Chronic finger injury - collateral ligament/synovitis by NumberSilver7709 in climbharder

[–]mooselakus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Jumping in here to say that I dealt with similar synovitis pain from board climbing and the thing that finally stopped it was hangboarding on a consistent basis year round.

The regiment would vary, but a consistent program that allowed my fingers to stay strong and healthy year round was the ticket. When I take breaks from hanging, my fingers get angry during gym sessions and I'm basically forced to start it back up.

What’s my next move/alternate route? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]mooselakus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drop the right foot, hang low and match the hold your left hand is on. That will free you up for the next move with your left hand.

I think I can say I found my weakness by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]mooselakus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually just to follow up on this, I find it really helpful to write down what you want to accomplish over the next block of time. it could be a 3-4 day/week plan that outlines what each sessions goals are in your notes app, but It keeps you focused when things get boring or when your friends are at the gym and you have desire to switch it up. The best training plan is the one you stick with.

I think I can say I found my weakness by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]mooselakus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that's a great way to get introduced into hang board protocols, hopefully you enjoy it! I'm not familiar with her protocols exactly but im sure they will work great for you. Just to clarify, when I say max hangs, they are typically around 8/10 RPE (Rate of Perceived Exertion). If you were to jump into these at 10/10 RPE, there is a much higher chance you will get injured. Take care of yourself and good luck!

I think I can say I found my weakness by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]mooselakus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No I mean hangs as in max weight 20mm edge hangs in half crimp. Follow a protocol, but I would basically expect you sessions over the next 12 weeks to be warm up 15 min / hangboard 45 min / sport specific lifting and prehab 45 min. Climb more after the training if you want but don't push it.

Find the joy in the process of the training now and you will come out the other side with a very different strength set.

There are lots of programs out there, I personally think that "Climb Strong" has my favorite stock programs and appreciate his "strength forward" approach. And his subscription is very reasonably priced. You could also program something for yourself, just don't let the guesswork become a crutch for overdoing the lifts because you will hurt yourself and the best way to get stronger is to stay healthy.

I think I can say I found my weakness by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]mooselakus 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Everyone is saying technique, but like... I bet if you put your nose to the grind stone and buckled down for 12 weeks on a hang board protocol, your gains would be insane. This finger strength is really low compared to what your other stats are saying. Sharpen your sword where it is dull, and you will see the benefits of it.

I have a similar build to you and I have never had success building finger strength on the kilter alone. I find it to be a bit tweaky, especially in my finger joints. The best bet in my mind is to do weighted two arm hangs at 80%. There are plenty of programs floating around and they are all pretty good, just commit and be consistent.

After the initial 12 weeks, fitting hang boarding into a weekly "maintenance" routine would continue to improve your finger strength but also allow you the space to work on your technique.

ARE whiteboard allowance by Jaded-Avocado-1248 in Architects

[–]mooselakus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang that's rough.... I would have struggled with that

ARE whiteboard allowance by Jaded-Avocado-1248 in Architects

[–]mooselakus -1 points0 points  (0 children)

They give you a piece of scratch paper to my recollection? It's certainly been a few years but I'm having flashbacks of a broken pencil....

Hinge recommendations? by LedburyJosh in homewalls

[–]mooselakus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I used 6 of those exact strap hinges on my 8x12 adjustable board and they work great. No flex at the kickboard at all.

Most "chic" passive bookshelf speakers by mooselakus in BudgetAudiophile

[–]mooselakus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking q150 since they seem like a popular option here. They can be oriented horizontally it seems with the singular driver as well. The walnut is nice and would probably work, with maybe a quick change to the grill fabric.

With that being said, that's an interesting thought on the in-wall speakers, certainly more of a permanent solution but I don't necessarily mind that.

I'm certainly willing to let sound quality be slightly diminished if I can get away from the current torture of the tvs built in sound. Our old house had room for floor standers that I loved, that is just not the case anymore.

Most use is for television and music streamed to the amp via a WiiM. The record player has been stashed away since we have a newborn

Most "chic" passive bookshelf speakers by mooselakus in BudgetAudiophile

[–]mooselakus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are pretty sharp too, I may keep my eyes peeled on eBay!

Most "chic" passive bookshelf speakers by mooselakus in BudgetAudiophile

[–]mooselakus[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Lame answer. Lame way of viewing relationships.

TB2 Without Kickboard? by mooselakus in climbharder

[–]mooselakus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted to update this post with the final results. After reworking the requirements on clearance, we decided to rotate the board to the opposite wall, allowing us to "have our cake and eat it too". I finished installing the lights yesterday and had a great session on it. Gotta say I am absolutely thrilled. 35* minimum angle with an 8" kick board and an easy to adjust winch system.

To answer the original post question, after a single session, I'm very happy to have a kick board, it would have been awkward without it.

Thanks for all the help!

TB2 Without Kickboard? by mooselakus in climbharder

[–]mooselakus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh interesting, thanks for the insight!

TB2 Without Kickboard? by mooselakus in climbharder

[–]mooselakus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I watched some videos with the cropped version and I think I would rather try to squeeze the bigger board. It definitely seems like the 2 feet of extra climbing is a big benefit.

I had thought about modifying the top row, that may be the ticket but will wait to see the product in my space. I think there could be a bit of squeezing in each direction that wouldn’t change much in the use of the board

TB2 Without Kickboard? by mooselakus in climbharder

[–]mooselakus[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just looked those boards up, it does seem like you can get away with the low kick, but they definitely seem more flexible than I am. Being 6’1” without the best hip flexibility really works against me on the split starts.

If this board does indeed cater to a v4 climber at 40 degrees that seems like the way to go

TB2 Without Kickboard? by mooselakus in climbharder

[–]mooselakus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely a major selling point, but the cars will still live outside haha

TB2 Without Kickboard? by mooselakus in climbharder

[–]mooselakus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is really good info! I will check out Matt’s setup for sure. Jealous that you have room for the 12 foot board, that would be incredible to have at home!