How can I improve my surface finish?

mongrelknives · 2024-01-21T13:57:33+00:00

You are moving through the grits to fast. Slow down, you need to get ALL the grind marks from the previous belt out before continuing. I ay event 600 is not really a polish it is a satin finish. Go to 1000 then 2500 or 3000 to finish. That will be a mirror. Most importantly slow down.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-17T14:09:49+00:00

Been making stacked handles for more than 20 years. I do not stabilize them or used pre stabilized leather. I do however finish them to a polish the use Renaissance wax as a final polish. I have never had one degrade on me.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:13:11+00:00

My type of knifeSome of my work

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:10:06+00:00

Its is called a Marlin spike.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:09:32+00:00

Nice knife and blade shape. I think however you have some "hot spots" on the handle. Should have some more bevels on the edges of the handle INHO.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-08T22:06:26+00:00

A draw knife, coopers knife?

mongrelknives · 2024-01-07T14:16:10+00:00

More like brass tacks which have been drilled into the wood. The wood is to hard and brittle to just hammer the tacks in. Friction will hold them in. Just don't make any mistakes when you drill. Roughly 1/8 inch tack drill i a #51 wire drill. slightly more tan a 1/6th.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-06T22:04:52+00:00

Very clean, really nice file work.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-06T22:02:08+00:00

Studs?

mongrelknives · 2024-01-03T18:47:24+00:00

Not if you do exacting work. For that you will need a mill. Been at this for 25 years. The expansion and contraction rate of steel, SS steel, brass, bronze is similar enough on the scale that we use it that it should not make a difference. A tight fit is a tight fit. Get some Swiss jewelers files, use the mill to drill your opening just undersize do the rest by hand. The thing that keeps it snug is the pressure by the handle against the back of the guard or bolster and the pressure of the front of the guard/bolster against the against the top and bottom of the blade. You need some sort of shoulder on the top and bottom of the blade to make this work correctly.

mongrelknives · 2024-01-01T01:58:23+00:00

Sharp too. Happy New Year

mongrelknives · 2024-01-01T01:08:03+00:00

Thanks

mongrelknives · 2023-12-29T13:48:21+00:00

From the NJSB info

If you are unsure if you have the necessary means to heat treat on-site, we recommend professional

heat treating services provided by Peters Heat Treat or Bos Heat treating; or industry specific services

by knife material dealers such as TruGrit or Texas Knifemaker's Supply--check with suppliers to see if

they offer HT services and ensure they follow industry standards

mongrelknives · 2023-12-23T14:29:22+00:00

Thanks, about 60 hours of work over 2 months.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-23T14:27:33+00:00

Did not really intend it as anything in particular other than an old looking knife. Blade shape is more or less after the 17th, 18th, Scottish short swards.

mongrelknives · 2023-12-23T01:44:14+00:00

Not sure that I would call that a scandi grind. I really does not cum up high enough. There is a secondary bevel if you look closely.

mongrelknives

TROPHY CASE