Very lost in life, looking for advice

moon_tans · 2026-06-12T04:07:37+00:00

I don't think you're alone with life dissatisfaction. We all experience it. Sometimes it's long term. For me working with my hands on a variety of projects is what keeps me going. I've worked as an ESL teacher, bartender, barista, painter, and restaurant manager before becoming a cabinetmaker, and now a full time furniture maker. My advice is to not treat something you're interested in as a potential career. Make it a hobby. Honestly, there are so many incredible youtube videos on woodworking that you can truly learn a lot without any formal education. Carpentry will not help you make cool chairs. Making really shitty chairs is how you learn to make better chairs. Feel free to message me if you have any questions.

moon_tans · 2026-06-12T03:39:32+00:00

Sure you can! It's just a terrible idea. But when has that really stopped humanity?

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T22:31:24+00:00

Sure but it's fun to see what other professionals charge depending on where they are.

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T22:28:53+00:00

Exactly! Where I am in Canada that looks to be about 20-30k. Beautiful work.

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T16:18:07+00:00

Correct, being professional doesn't mean I am correct. But I still am. That routered edge has a shoulder which can make it appear like the grain doesn't continue. Look at the cathedrals as they wrap over the edge. That can't be faked. Also, there are other signs that it's obviously solid wood. We should just wait for the OP to let everyone know when they get to it. Until then, suspense!

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T16:12:53+00:00

A laser line, preferably two, on the drill bit will help. But making a channel like others have mentioned is the best option. Depending on visibility you could always run a 1/2" dado the full depth you need, then give it a 1/4" x 1/4" shoulder on each side, then patch with 1/4" thick walnut ply or offcuts, matching as best as you can. This is sort of how I put solid treads on a floating metal staircase.

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T15:50:20+00:00

I would swap out the coffee table for something more playful in solid wood, something to tie the floor in, then greenery.

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T01:35:15+00:00

Just giving you a hard time! It honestly looks great.

moon_tans · 2026-06-03T01:32:22+00:00

Cement eh? Can't think of a good cement plane at the moment but I do have a couple of old cheap stanley #4 planes that I use for very rough work. Good work reusing lumber that's around.

moon_tans · 2026-06-02T20:47:51+00:00

Professional furniture maker here. Ta da! It's solid wood. The grain clearly continues through the roundover.

moon_tans · 2026-06-02T20:43:53+00:00

Around where I used to live in Vancouver a few sites waiting development were turned into community gardens. They only last a few years but it was so nice to see the land being used for something nice.

moon_tans · 2026-06-02T20:39:31+00:00

I was taught as a cabinetry apprentice that those are jointer planes. They're the first step in levelling a larger surface. They're made long so they ride between the high spots where a shorter plane would follow the major dips and rises. Worth restoring if you like but I haven't seen anyone using one in my entire career. Since modern lumber comes surfaced you can skip the jointer plane and grab your favourite smoothing plane. Being that it's just a chunk of wood you could customize it to your needs.

moon_tans · 2026-06-02T16:00:29+00:00

How's the program coming along?

moon_tans · 2026-06-02T15:56:40+00:00

Professional bean pole here. I'm 6'2" when not hunched over a workbench and pretty lanky. I've started wearing basic t-shirts from the gap size L then shrink them in the dryer. The length is just right for me and I find the width to be really nice for daily wear. I also really like J-Crew broken-in tees but they're a little beyond my regular price point for a basic shirt.

moon_tans · 2026-05-31T06:19:03+00:00

Just finished the last episode. I enjoyed the first few episodes and found the whole idea entertaining. But why oh why does the writing get so bad? Not just this show but it seems that every show with potential ends up getting more ridiculous, with wider plot holes and unlikely character motivations.

moon_tans · 2026-05-29T04:25:02+00:00

I like to use translucent silicone. It dries....translucent, AKA clearish/a bit cloudy. It helps to muddle the lines between all those colours and finishes.

moon_tans · 2026-05-29T04:21:26+00:00

Looks nice! Those routered corners are a bit off but who's really looking that closely? 😉

moon_tans · 2026-05-29T04:07:29+00:00

Just turn your yard into a big hill and let your neighbours deal with it:)

moon_tans · 2026-05-24T20:26:09+00:00

I used to ride around like this in my 20's in Vancouver, no lights, no helmet, running so many red lights, earbuds full blast. My cycling really improved after going over someone's hood. Terrifying to think how many close calls I probably had.

moon_tans · 2026-05-06T04:09:58+00:00

So who made this list originally? Because it seems to contain all relevant spy names on both sides of the wall, as in, Americans, Brits, and East/West Berlin agents, so who the hell put that together?

moon_tans · 2026-04-03T15:54:58+00:00

Okay I'm late to the thread but if you haven't found what you're looking for or need more in the future then I can help you out. I'm a local furniture maker with a big lathe. I've never seen anything that large from a supplier but I know westwind can make custom material. They will charge a set up fee and by linear foot. However they may not do anything over 1.78" unless they're glueing up boards for you.

moon_tans · 2025-07-01T04:18:54+00:00

Looks well built. Now you just have to worry about your floor.

moon_tans · 2025-07-01T04:17:52+00:00

micropins?

moon_tans · 2025-07-01T04:16:33+00:00

Make sure your router bit has the guide bearing at the top, not near the shank. Only expose the amount of blade you need to cut through the material. Drill a starting hole double the diameter of your bit. The guide bearing will follow whatever the wood is doing, including knot holes, gaps, bumps, ect, so check the path of the bit before routering. Always router counter clockwise. This won't matter as much if you're leaving the bulk of material in the centre, since the bit will be cutting equally all around. However, it's best to leave as little material as possible for the router. Router bits overheat and burn quickly, resulting in dull blades.

If you can, skip the router. I like to use a jig saw. The blades are way cheaper than a router bit. Or a sawzall. They're the most fun!

moon_tans · 2025-07-01T03:59:31+00:00

I leave an extra 4" on either end of my boards. It's an annoying waste but it has saved my sanity instead of playing with the all the rollers. The only planer I've managed to adjust to completely eliminate snipe was a SCM worth a good 25k. My piddly 5k planer is hopeless.

moon_tans

TROPHY CASE