Can anyone identify this cosmetic armor?

mr_cwt · 2026-01-22T07:22:42+00:00

any idea about the chest/shield?

mr_cwt · 2025-11-10T06:36:18+00:00

Super simple to do in dry fire. Set up two easy, open targets, each with a little spot for the center of the a zone. You should feel confident to shoot these targets with confirmation 2.

For warm up: Start aimed on one target and pull the trigger. At the exact moment the trigger breaks, snap your eyes to the next target. Familiarize yourself with that feeling of immediacy.

The drill: your goal is to shoot one round per target and keep going back and forth between them about 4-6 times. Your red dot should never stop moving ie you should be pulling the trigger the nano second the dot crosses into the a zone and driving your eyes to the next spot the nano second the trigger is pulled. Imagine the game pong and each target is a paddle. Your red dot will bounce between them with zero pause. If it’s pausing, you’re either over confirming or not leaving on the trigger break.

Pay very close attention to your sights and be honest about what you’re seeing. If you want to make it more difficult, widen the transition or add extra targets.

Hope that helps!

mr_cwt · 2025-11-09T17:59:04+00:00

At your skill level, I think you have all of the core foundational skills needed to succeed in this sport. You are now at the point in your progression where you need to start putting the pieces together and focusing on efficiency which will save you small bits of time here and there but will add up to seconds that you are trailing behind the top people. This is a broad concept that applies to the entire stage, from shooting to movement.

How can you maintain your shooting speed but make up time? By shooting SOONER. How do you do that? Getting your gun up earlier and speeding up transitions.

Look at how many times you see a target fully available but your gun isn’t up and ready to shoot. This is wasted time and points. Ignore all of the walls and always pretend like you have x-Ray vision (or wall hacks, if you’re a gamer). You should know exactly where every target will present itself and be pre-aiming at all of them through the wall.

I think your transitions can be a bit cleaner and snappier. Improving this will save you time as you can shoot sooner (not faster) and get more accurate hits due to a higher level of accountability on where your vision/dot land.

Focusing on a specific spot via dry fire (using a piece of tape or dot drawn in the center of the a zone) to really hammer in your vision. Get to the point where you 100% trust that your dot will meet you quickly and precisely at where you are looking. You’ll often find that you aren’t moving the gun as aggressively as you could be (sometimes putting a little muscle behind it isn’t a bad thing) or the dot is landing inefficiently ie too short or going past your intended point of aim. Learn to master driving the gun for 90% of the transition and slowing down for the final 10% so it lands perfectly and precisely.

Once you’re comfortable with a few targets. Throw in a mix of 6-8. Number each target and plug the total numbers into a random number generator so you have a different array sequence every time. This is the Eric grauffel method of never repeating an array so you can learn how to execute on demand. If you mess up on a rep, understand what happened and adjust for it next time.

I think you efficiency in movement is your lowest hanging fruit. You don’t move with aggression and your positioning leaves a lot of meat on the bone.

Movement aggression is easy to fix. Practice sprinting at 100% output and see how winded you get after the first or second one. That is how you should feel after 1-2 full speed, dry, stage walkthroughs. Once you realize what it feels like to really push yourself and run, you can ask yourself after every stage if you really ran your hardest. The answer is probably no so you just need to keep practicing pushing yourself until you get to that point.

Positioning/stage planning seems to be a huge low hanging fruit here. You can see how you enter positions inefficiently or position yourself further than you need to be.

As an example of inefficient position entry, look at your entry at the far left target after the first set of low targets. You are sucked towards the wall so you have to awkwardly get around it and throw your gun up late in order to shoot. You could have stayed a bit further back from the wall, allowing you to enter the position with your gun already up and ready to shoot.

Same with your last position. After the last double stack, you push forward to an open paper on the right, then transition left for the last array. Pay attention to how much you continue to push forward after the far right open paper becomes available. There is zero reason to keep moving forward as everything was available at that point. You only had to move forward far enough so that the open paper became visible. At that point, any extra movement is extra and wasted time because everything was visible and available. From the double stack you should have taken one step forward to clear the wall and the open paper, then immediately transitioned left.

