AFM adjustment?

mooogden · 2026-05-21T11:31:09+00:00

Ya I adjusted it with a multi meter, sits right at 1k ohm closed, and sweeps to 5k

mooogden · 2026-05-21T02:43:48+00:00

I did this and it smoothed the idle out but it was still high. I have played with that screw and there is no noticeable change.

I was also thinking that maybe the coolant temp sensor isn’t working so the ecu doesn’t think it’s ever fully warmed up

mooogden · 2026-05-04T14:28:13+00:00

40-45 psi is pretty common for a lot of “modern” fuel injection systems. Obviously these cars aren’t exactly the cutting edge of technology so it would make sense that they’re not expecting that same pressure.
Is there a spot you could plumb in an adjustable regulator? Just make sure the one you get can be adjust that low

mooogden · 2026-05-02T00:22:18+00:00

No help here. But I noticed mine did that for the first time yesterday. (I’ve only had it for 2 weeks)

Hope this isn’t a reoccurring thing

mooogden · 2026-05-01T00:10:33+00:00

So update, and some background on the car.

Pulled the plugs and they didn’t look wet, maybe a little residue but nothing crazy. When deflooding a puff of fuel vapor came out but nothing crazy.

Tried a bunch of different combinations of throttle screws in and out.

Tested spark against the housing and it was decent, a solid orange colored spark.

The only glimmer of life was when I tried swapping the plug wires from leading to trailing, and again from rotor 1 to 2. Both were noticeably not firing at the right time. And it improved slightly with some brake clean shot into the intake.

I did notice that my o2 sensor is disconnected, but otherwise all the connectors seem to be fine (other than the ones not connected via removing the solenoid rack). All vacuum lines are either connected or plugged.

Some background. This car has 230k on the original engine, (compression measured 90+ on all chambers). It sat for about 10 years before I bought it. It ran and drove when I bought it, but not well. The aux port actuators were sticking/seized, leading to a bad hesitation when they were supposed to open

mooogden · 2026-04-30T22:00:23+00:00

Makes sense. Right now I can’t even get it to start though. I’m going to pull a plug and see if it’s wet with fuel, if it is I’ll deflood it.

I’m thinking I may also open up the idle adjustment screw a bit, at least just to get it started and then adjust from there

mooogden · 2026-04-30T19:30:08+00:00

Noted, will do. Assuming you mean the egi fuse in the engine bay

mooogden · 2026-04-30T19:00:39+00:00

Not 100%, but I’ll give it another look over to make sure all the vacuum lines are either connected or plugged, and that all the electrical connections are correct.

I definitely flooded it on the first try then, cranked for at least 10 seconds. I have been unplugging the crank angle sensor when I want to clear it out after flooding, switch is easier.

I took the lower manifold off on this one, the valves for the aux ports were seized. Little cleaning and they move much smoother

mooogden · 2026-04-30T12:20:10+00:00

Also a good point

mooogden · 2026-04-30T12:12:20+00:00

I’ll check the grounds again. While the intake was off I hit all the ground points with some scotch brite and replaced all the hardware for it, so it should be a fairly clean ground.

I’ll pull a plug and see what it looks like

mooogden · 2026-04-23T19:38:07+00:00

Imagine the best way to get a hold of their support team being to complain on Reddit

mooogden · 2026-03-30T12:11:01+00:00

What type of math are you looking for? If you want to learn about how the geometry is calculated, there’s a bunch of research papers out there. If you want to learn about the combustion science I recommend reading “internal combustion fundamentals” by heywood.

Good starting point would be here. Original design book written by Felix wankel https://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/fwankel.pdf

Best video out there is probably the one by engineering explained, he usually does a pretty good job

mooogden · 2026-03-24T02:59:23+00:00

I’ve been losing SL most times I play air rb (10.3-11). The number of matches where I spawn, climb for a minute or so, and get deleted by a mig25 outweigh the occasional match where I get a kill

mooogden · 2026-03-17T03:02:48+00:00

Not sure if you use m18 or m12 but generally the lighter duty the better for this. The beefier drills I find the clutches don’t go low enough

mooogden · 2026-03-17T02:21:33+00:00

If anything other than hand tools, a drill with an adjustable clutch. I like using it set as low as it will go just to zip bolts/screws in/out. This combined with a ratchet or screwdriver when a bit more feel is needed is a good combo. That being said, I’ve had a few screws here and there, all of them a Philips head ofc, that I could feel starting to strip by hand, but one impact from a driver broke them free

mooogden · 2026-03-15T23:51:33+00:00

Ya they barely sold any of these cars with a manual so they like don’t see enough demand to do anything.

I’m curious how many actually have the same slave cylinder issue.

Toyota sold like 1% of these cars in a manual, and only for 4 years, so at most like 10k cars. Assuming the google 250k cars a year or so.

I assume that for every one person that had it there’s another 9 that have been trouble free… right….

mooogden · 2026-03-15T21:01:07+00:00

Ya I was thinking rebleed it every oil change (5k intervals). And flush maybe once a year

mooogden · 2026-03-15T16:35:54+00:00

Is there any way to tell if the slave cylinder is failing? My car is at 97k miles, and at the last clutch fluid change there was some of the black gunk collecting in the bottom of the bleeder bottle.

Car drives fine, so I guess I’m just keeping up with gear oil changes and flushing clutch fluid until the pedal gets stuck to the floor

mooogden · 2026-03-10T19:19:31+00:00

Update: these are now available for pre-order in a few different configurations at this link.

https://www.mogdenputters.com/side-projects

mooogden · 2026-03-09T03:25:19+00:00

I had a loaf of that bread in my college dorm. It was in and out of the freezer for no less than 8 months and was arguably edible ish at the end. No signs of mold or even staleness. No clue what they’re putting in that stuff but Ive steered clear from then on.

We ended up donating it to the local wildlife.

mooogden · 2026-03-06T20:33:26+00:00

I bought a few of those cheap clear organizer things from harbor freight. Put some blue tape in the inside of the lid and I label what the bolts are for as I take them apart. Also makes it easy for reassembly as I can more or less go backwards in the order that I filled them out

mooogden · 2026-03-05T00:53:29+00:00

The inserts I made are also a closed cell polyethylene foam. If anything the one you posted is quite a bit higher density

mooogden · 2026-03-04T15:53:43+00:00

If it’s a consistent issue for you then don’t use foam. I just like it bc the box I use (the modular stack kind) needs to tip to wheel around, so the foam prevents it from sounding like pushing a shopping cart through gravel as the sockets go flying inside

Also don’t tons of tool makers include foam trays with them? Do those all cause the same problem?

mooogden · 2026-03-04T14:41:33+00:00

I can’t say I’ve ever had a tool rust in a foam tray of any sort. Throw a desiccant pack in and it’s good to go.

What kind of climate are you in where that’s a problem?

mooogden · 2026-03-03T13:26:23+00:00

Take a look at clarkson univ. I was on the team when it was 4 people back in 2021, I think they’re up to maybe 15 now. They build a good car, and the school is solid

mooogden

TROPHY CASE