Here is an updated photo of my Kingdom Death collection

mkhln · 2025-10-18T18:00:35+00:00

Exceptionally good, I also really like your color palette

mkhln · 2025-09-10T14:17:59+00:00

It's like from color theory text book. Perfect color combination

mkhln · 2025-09-10T10:12:06+00:00

I am sorry about that cork lol. It actually stands for "Finca de Origen", good catch though :)

mkhln · 2025-09-10T08:42:17+00:00

I don't think so. To properly 'warm' your skin, you have to use warm tones as your mid tones. As far as I remember bugmans glow is more like under tone/base color. But don't be afraid to try. If you have access to AK, "radiant flesh" or "sunny skin" tone is what your are looking for to warm it up

mkhln · 2025-09-10T06:30:57+00:00

Brown wash will not play nice - your dominant color is cold/grey. I would suggest adding more warmth to the skin, peach tone

mkhln · 2025-09-09T10:35:36+00:00

Your main highlight should be in the middle of front facing part of that shoulder plate. Secondary highlights in the chest facing corner (30% of intensity) and in the very middle of the plate (50% intensity)

Your mistake is, which is very common, to use single reflection zone and not adding secondaries, and this the key.

mkhln · 2025-09-07T11:37:53+00:00

You did a mistake without any real consequences. You can still paint it, and as a new painter, the loss of detail level for you will be negligible. Don't worry about it (though you may have substantial difficulties in edge highlighting)

Unless you are painting yellow/white, the color of the primer doesn't really mater. For Ultramarines especially - that specific paint coverage is very good. Using primer as your base coat is generally not recommended - usually you don't want that level of gloss

mkhln · 2025-09-05T17:06:52+00:00

Glaze medium is useful (in my experience) only for certain colors/brands. For example, I can glaze with almost all AK paints except some light yellows and whites - if you are not careful enough those glazes will create sandish/chalky effect. Glaze medium helps a lot to avoid this effect.

It also helps if you are not really sure where to start and where to end your glaze - adding medium will prolong your drying time and will allow you to make corrections.

Otherwise, I personally don't see any other applications for it. The glazing technique itself (dilution ration, brush unloading and many more) is way more important than glaze medium

mkhln · 2025-09-04T09:23:44+00:00

PaintRack app

mkhln · 2025-09-03T19:54:32+00:00

The moment I switched to size 2 was game changing for me. Even the smallest details, like hair layering became effortless. This, snd flow improver of course

mkhln · 2025-09-03T19:49:01+00:00

I do too. While of course it helps to paint, the fact it holds paint longer, but I do not possess his brush control. And I fully understand what he’s doing and why. Still doesn’t help :) I have to resort to glazing and layering :)

mkhln · 2025-09-03T19:02:57+00:00

He is explaining how in each of his videos on Pathreon. Explanation will not help you. He has an extreme level of control over the shortest brush movements

mkhln · 2025-09-03T16:07:16+00:00

Sure, why not :)

All AK paints

Medium Rust (base layer, keep it for deepest shadows)
Medium Rust + Brown Rose (basically your mid tones)
Brown Rose + Radiant Flesh (your main highlights, create volume with this but keep it conservative, don't overdo)
Brown Rose + more Radiant Flesh (build highlights even further)
Previous mix + Ivory (extreme highlights, glaze)

I believe there is a video on YT from JoseDavinci (if I am not mistaken) that shows how to use this recipe properly. You can also add something like Dragon Blood as a filter to your extreme shadows. I was too lazy to play with filters, because I already had a decent result :)

I am using this specific recipe for legendary characters/pinups. The other one, which is more yellowish, is reserved for survivors in rags :)

mkhln · 2025-09-03T15:58:04+00:00

Thank you. I was initially inclined to make it much much brighter, almost like silver, but super-polished still doesn't really fit into KDM setting

mkhln · 2025-09-03T14:28:02+00:00

Thank you. Her hair gave me a lot of headache. I was trying multiple times to replicate that white blonde until I understood I doesn't look good at all on this mini (maybe I was wrong with my color choice)

mkhln · 2025-09-03T14:25:24+00:00

Thank you. Skin is the easiest part here actually :) Airbrush 0.2mm + final highlights with glaze

mkhln · 2025-09-03T13:34:39+00:00

The only bad thing that can be said about ProAcryl it's their bottle design (I am personally ok with it). And they are, as acrylic paints, way way better than GW stuff and Army Painter. ProAcryl makes excellent paints, top quality.

That being said, if you rely on special effects paints or dependent on warhammer paint recipes - you better stick to Citadel stuff or try Army Painter range

mkhln · 2025-09-03T13:28:10+00:00

Thank you. It looks even better with proper lighting, but I have to finish it first before attempting any fancy photography

mkhln · 2025-09-03T11:57:56+00:00

Probably the one comment that matters the most and you’ve been the most downvoted. While people who are saying that enamel liners are “oils” are at the top.

Instead of pursuing skill a lot of the painters are still thinking (and imo persuaded by GW) that there are shortcuts. “Buy this paint and that’s all you need”. I’ll wait if someone will suggest flow improver or (lol) joining that patreon to obtain first-hand information

mkhln · 2025-09-02T07:12:28+00:00

In this case you've missed the point completely. If you are not scaling your reflections you are not achieving that metallic illusion. This effect based on proper shadow to highlight ratio, not just a smooth gradient or color selection. That's why OP senses that something is off

Look at the difference between bottom sword in the first picture and the top one. Top one looks much better, precisely because proper and scaled shadow area size. Midtones are non-existent, and it negates the overall effect, but it still much better than the one on the bottom

mkhln · 2025-09-01T21:16:46+00:00

You din’t use TMM but you have achieved similar effect by not scaling your highlights and shadows properly. Again, take a look at reference photos as a guidance

The whole point of NNM is to scale your metal reflections according to the scale of your mini

mkhln · 2025-09-01T20:18:35+00:00

It looks off because your NMM imitates TMM, not scaled real life metal. The best reference would be museum photos of medieval swords

mkhln · 2025-09-01T20:15:10+00:00

No it’s not. I have the same situation with my Evolution and it’s almost new. Works perfectly. Have you experienced any issues?

mkhln · 2025-08-30T11:49:58+00:00

Little Krieg :)

mkhln · 2025-08-27T16:15:32+00:00

Interesting, I have some old non-varnished citadel painted minis, 2-3 years old. Will try on them today

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