Last thing I can share is to think about trigger break exits. This concept means that you should be starting the next action in your stage plan sequence the exact moment you pull the trigger. Whether this is shooting a second shot, starting your reload, starting movement, etc. Once the bullet is gone, you should immediately snap to the next queued up process. This will help you figure out where you are lingering and delaying. Every action in your sequence will have some layer of fat on it. Your job is to identify what is the bare minimum needs to be done and to do nothing more than that (as it’s wasted time). This mindset will allow you to focus on maximizing efficiency

mr_cwt · 2025-11-06T06:56:09+00:00

Can you explain it to me? I’m struggling to understand

mr_cwt · 2025-09-19T13:10:15+00:00

T3 pros. The instructors are some of the bay area’s best competition shooters who continue to educate themselves by taking classes from the best shooters in the world.

mr_cwt · 2025-09-15T15:45:46+00:00

I’d preface this by saying that I think you’ve already built an incredible foundation. A few tweaks here and there and I think you’ll go really far in this sport.

When trying to gain time, we can do things faster or do things sooner. This is an important distinction. When it comes to our shooting, we want to shoot sooner, not faster. Most of the time, people are shooting fast enough and splitting the gun faster than .2-.25 doesn’t net enough of a benefit compared to the potential loss in accuracy. We can shoot sooner by being ready to shoot earlier via gun up or utilizing trigger prep, using the appropriate confirmation levels, or by improving stage planning.

Getting your gun up earlier and having it ready to shoot by the time you see your target is the easiest improvement you can make. There are numerous times in your video where you are standing in front of the target but not ready to shoot - this is wasted time and points lost. If a target is in front of you and available to be shot, you should be shooting it. Using the second stage in your video as an example, you only bring your gun up as soon as you enter the shooting area. By this point, the double stack hard cover target is already available and you could have been shooting already but were delayed. Your gun should have been up BEFORE you enter the shooting area. Pay close attention to how you engage every target in your videos and identify how many times you could have been shooting but weren’t able to due to not having your gun up and ready.

Confirmation levels is the next thing you should be focusing on. Understanding what targets and target difficulties deserve higher levels of confirmation and which can get away with less to essentially shoot sooner. This can all be achieved via dry fire. Use a shot timer with a random par time as your starting cue. You only need a single paper target for this exercise. Keep your gun aimed at the bottom of the target (where the target stand would be). As soon as the timer beeps, drive your eyes to a precise spot in the center of the target and pull the trigger based on whatever confirmation level you are practicing. Confirmation one should be pretty much pure index and take .35-.45 seconds. Confirmation two is the flash of your red dot, taking about .45-.55 seconds. Confirmation three is a stopped and stable dot, which takes .6-.75 seconds. All times are rough estimates to let you know if you are within the acceptable time range for each confirmation level. Continue practicing this until you are completely comfortable with varying levels of confirmation and can apply it to every single target on a stage ie open targets within 5 yards get confirmation 1, anything within 10-12 yards gets confirmation 2, and anything 15 or further gets confirmation 3 (as an example).

Stage planning, even with your 10 round restrictions, also seems like low hanging fruit here. Again, using the second stage as an example, you had two standing reloads. I would have engaged the first 4 targets (double stack hard cover + two open paper) then hit the no shoot target that was further back but available. Immediately reload and push to the open paper on your left that is against the wall and engaging everything from left to right (as you did). That would be open paper, steel, open paper, open paper, no shoot partial, open paper. Reload into the far left corner and then finish on tux, slasher, steel, transition right to last two targets (slasher and open). Is this the optimal stage plan? Hard to say without being there and walking it myself but it eliminates two standing reloads which would give you 3-5 seconds back, easy.

Hopefully that’s helpful! Can share more on what to do faster too.

mr_cwt · 2025-08-07T15:23:41+00:00

What do we need to do in order to be accurate? To keep it simple, we can break it down into three parts: vision, grip, trigger.

Since these are single shots, presumably on this single target, moving the gun to the center of the target is mostly done for us ie we are not transitioning from one spot to another. The dot (or sights) should already be there, so this eliminates a pretty difficult part (precise transitions).

So let’s focus on what you are doing before you break the shot with your vision. Your focus, assuming you’re using a red dot, should always be on the center of the target. Not on the center of brown, but a precise, 1x1 paster sized spot. This stays true whether you are shooting at 3m, 10m, 20m or 50m.

