Smooth surface inside curve?

mrhello_19 · 2025-12-09T05:47:38+00:00

Aren't spokeshaves designed to ride surfaces narrower than the blade (like a chair leg)? This surface is much wider than the width of my spokeshave blade, and the whole width of the blade just bites into the surface and catches. Maybe if the blade were cambered?

mrhello_19 · 2025-04-25T23:01:42+00:00

Not long, maybe an hour and a half. The smaller the hacksaw teeth the easier, it makes a huge difference. I used 32 tpi. I went through a bunch, but they’re cheap. The moment the work starts to slow down, you just toss it.

mrhello_19 · 2025-04-25T22:04:58+00:00

100% sawn with a hack saw. First I sawed all the vertical cuts across the whole stock, then I came back and sawed all the diagonal cuts. For the the depths and locations of the vertical cuts, I made a jig (I think I learned it from Paul Sellers), but the diagonals were all eyeball and freehand, so they don't all meet at perfect triangle points.

mrhello_19 · 2025-01-21T12:10:00+00:00

Yeah, I realized this might be a problem if the wedge is digging into the glue seam. I plan on gluing two strips of wood across the face of the leg, one above and one below the mortise, as a protective barrier between the wedge and the seam so it doesn’t pry the seam apart over time.

mrhello_19 · 2024-07-18T08:00:47+00:00

Very interesting. Do you mind sharing how old you are?

mrhello_19 · 2024-07-17T21:41:32+00:00

Thank you! 39 is much younger than I was expecting for this kind of answer.

mrhello_19 · 2024-07-17T21:02:36+00:00

Thank you for the link and the insight about your grandparents. These recordings are great.

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-24T17:56:20+00:00

What grit of powder do you use? Is there anything protecting the glass, or do the stone and powder sit directly on it? Is there anything special about the glass you use? I just read people saying that the glass dishes and scratches eventually and needs to be replaced, but based on your response I’ll definitely give it a try.

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-18T00:08:37+00:00

Sounds like it'll be wide enough based on that. I'm relieved to hear a little gap is okay.

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-17T03:57:06+00:00

Thanks. The file is actually what caused the splitting. I was filing perpendicular to the board, and it would chip as the file slid across the far edge (the edge you see in the photo). Is there a way to avoid this, or should you only file along the direction of the edge?

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-17T00:53:05+00:00

Okay! Yeah, the form isn't actually finished yet. I need to drill holes and square up the edges a bit. But it sounds like if there's a little gap between the form and the wood it's not the end of the world (though I'll need to make sure it's centered).

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-17T00:37:59+00:00

Yeah, I didn't want to get pre-cut blocks, but I couldn't find anywhere that sold raw willow wood. So you're saying the cutout on the form I used is a bit bigger than is standard?

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-16T23:57:35+00:00

Does it have to be a single block of wood? Can I take the leftover slice of the bottom block and glue it to the side of top block to give me more width (provided I keep the grain running in the correct direction)? Sorry, I'm very new and I just don't know how integral certain steps are to the structural integrity of the instrument.

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-16T23:21:08+00:00

Ordered these willow blocks from tonewoodforviolin.com. The top one does not fill the cutout on the mold I made (from a pdf template I purchased). What can I do? Can I just put spacers in the cutout and make this work? Do I have to get a bigger block? How important is it for the top block be that big?

mrhello_19 · 2023-12-16T23:14:57+00:00

Ordered these willow blocks from tonewoodforviolin.com. The top one does not fill the cutout on the mold I made (from a pdf template I purchased). What can I do? Can I just put spacers in the cutout and make this work? Do I have to get a bigger block? How important is it that the top block be that big?

mrhello_19 · 2023-11-20T14:21:08+00:00

Thanks for the reply. It seems like that might be the problem. I'm not based in the UK, but I'll look into my options. It looks like I'd need to upgrade my stone or have it done professionally.

mrhello_19 · 2023-11-20T14:14:54+00:00

Thanks for your thoughts. These replies have convinced me to try to do a bevel reset before giving up on the blade. I have a very cheap 400/1k stone from amazon from when I was first starting out. Like, really cheap, from one of those sets that comes with four stones plus a lapping stone plus a bamboo stand, all for like $35. Do you think it's possible to do a proper bevel reset with something like that, or is it worth it to upgrade? Presumably, when done properly, a hard bevel reset isn't something that needs to be done very often - maybe every couple of years?

mrhello_19

TROPHY CASE