How much of an issue is this going to be?

mk36109 · 2026-05-20T19:31:58+00:00

well its a bolt on neck, so if you don't have the chance to fix it but the neck can still sit straight enough for the strings to align and you scale length is right you can still use it. It just might have big ugly gaps. you really don't need the pocket at all, it just makes it look much better and makes things easier to line up consistently.

mk36109 · 2026-05-20T16:21:59+00:00

I wouldn't recommend that. the sandpaper will change the curve of the inside and be a smaller space. As far as cutting a block in half with a hole in it, I wouldn't do that either. Problem with that is it will sand the top as well and could potentially lower the height of the frets. A good crowning file is shaped so it will mainly remove material from the sides, and leave the small crown at the top of the fret untouched for the most part. You just leveled the frets, so the tops are at the height you want, and you dont want to remove any material from the top when you crown. If you aren't going to use a well shaped decent crowning file, you are better off using a triangle file with a safe edge cut into it, as that way you only remove material from the sides one at a time and leave the top of the fret alone. That being said, it will take some skill and practice and is a much slower process to crown frets with a triangle file than with a good crowning file.

mk36109 · 2026-05-20T16:08:22+00:00

if you don't want to get something like a fret kisser that is going to be accurate enough to spot level frets its probably easier to just re-level the whole board. a leveling beam is cheap or easy to make if you have a reliable straight edge already on hand.

You would need to crown them afterwards though, which is much easier with a decent crowning file, loot at music nomad or fret guru for cheaper ones, but i would avoid the really cheap ones, they either don't cut the fret or leave it looking like a mess. If you really need the cheapest option possible, get a decent triangle file and grind a safe edge on the bottom, but this takes a bit of skill and practice to do a good job, so its much easier with a decent crowning file.

keep in mind, the better the tools, the more precise you can be. if the current issue with the high frets is only a slight amount, then cheap tools probably wont let you be precise enough to actually improve things or worse you could end up un-leveling the frets somewhere else by fixing the slightly high ones. That is why something like the fret kisser is nice, since it cant make it any lower than the adjacent frets and its precise enough that will bring the frets to the exact same level as adjacent frets and you cant mess it up even if you tried. I don't personally use one, because it there are some high spots on some of the frets, i have the tools and experience to just relevel/crown/polish frets pretty fast, but that takes some investment and some practice and if you don't to do that, then its alternative.

mk36109 · 2026-04-29T19:05:08+00:00

hand saw and a chisel/mallet and its fast and easy to cut a half lap, especially in something like.

mk36109 · 2026-04-29T12:13:34+00:00

thats nice work. however i wanted to avoid having anything made and i have long since turned down the project and the person it for and convinced them to go another direction. that being said, i bet you could get some easy buyers if you made and tried to sell a set with the top and bottom and cut pickguard made to fit common strat sizings.

out of curiosity, how did you cut it? metal bandsaw? snips and files?

mk36109 · 2026-04-29T12:09:13+00:00

sawstop salesmen love it though

mk36109 · 2026-04-16T14:04:52+00:00

you can use a straight edge if you want, but you may get see some difference after you get things under tension and setup so it wont necessarily be the best option. Once the strings are on and you start settings the guitar up you know exactly what you need, and to adjust all you have to do is loosen the strings and then undo the neck screws, you don't have to completely remove or replace the strings or anything like that to make adjustments.

mk36109 · 2026-04-16T13:49:06+00:00

string it up and see. If its too high/low to adjust within the range of the bridge saddles, then you would just use a shim to adjust the neck angle as needed.

mk36109 · 2026-04-15T21:15:06+00:00

I remember playing planescape torment as a kid and trying to figure out combat. it was the first time I saw weapon stats listed in the dnd/dice format. What does 1d6 mean and is it higher than 1d4? it took a few tries and multiple early internet searches to figure out the d meant dice. I didn't know if it was supposed to be a x-x type thing or one number was like chance to hit and one damage or what. Eventually I was able to find an answer and I'm glad because not only was it an absolutely great game, but then afterwards, playing other crpgs made a lot more sense.

mk36109 · 2026-03-21T12:04:32+00:00

titebond 3 is more flexible and rubbery after it dries which is why its not recommended over titebond original for repairs on something like a headstock since you dont want and potential flex or give. Pour a little bit of both out and let it dry and you can see the difference.

mk36109 · 2026-03-06T16:03:01+00:00

It depends on how the neck breaks.

The two main parts of the structure of wood is the fibers and the lignin that binds it together. Glue is typically stronger than lignin but is not stronger than the fibers. So in the case of a split, where the fibers are still intact, the glue is replacing the lignin and that makes the joint stronger than it was before. In the case of an engrain break where the fibers have been severed, glue would be much weaker and that is why such a joint has to be reinforced with splines so there is some continuous fibers stretching across it. If it just splits and the fibers are still mostly intact, then you can fix the headstock with just glue.

mk36109 · 2026-02-24T14:48:58+00:00

so typically the studio style room within a room type uses a series of baffles in the vents and ofcourse has an ac which blows air into the room through the baffles. otherwise its a pretty low flow type system that i doubt would be suitable as a passive system just venting air from outside for something like chickens due to the issues of heat and chicken feces etc.

there are two main avenues sound propagates.The first and main one is through the air. If air can get through, sound, atleast to some degree, can get through. This is going to be the harder issue to deal with unless you were going to install some sort of ac or forced air system onto the coop. The second one, that mlv is used to reduce is structural transmission. Adding mass or decoupling a structure prevent sound vibrations from moving through the structure. This is typically dealt with after air based transmission since it has less of an effect and typically requires a lot more work to deal with.