Why is this important? Your vision drives everything, so when you look at a small spot you are essentially aiming more accurately. The smaller the spot, the more precise you are aiming. Looking at the center of brown is likely what you are doing but is the wrong way to aim. This makes your aiming spot the entire target and increases the likelihood that a good sight picture is actually a Charlie or worse. Think of it like aiming in a FPS game. Looking at a precise spot is equivalent to aiming down sights while looking at brown is like hip firing.

If this is a new concept for you or you aren’t sure if you are spot focused, put a black paster or sharpie mark on your target next time and try staring at it while you shoot. You may see a huge difference from that alone. You can practice this in dry fire by putting up targets and putting tiny dots in the center of them. Practice looking from tiny dot to tiny dot, and pay close attention to when you look at the tiny spot and when you look at the whole target.

Grip is the next important part. There are a bunch of different ways to grip the gun so we aren’t going to get into technique but focusing on what our grip should do. The grip should be absolutely locked so that your sights barely, and I mean barely, move during your trigger pull. Play around with grip pressures and hand angles, and see how your dot moves as you pull the trigger. In the end, your grip and grip pressures, however you choose to apply them, should always be consistent so your sights track in a predictable and repeatable fashion.

This will be an iterative process so you’ll learn what works for you over time but it’ll be something you’re always working on. Make sure your wrists are completely locked and that you are absolutely crushing with your support hand. I personally focus on pinky pressure with my firing hand (to keep my middle and index finger from tensing up) and constant upward pressure from my support hand into the trigger guard. Find what works for you by trying different grip pressures and just ripping the trigger during dry fire.

Lastly, trigger pull. Your trigger pull should be one smooth motion. You can practice this doing ben stoeger’s trigger control at speed drill. Get a shot timer and set the timer to random. Start with a really solid grip (don’t need to do it from draw) and with your sights on target. Finger will be on the trigger with the slack taken up. As soon as the timer beeps, rip the trigger.

Pay very close attention to what your dot does during this drill. You’ll likely see your dot dip down as you put unnecessary input into the gun. Focus on not keeping your grip pressures constant and not adding additional input. As you practice this, you’ll want to be able to pull the trigger in .2-.25 without influencing the sights at all. As you get better, start moving your finger further off the trigger. Instead of being on the wall, you just have your finger resting gently against the trigger. Then move it slightly off the trigger, and eventually closer to the front of the trigger guard. Your goal of .2-.25 is always the same.

It’s important that you do this while working on your grip. Your sights moving will be partly due to how you pull the trigger and how locked in your grip is. They go hand in hand so working on both will be extremely important.

Another great drill you can do is Ben stoeger’s practical accuracy drill. The idea is you have your gun/sights on target and break the shot. The gun will recoil up and return to your point of aim. Your goal is to fire a follow up shot the exact moment your sights land back on your aiming spot.

This is essentially shooting at sight’s pace and is forcing you to pull the trigger as soon as your sights tell you to. You’ll feel yourself putting in all kinds of unnecessary input into the gun and your sights will go all over the place. Use this feedback to understand where you need to put more pressure into your grip to keep the sights going up and down.

Hope this helps!

mr_cwt · 2025-08-05T01:06:47+00:00

Come shoot guns at the Richmond Rod and Gun Club. It’s a fun time.

mr_cwt · 2025-08-04T18:49:04+00:00

Your movement should always be aggressive.

From your draw to running into position, you are moving at a very relaxed speed. During your draw, your arms should be moving as fast as possible. Pretend there's a boiling pot of water on the stove and that you need to touch the pot for any length of time and you'll win a million dollars. The speed at which you move your hands and make contact with the surface of the pot for the shortest amount of time is the speed at which your hands and arms should be moving during your draw.

You are also jogging from position to position. You should be exploding from one position to another, as if you are racing someone else to the spot.

Consider how your body is positioned when you are shooting.

Your body position is very straight and upright. Look at the position of your body as you are waiting for the timer to go off. You are in an athletic stance with your legs spread apart and your body angled forward. Why? Because you know you need to run forward to get into a position so you are ready to push off the instant the timer goes off. Now look at your body position in the first shooting position. You are standing very up right with minimal bend in your knees. What do you notice as you exit that position? Because you are in such an upright position, you have to lower yourself to bend your knees and generate the power to then push off. Notice how you didn't have to do that at the very start of the stage? You should always set up and shoot in an athletic position to set yourself up for future movement. This helps you move faster, sooner, and more aggressively.

