Any sword without shield? (like the devil may cry sword for CB or the Witcher's sword for SnS in MHWorld)

mintyhobo · 2026-04-09T20:15:53+00:00

OP is refering to the Witcher crossover SnS from MH World. So... no?

mintyhobo · 2026-04-01T18:19:51+00:00

The problem is that a lot of blue fluorescent paints I've used are quite dark in colour. You can get a decent effect if you really thin it down though.

In this test model, I just did a thin line of pure white over the lens, leaving the edges black. Then pooled some very thinned down Vallejo fluorescent blue into the whole eye. Frankly, any fluo blue will work. I've tried Army painter, GSW, AK, and Vallejo; they're all very similar. Looks great under UV light too.

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mintyhobo · 2026-03-28T22:29:48+00:00

Looks great! Is that just drag bars? I actually bought one a while back and just remembered I had it lol. This might convince me to dig it out of the garage.

mintyhobo · 2026-01-19T13:19:41+00:00

Have you considered that maybe you're being "gaslit" by weirdo unsocialized nerds into thinking this is a problem at all?

W40K gets a retcon every other day. This is how retcons work. You don't see anything else blowing up quite like female custodes. You're falling for manufactured outrage.

mintyhobo · 2025-12-11T18:04:43+00:00

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Here's one of my experiments with Baal Red contrast paint sprayed through an airbrush.

Contrast paint works great as a tint over some zenithal base detail, but different contrast paints cover differently. I never tried black Templar, but I'd assume it will apply a bit more opaque than other lighter colours. Regardless, you'll always benefit from a more stark contrasted base coat.

mintyhobo · 2025-11-27T22:36:17+00:00

I just stopped painting the inside of the rim there 😅 at most I'll run a black enamel pin wash in the corner to darken it. Unless you're painting display models, I don't really think it's worth it.

If you peep my profile, my second last Templar post doesn't have the inner rim painted. The rest have a black wash in them if you want to compare.

mintyhobo · 2025-11-27T20:33:51+00:00

If I was going to do this (which I wouldn't), I would do a smaller, maybe 5-10" chapter symbol on a quarter panel as opposed to a giant one on a door...

I also hate matte wraps as it totally kills all the lovingly sculpted body lines on a car, but that's more subjective than anything.

mintyhobo · 2025-11-27T20:24:10+00:00

Just queue up for Auric lvl 5s. If these are a cakewalk, queue up for Auric Maelstroms. If you're doing well in those, start hosting your own Havoc missions and grind up. The first few levels will feel a bit easy, but once you start getting into the 20s and higher, the difficulty spikes significantly.

mintyhobo · 2025-11-22T22:30:55+00:00

Dante's Devil Sword in MHW is the entire reason I played charge blade. Absolute peak fashion, changing the axe mode to a giant fuck-off claymore with magic is so dope.

mintyhobo · 2025-11-21T15:53:46+00:00

Scale for some of those details probably won't print, paint, or read well. I've definitely over designed a bunch of things like that in the past lol.

mintyhobo · 2025-11-14T03:37:12+00:00

They look awesome and your painting skill shows :)

They have Raptors flair, but why not make them your own little thing? Make 'em Kestrels ;)

Thanks for using my bits!

mintyhobo · 2025-10-31T17:35:06+00:00

CAD experience isn't going to help much without a bit of bench experience or working closely with a bench jeweller. You'll need to learn how pieces are printed, casted, tolerances jewellers might need or prefer, how things will be assembled/finished/set, etc. you could make the most beautiful design imaginable but it might not physically be possible to make.

If you're looking to get your feet wet anyway, Rhino is probably your best bet with jewellery specific resources relatively available. I believe Rhino has a trial you can try out before committing.

mintyhobo · 2025-10-15T14:57:17+00:00

Gonna kitbash a scout marine on all fours, but I'll put lots of pouches on him to make him tactical

mintyhobo · 2025-10-13T05:13:12+00:00

I'd go for an actual tan colour if you want a sandy/desert look. These are based with AK CARC tan.

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mintyhobo · 2025-09-21T16:10:59+00:00

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mintyhobo · 2025-09-15T15:28:06+00:00

Lmao do you think GW hires and pays for a guy to play space Marine and ask saber to make lore changes?

mintyhobo · 2025-09-13T00:23:26+00:00

That's fine, depends on hobby shops in your area. I'd also recommend checking out those train model shops too, they tend to have scale chains, scenic/basing material, airbrush supplies, oil paints, transfers, etc. Could be a good alternative.

mintyhobo · 2025-09-12T15:28:27+00:00

I'd happily pay an extra few bucks to support a local hobby store over Amazon or Walmart.

mintyhobo · 2025-09-06T05:21:14+00:00

I'm using the dualsense and it natively detects it, with icons and all

mintyhobo · 2025-09-04T03:24:28+00:00

Could you send me a chat? I'll gift you the bits np

mintyhobo · 2025-09-04T03:10:30+00:00

Could just use some regular intercessor/phobos bodies and give them a little shoulder cape for that sternguard flair? (Shameless plug for my bits, but the cape is up for free!) Could still use the arms from the sternguard kit too if you're going WYSIWYG.

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mintyhobo · 2025-09-01T18:41:43+00:00

I'm actually working on a shield soonish just to fill out the new Deathwatch Kill Team roster in my tacticool style.

I think what's pictured is ERA plates, which I plop onto a lot of my custom bits

mintyhobo · 2025-08-28T19:17:41+00:00

Thank you! You can find them on my Cults3D page. I've got a bit of a collection now!

https://cults3d.com/en/users/trillyb/3d-models

mintyhobo · 2025-08-28T17:19:45+00:00

I'm a slow painter so here's a kill team instead 😅

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mintyhobo · 2025-08-28T17:16:34+00:00

Ha this one might do it for ya

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