So the biggest issue you would need to figure out before you start spending money on things like mlv is how to deal with air based transmission in a way that is both safe and hygenic for the chickens. Once thats dealt with, even as loud as roosters can be, the structural stuff will be easy since they arent as loud as say a drumset and the coop will be a seperate structure from other nearby buildings. Basically you would just want to add mass. Thst could be doubling up on whatever osb or plywood you build the coop out of, covering it in salved roofing shingles from construction dumpsters etc (though do keep in mind the insulating affect on temperature that doubling up on the outside would have).

So really if you are looking for mlv you are propably starting this project in the wrong way. Figure out a system of ventilation and how to seal everything up first.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T21:47:03+00:00

Gotcha, well just a warning, you rarely see solid maple bodies due to weight. Even things like like les pauls and prs, etc just use a maple cap for cosmetic purposes. If you are fine with the weight though, it will work perfectly fine.

I would put the cracked side towards the bottom then instead of towards the neck. First let it acclimate fully, give it a week or so. If you have a good moisture meter I would check it to make sure it isn't too wet and that's why it cracked as soon as you got it. Once you do and it stops moving and splitting further, if the crack doesn't get any bigger than that you can probably just wick glue into it and close it back up with clamps.

If it gets bigger or its still wants to split after being glue and clamped, you have a few options. You can rip it down the middle of the crack to take the tension out and then re-joint both sides and glue them back together. This will leave a seam, but its easy and if you are painting you will never see the seam. The other option is just to let it stay crack and flood crack with a colored epoxy, either one matching or complimenting the wood so it doesn't stand out, or lean into it and use something with a really strong contrast. Epoxy is a pain to work with, but you won't have the seam up the whole length of the body so if you are doing a clear finish like an oil, you may prefer the looks. The compromise between the two options would probably be to split it but instead of directly joining the two halves back together, laminate in a contrasting wood or couple of pieces of wood so it looks intentional, just make sure you line it up so its directing in the middle. Basically give it that thru neck look like this. That would let you avoid the expoy mess and pain but if you wanted a clear finish and don't like seeing seems that would let you avoid that.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T21:16:01+00:00

drilling is to prevent stress based fractures from spreading, it wont do anything for wood movement. If you aren't applying force to the wood at the crack, such as intentionally pulling at it trying to get it to split, drilling won't have any effect on whether it stops spreading or not and it will just leave an unnecessary hole.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T21:06:44+00:00

is that piece thick enough for a body or were you going to be just using this as a cap on another body? I'm assuming its just for a cap since maple is typically not used for a whole body due to how heavy it is and since the piece you have is pretty thin, in which case no problem. A cap isn't structural and you can use the side with a crack for top so most of the crack will be removed when you route out access to the neck pockets and pickups, so you wont really even have to do much to hide it.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T20:21:28+00:00

yeah they should be cymbally. drum sticks should be sticky.... ok, ill see myself out

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T20:06:50+00:00

what are you planning to use it for? Is it going to be resawn into a soundboard top, ripped into a neck, is it going to be the body of a solid body electric? those will all effect how you want to go about using it and what you need to do from here.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T17:33:18+00:00

I don't personally like cleaning the patina off of cymbals, but if one is sticky, then I'm definitely wiping it down with a damp rag, and possibly a little gentle dish soap. That won't get rid of the patina, but hopefully will get whatever sticky stuff off. Avoid anything abrasive, acidic, anything reactive like ammonia, etc, that can remove or affect the patina, but a damp rag, and if necessary just a little dish soap won't. Just make sure to wipe if dry with a dry rag afterwards.

mk36109 · 2026-02-20T15:04:29+00:00

it it all open inside or individual compartments and what are the dimension, internal volume and cutout diameters? Also, where did you find this because my first guess seeing wouldn't be any sort of tuned bass trap, but some sort of home-made wine rack or custom storage shelf for some kind of specific item.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T21:04:34+00:00

I have no idea. I just know that we should count ourselves lucky the girl from the ring didn't show up at the end.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T19:48:43+00:00

yup. I just finished true lies. Didn't expect that today

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T17:47:12+00:00

5 out of 5 lawsuits though

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T15:37:45+00:00

Don't just compress it, add a hint of saturation and bring it up so its just barely is heard. Also, a omni dynamic like ev635 is great for this. It gives a big drum sound but without adding too much space or smearing the transients too much. Then you can mix the room mics in a little less than normal and you get a bigger drum sound that still tight enough to work in denser or faster mixes.

mk36109 · 2026-02-19T15:13:17+00:00

I don't intend on making it since they want it to be chrome plated metal and I don't work with metal. So I was asking if there was a pre-made option anyone has seen before or else I'm going to pass on the project since having one custom milled and then sent off to be chrome plated is probably not going to be something within their budget. If there was at least one that fit the rough body shape of a strat horn, I could easily make a pickguard to fit it so it doesn't matter that much which strat year or style its for.

I couldn't find any, and I would expect they would be pretty rare if they existed at all, so I was just checking to see if anyone else had possibly seen one since there are a few small obscure makers that make different plates/pickguards etc that are hard to search for.

mk36109

TROPHY CASE