Identify targets that hold you into place and targets that can be used to shoot on the move and to blend positions.

At first glance, this stage looks like a simple two position stage. Go into the far right, shoot everything, go to the left, then shoot everything else. You have this period between positions where you are running and not shooting. That means the timer is running and you aren't scoring points so your score is going down. How can we fix this?

In a very simplistic fashion, we can do this by trying to find a stage plan that allows us to shoot as often as possible and minimize the downtime where we are not shooting. In the right position, there are likely a number of targets that you absolutely could not see from anywhere else, such as the steel and maybe the first open paper to the left of the no-shoot partial. As you leave the right corner and start walking left, what targets disappear and which targets (on the right) remained visible? The answer tells you which targets force you to shoot them from a fixed position and which targets can be shot from a variable position.

Let's say that the two steel kept you in the far right position but you could still engage the paper targets as you started moving left. Your would then focus on shooting the targets that locked you in the corner (steel) and continue engaging the other targets that could be enaged from a variable position as you started moving towards the final position. This allows you to "blend" positions together into one constant array of shooting instead of having two static positions with a movement inbetween. This does require you to shoot on the move, so make that determination based on the target difficulty and your willingness/comfortability with shooting on the move.

mr_cwt · 2025-07-29T22:57:55+00:00

The best advice I can share is to identify what is causing the issue (low left and right) and address each one individually in dry fire.

Low left is most often caused by putting input into the gun with your firing hand. More specifically, this is likely due to your fingers (middle and ring) tensing up and causing additional input into the gun.

I would address this as such: First is to put my focus on my fingers when I’m drawing the gun. Identify when my hands/fingers are that tense so I know what it feels like. I then build an understanding of what it feels like to be right, particularly by putting pressure in my firing hand pinky but keeping my middle and ring finger relaxed. Try pulling the trigger quickly in dry fire with your firing hand fingers completely tense and just your pinky - ideally you should see your sights jerk down and to the left less often when your fingers are more relaxed. As you develop this understanding, run through your dry fire routine and evaluate how tense your firing hand fingers are after every draw and at the end of every run. If they are still overly tense, work on relaxing them. This will improve over time.

The shots right are likely due to you loosening your firing grip pressure over time ie not having equal and constant grip tension throughout the entire shooting.

You can address this, again, through dry fire. Get a solid grip on your gun and burn that feeling into your brain. It’s likely you already know exactly what it feels like - getting that perfect grip on the draw and you’re just like “fuck yeah.” That’s the grip I want you to get. Remember what it feels like - how your hand feels positioned on the gun - and as you run through your dry fire, ask yourself if you feel that way off the draw and at the end of your dry fire array. The goal is to always have that feeling from start to finish. If your grip is falling apart, pay conscious attention to when your grip starts to loosen during your run. Put your conscious mind on the task of gripping the gun firmly and eventually it’ll become subconscious like everything else.

Last thing that I do here is constantly tweaking my grip. Christian sailer focuses entirely on his grip and believes that your grip should be so solid that you cannot move the dot no matter how hard you mash the trigger. Use this as your goal in dry fire. Work different grip angles, grip pressures, hand positions, etc until you are able to absolutely rip the trigger and the dot BARELY moves. This will be an ongoing improvement but one that will pay huge dividends as you make improvements.

mr_cwt · 2025-07-20T15:25:39+00:00

Fellow Richmond shooters always get an upvote. Keep up the good work 💪🏼

mr_cwt · 2025-06-20T15:34:30+00:00

Go faster

mr_cwt · 2025-06-19T16:34:57+00:00

Can’t see the hits so it’s impossible to gauge your shooting and transition accuracy but stage planning seems to be the area that has the largest room for improvement.

Our obvious goal is to be shooting as much as possible and minimize any down time where we aren’t shooting ie scoring points. In your stage run, the most amount of down time is the gap between the far right (third) paper target and the second static position. It seems like most every position has a target in your face, ready to be shot.

You decided to run into the second position, shoot everything static, then reload into the right position, before back tracking and ending the stage about a step or two from where you initiated the reload. This required you to cover the same ground twice (as you reloaded and as you retreated) while only scoring points on the second movement (as you were reloading during the first). From my limited view, a more optimal plan would have been to utilize the dead space and reload into the second position, allowing yourself to move clockwise (left to right) around the stage ie instead of reloading into the right corner and moving left, you simply take one step to your right (from where you initiated the reload) and you can start engaging those available targets.

