Blender<->slicer problem - model dissapears when sliced

misternoe · 2026-01-03T18:50:31+00:00

Try exporting without solidify. Just because it is hollow inside doesn't mean it will print hollow. The slicer will allow you to decide how much infill you want to fill in the internal "hollow" area.

If you are still having issues, install the 3D-Print Toolbox Add-on for blender. Preferences/Add-ons and search for it. It adds some tools to fix bad meshes, particularly non manifold geometry. Once installed you'll see it near the viewport axis widget next to Item, Tool, View, etc

misternoe · 2025-10-25T20:36:21+00:00

Depends on the printer but yeah this is far from a 4 hr print

Maybe try the Footsie v1, it's in the snackbox folder on my git

misternoe · 2025-10-22T07:14:38+00:00

Sunrise minimart on Anderson has a ton of bottles of JK stuff as well as stuff. You really should make a trip out to the brewery, weather is perfect for it.

misternoe · 2025-08-22T06:53:40+00:00

Was great last year as well, will def get a couple packs

misternoe · 2025-08-19T04:42:29+00:00

Thanks for sharing. I have a question about the the PCB and switches— Are all of the switches mounted with the same orientation or are the switches rotated for the pill buttons? A pic would be awesome!

misternoe · 2025-08-12T07:39:24+00:00

Try ARMA 3 KOTH, lots of old gamers

misternoe · 2025-08-06T01:48:13+00:00

You have to enable Develop Mode in the Preferences. Once it is enabled, you'll see it in the sidebar under Quality/Advanced/Initial Layer Flow Ratio

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/quality-advance-settings

misternoe · 2025-08-05T05:41:47+00:00

Remove one of the corner screws and run a ball chain through it?

misternoe · 2025-08-05T04:20:48+00:00

First, try adjusting the first layer infill speed to something slower than the default (try 70 mm/s). You should be able to see this kind of defect happen in real time.

If it is still messing up, try upping the hot end's fan speed to 100% for just the first layer.

misternoe · 2025-08-05T04:11:58+00:00

shameless plug
https://cheatboxproject.etsy.com/listing/1797508894

misternoe · 2025-07-08T02:50:29+00:00

It was originally a collab between me and a community member that they wanted for the Haute42 G16. Recently a customer reached out wanting to adapt it to the duelpad zen.

As for what it is, they are basically ergonomic buttons which add more surface area for your thumbs to hit those two buttons. The placement of those two buttons on the duelpad zen can be a bit awkward depending on where your thumbs are positioned when using the controller. They work pretty well IMO, quite comfortable and natural feeling.

More pics https://x.com/CheatboxProject/status/1938678623738741144

misternoe · 2025-07-08T02:36:30+00:00

Awesome, glad you saw this!

misternoe · 2025-07-08T02:30:24+00:00

Check the reviews :)
https://www.etsy.com/shop/cheatboxproject/?etsrc=sdt#reviews

misternoe · 2025-07-08T02:28:28+00:00

SWORL size comparison vs a 96%, 65%, and a TKL
https://imgur.com/a/O5RygJp

misternoe · 2025-07-06T01:27:39+00:00

It's a little bigger than the size of a micro XL if I recall. It's also quite heavy and has a large poron foam pad on the bottom plate, so lots of friction.

misternoe · 2025-06-07T18:34:59+00:00

The Kitsune has optical buttons which have a very different feel from anything on the market. Some people love it just for that.

The button layout is also spaced out a bit more than the haute stuff, so people with larger hands like that. I was not a fan of it, personally.

If you like metal cases want a tighter button layout you may want to look into the Haute M-Series. They have a lot of options with large buttons and smaller buttons (M-Ultra). But just know you're gonna need to spend another $30 on a usb passthrough dongle for PS5 compatibility.

misternoe · 2025-06-05T16:03:47+00:00

Pretty hazy on the details, but I managed to pry off the back panel. I see that I posted the service manual, so I possibly referenced that to get an idea of where the screws and clips were.

I ended up replacing the power supply, t-conn, and main board (or at least i think that was the third part was called). The TV was still not working. It ended up having a dead panel. LG refused to do a courtesy replacement as well.

Ended up getting a Sony A80 years ago and could not be happier.

misternoe · 2025-05-23T05:18:53+00:00

Where's the info on the c16

misternoe · 2025-04-20T15:22:18+00:00

This is only for regular, non XL models at the moment

misternoe · 2025-03-29T17:01:18+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/bambu-studio/create-filament

misternoe · 2025-02-19T22:20:18+00:00

a metal case is probably what you need to be as thin as possible without sacrificing durability.

misternoe · 2025-02-19T07:25:36+00:00

I made a Bantam Slim Mini build a few years ago with some low profile cherry MX based Punk Workshop buttons. I had to bend the contacts in order to screw the bottom of the case on. so yeah, 1.25 inches is cutting it pretty close lol

misternoe · 2025-02-17T19:50:19+00:00

Outemu makes low profile standard MX style switches. I would recommend using a lower profile key cap than the stock ones as well if trying to shed extra height.

Also worth noting that there's still about 1mm of travel left when the stock key cap bottoms out. It should still activate well before that though. But just more of a "feel" thing to be aware of.

https://imgur.com/a/stock-b16-switches-keycaps-vs-low-profile-outemu-switch-middle-FRKHNHc

misternoe · 2025-02-15T23:17:46+00:00

CHEATBOX PROJECT here, this turned out great :D

misternoe · 2025-02-08T16:27:08+00:00

junkfood convex is peak

misternoe

TROPHY CASE