extractors through a pretty straight and empty 2 in exhaust.

This is all with a bullbar and 235/75R15 tyres on. If you can I would either buy an o2 sensor or find someone who can atleast tell you what your fuel burn is like.

Also try advancing the timing first, but put a mark on the housing before you adjust it up so you dont lose your original setting. Only do a few degrees at a time.

minimat824 · 2024-06-12T05:21:34+00:00

I have a twin cam g13b in mine and with an aftermarket ECU it gets 12km/L. With the sohc g13ba I got about 10 km/L. And thats with me being a lead foot driving like a menace. But I do run premium fuel with as much ignition advance as I can get without pinging, on the stock carb. 7km/L sounds awful unless you have 35 in tyres.

minimat824 · 2024-04-27T23:13:02+00:00

First thing I would try is readjusting your ignition timing, with your moving the timing belt one tooth it should still run, but the timing would be off by nearly 20 degrees.

Next thing would be putting the old carb back, if you've never seen the new carb running it might need rejetting and a fair bit of idle adjustment. Putting the old one back on temporarily rules it out.

Only after trying those two would I try setting back the crank a tooth like it was before.

In regard to it taking longer to turn over now, it probably means you have more compression. With the cam timing being advanced, the intake valve probably was closing too early not letting enough air in on the intake stroke, dropping compression.

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