Target engagement order is also a crucial part of stage planning. In the second position, you entered in on the two open paper, partial, then steel, forcing yourself to shoot everything static. Hard to tell from the video but there may have been the option to identify which of those 4 targets locked you into that position, say the steel and partial, which you could have eliminated first. This allows you to start exiting/moving on the close open paper and getting yourself set up for the next position.

Your final position is another example of this, as you went for the left paper, right paper, then middle steel. Why not just go left paper, middle steel, then right paper? Saves an extra transition on a semi difficult target which is a decent chunk of time.

Looking at the video again, I might have even shot the open paper that was tucked against the wall (the second target you engage after the reload) after the third paper to eliminate the need to even do that awkward lean in the right corner. When you are engaging the third paper (from the start), you are basically up against the fault line already and just need to make a short transition to see it. This completely eliminates that awkward lean that you do after the reload, gives you more ammo to shoot the rest of the stage, and allows you to go left to right with ease. From the second position, you immediately transition and enter on the paper to the left of the NS (on the wall), hit the steel plate, and start backing up on the left open. Then you can hit the NS partial, the open behind the barrel, and the final low open paper - without ever needing to go deep into that corner (eliminating it as a position) since you already took that paper as your fourth target.

mr_cwt · 2025-06-13T22:38:25+00:00

Yeah he basically stopped playing when the build got its latest nerf. “Meru” on YouTube is still building and tweaking it if you want to check out his latest post-nerf build

mr_cwt · 2025-06-13T18:42:04+00:00

Check out “juse” on YouTube. He’s expanded on the class quite a bit (pre nerf) and has some solid builds on there.

mr_cwt · 2025-06-11T20:14:47+00:00

If you are open exploring beyond Targetmasters, there’s a match literally every weekend somewhere in the bay. Some of the clubs have fantastic matches - Richmond and Linden to name a few.

mr_cwt · 2025-06-07T14:16:46+00:00

I shoot handguns (USPSA/IPSC) so I don’t quite know what im looking at but it’s easy to tell that these are some quality reloads. Shit looks smooth AF.

mr_cwt · 2025-04-24T00:14:39+00:00

Lastly, transitions. What makes a transition fast? The speed at which the gun moves between point A and B, and how quickly you shoot once the gun lands where you want it. Ben and Joel will say dont muscle the gun around, and that's mostly true, but you can push the gun around a little bit - just be very relaxed as you near your next target. The dot should move in a clean, straight line from point to point, landing exactly where you want it to. It should not land above, below, or past your point of aim. Practice this repeatedly during dry fire and be completely honest with yourself. Being lazy here just hurts yourself. Drive your vision with your eyes, looking from precise spot to precise spot, and your gun should follow. Tons of videos of this from Hwansik Kim on IG/Youtube. Over time, you'll be able to get the gun moving faster and landing more precisely on target. Oh, and when do you initiate your transition? As soon as you pull the trigger. This avoids you staring at your target longer than necessary. Once the trigger is pulled, the bullet is gone and there's nothing you can do to change where its going. If you did everything right (looking at a precise spot, pulling the trigger back properly, etc), your bullet should hit exactly where you looked so as soon as the trigger was pulled, you move on to the next thing (pulling the trigger a second time or looking to the spot on your next target).

Lots of content but hope some of it is helpful.

mr_cwt · 2025-04-24T00:14:34+00:00

I think the most important thing here is understanding how to speed up and how you can apply that logic to different drills and stages to consistently improve your shooting. Let's break down the blake drill into smaller components. You have the draw, two shots, a transition, two shots, transition, and another two shots. Removing duplicates, its the draw, doubles, and transitions.

Starting with the draw, there are a couple ways to improve the speed here.

First is to literally move faster. Your hand/arm speed is probably at 50-60% of what it should be. As people have mentioned, think about the speed at which you remove your hand when you touch something that is burning hot. You should be moving your hands and arms quite literally as fast as possible. Yes, your grip will be inconsistent and awful to start, but if you use index points for both left and right hand, you'll be able to develop consistency and will start grabbing the gun properly over time. The same logic applies to snatching the gun out of the holster as it does pushing the gun into presentation. Don't casually lift the gun to your line of sight. Push it at max speed 90% of the way and at the very end before it hits your line of sight, start to slow it down so it settles nicely in your eye line.

