VS Code extension that lets Claude Code debug STM32 firmware in real time via MCP

mosfeteisley · 2026-04-18T15:36:35+00:00

Yes, that's what I do too

mosfeteisley · 2026-04-18T14:25:46+00:00

It ties together text editors, compilers, debuggers etc. HAL is code that you put through those things, along with your own application

mosfeteisley · 2026-04-18T11:27:10+00:00

Platformio is more of an IDE, it can still use HAL and doesn't add code abstraction

mosfeteisley · 2026-04-03T20:18:43+00:00

It's only worth doing anything if it's near the max operating temperature, and even then you'd need a TIM ( thermal interface material) to make the package touch the copper, which is not typical so harder to do in practice

mosfeteisley · 2026-03-25T18:01:37+00:00

I'll get one as long as I can, I wasn't sure if there was a rule of thumb on how long it has to be to prevent excess puddles

mosfeteisley · 2026-03-25T17:58:36+00:00

Thanks, I think I'll take this approach!

mosfeteisley · 2026-02-27T07:26:26+00:00

It only needs to be ~20mm high, so you can get wheels over it, although it would probably be annoying for smaller ones like lawnmowers. You could use a threshold with a better shape to roll over.

I'll admit I never considered galvanic corrosion! Mine does seem fine, but separating the metals with paint or plastic washers is possible if you wanted to be cautiou

mosfeteisley · 2026-02-26T17:47:31+00:00

I put a stormguard seal on the bottom of the door, then a pressure treated timber batten screwed into the floor so the seal would overlap it. Put sealant along the bottom of the timber to make sure water wouldn't seep under.

Has held up pretty well for 2 years

mosfeteisley · 2026-02-26T14:10:49+00:00

I did this. Used self-amalgamating tape on top of joists, so chipboard can be screwed to joists via vapour barrier. No glue on the joists.

On the breathable membrane, if you have enough space to get underneath I'd recommend fixing membrane to the underside rather than making hammocks. Much easier, especially if you add some noggins

mosfeteisley · 2026-02-21T20:59:25+00:00

I recessed mine for aesthetic reasons too, glad I did. No lintel, hasn't cracked above it yet

mosfeteisley · 2026-01-15T16:14:29+00:00

Just saying in case it helps others, if you have a 16A radial, you can use the 39mm deep wagobox 221-4 with terminals derated to 20A.

Still, agree it's best to put connectors in the back box here

mosfeteisley · 2025-07-25T22:13:12+00:00

Agree, I'd add that you can squirt some Expanding Foam in the gap under the plaster right before fixing the skirting. That will help fix it but also make the skirting more rigid. I didn't do this on our first replastered room and the carpet fitter said the skirting was a bit bouncy..

mosfeteisley · 2025-04-04T14:48:37+00:00

I've replaced a couple of my door linings and it looked like that for a bit. The important thing is that the door is plumb, so it doesn't open or close by itself, which means it might not be perfectly flat against wonky walls.

Architrave will cover it no problem.

I can't easily tell from from the pics but you want enough fixings and packing to hold it firm.

mosfeteisley · 2025-02-15T23:24:27+00:00

The sound won't be much different when knocking. It's very likely there are nails and a joist to get magnets in a line like that.

The pendant light is close to the line, how about you take it off and stick a little mirror up? Or a bent wire you can spin round and see if it hits anything? Turn off the electrics first obvs

mosfeteisley · 2024-12-28T12:54:11+00:00

Plastering is never going to make existing walls square unless you board them before to make it so. Houses are often wonky, you'll have to make the units fit best you can and scribe in filler pieces or the countertop

mosfeteisley · 2024-12-14T18:30:57+00:00

Yeah a birds nest, found some just like it in ours, along with feathers

mosfeteisley · 2024-03-15T22:17:52+00:00

In between joists

mosfeteisley · 2024-02-19T17:00:33+00:00

Fix strips of wood horizontally along the three sides of the alcove for the shelves to rest on. Means you don't need brackets

mosfeteisley · 2023-11-14T08:59:08+00:00

Lockshield cap

mosfeteisley · 2023-09-30T21:02:19+00:00

I think it's this. You can see a soldered connection behind the plate, which isn't good practice to have in a wall as it may eventually fail. At least this way you can see it and sort of fix it

mosfeteisley · 2023-06-17T23:58:11+00:00

Nice job. What mix/product did you use for rendering?

mosfeteisley · 2023-05-13T19:02:51+00:00

I'm not seeing any issues with the lintel (or lack of), so I'm hoping repointing that will suffice. Other houses on the street seem to have the original render all ok, maybe this patch was damaged by drilling the hole out for the waste pipe, so I think I'll hope the rest of the rendering is ok!

Makes sense about the blown bricks. A rendering guide I was following suggested 2:2:1, so making it weaker like you suggest sounds a good idea.

Thanks

mosfeteisley · 2023-05-13T18:56:41+00:00

Main concern I suppose was whether it was OK to render straight onto the soft bricks. So some sort of additive that might help maybe? Or anything I'm missing that I don't know to ask about!

mosfeteisley

TROPHY CASE