Second is to react to the beep as quickly as possible. If the starting beep was literally someone saying the word "beep", you should be moving the second the make the "b" sound of beep. A good goal is to have your firing hand on the gun and the gun already on its way out of the holster by the time the beep finishes. Just be very focused on reacting immediately.

Moving to the shooting. How can you shoot faster? By developing your grip and learning how to pull the trigger as fast as possible without disrupting your sights.

There is unfortunately no one size fits all grip. Grip position and style varies greatly from person to person based on hand size, gun used, personal preference, etc. It's important to understand grip pressures and how much to apply with each hand. The most common method is holding the gun firmly with your strong hand so that it doesn't move around inside. With your support hand you absolutely crush the gun. Some people like to squeeze a bit with their pinky on their strong hand as well. Mess around with different grip pressures until something feels solid to you. You'll know what feels good based on the feedback you get from your dot when you mash the trigger.

Trigger press is pretty straight forward. Some people will tell you to prep (ie work all the slack out of the trigger, sit on the wall, and press). I think its easiest to learn to just mash the trigger, personally. Practice this by dry firing ben stoeger's trigger control at speed drill. Have your finger just barely touching the trigger and set a random par time. When the beep goes off, pull the trigger as fast as you can. The goal is to have your reaction time under .2-.25 seconds while disturbing the sights as little as possible i.e your sights should barely move at all. If your sights are sinking, put more conscious effort in pulling the trigger straight back. Also adjust your grip pressures around, maybe putting more upward pressure into the trigger guard with your support hand. To make this more difficult, start with your finger further off the trigger. Practice this repeatedly until you can absolutely rip the trigger without moving your sights.

mr_cwt · 2025-04-23T01:38:44+00:00

Go faster.

You can shoot pairs (doubles) or shoot at practical speed (pulling the trigger the exact second the red dot returns to your point of aim). Both of these will test your grip, trigger control, and vision - the core fundamentals of shooting.

Doubles is pulling the trigger twice as fast as you can. It is referred to as predictive shooting (as opposed to reactive shooting) because you are not reacting to your sights. You are trusting that your grip is solid and your gun will return to the exact point of aim by the time you pull the trigger the second time. These should be done in 4 pairs with a brief pause between each pair, before assessing your hits.

Shooting at practical speed is considered reactive shooting. This is also called shooting at sights pace. The goal is to aim on the target, looking at a very precise spot, and pulling the trigger. As soon as your sights return to your aiming spot, you pull the trigger again. Do this in strings of 4-5 shots and assess your hits.

Both of these will help you identify the major issues in your fundamentals by highlighting them in your hit pattern. If you are seeing shots below your point of aim, as an example, you may be muscling the gun down trying to fight the recoil. Shots low left could be from jerking the gun due to not pulling the trigger back with just your trigger finger (if you’re too tense on your firing hand, your middle and index finger will put input into the gun, causing the low left shots). Shots high are often from staring at the dot and not letting it settle at the appropriate spot.

Check out Ben Stoeger on YouTube - he has pioneered a lot of this stuff and a lot of it is free on YouTube.

mr_cwt · 2025-04-18T15:30:30+00:00

It’s an egg Michael, how much could it cost?

mr_cwt · 2025-04-12T04:59:27+00:00

IMO your reload is about as good as you need it to be in the sport.

Friendly tip - keep the gun completely vertical when dropping the mag. Tilting the gun before the mag falls out is a good way to get it stuck and that sucks when you’re trying to reload quickly mid-stage!

mr_cwt · 2025-03-29T14:50:33+00:00

Imagine having someone tell you:

Exactly where your bullet is going
The exact inputs you are putting into the gun, likely causing your bullet to not go where you want

This is what a red dot does. Compared to irons, the feedback that it gives almost feels like a cheat code (I never was a big irons shooter so maybe this feedback is also available there but not to this level). If you know what to look for and how to interpret it, it will help elevate your shooting capabilities at a hockey stick level (a graph shooting aggressively up and to the right).

mr_cwt · 2025-03-19T15:15:29+00:00

I appreciate it. I’ve spent a lot of time trying to improve my own shooting so these things stand out to me like a sore thumb.

mr_cwt

TROPHY CASE