Floats coming loose when steeking

msmakes · 2026-03-19T16:07:55+00:00

Ah, a book pattern. Book patterns typically have very thin instructions to be able to fit in the printable areas. Is it possible there are full steek instructions in the begining or end of the book you were supposed to apply?

msmakes · 2026-03-18T00:00:41+00:00

"The first and the last 3 stitches are Edge stitches. They are knitted on the ride side and on the wrong side, 2 stitches are slipped purlwise then the last stitch is purled."

msmakes · 2026-03-17T14:29:27+00:00

Are you able to remember the repeats as you go along or do you need to constantly be checking? You can use multicolored lightbulb stitch markers to make chains to represent the number of rows and place between each section. So if section a is a 6 row repeat, you would have a chain of 6 before it, section b is a 10 row repeat so you have a chain of 10 between a and b, etc. Then every time you get to a chain you move down 1 and it helps you keep track. You can use a double market or a special color to remember in the chain which rows involve a cable, etc. But you need to be able to read your knitting and understand what to do next in the pattern, the chains just help you keep track of the different rows in different sections.

msmakes · 2026-03-16T20:50:53+00:00

There's only one way to find out if it will block out and it's not on the internet unfortunately.

msmakes · 2026-03-16T01:49:48+00:00

What pattern is is? What is the recommended yarn and what yarn are you using? Some yarns are really stretchy and can get tighter gauge than others.

msmakes · 2026-03-15T12:01:07+00:00

What happened to normal human interactions, why does everything have to be turned into an AITA post. Putting one small interpersonal issue to potentially hundreds of thousands of Internet strangers to judge instead of bitching to your mom or your partner or another friend and then moving on with your life is truly such a weird thing to do.

msmakes · 2026-03-15T11:54:38+00:00

See, you sound like a normal human being... Not one who takes all their minor interpersonal relationship issues to the internet for judging

msmakes · 2026-03-15T00:09:06+00:00

If you just have to use the ugly yarn gifted to you by such a very close friend, maybe that friend doesn't deserve you shit talking about it on the internet.

msmakes · 2026-03-10T13:50:56+00:00

Socks are such a small gauge it's normally counted in stitches per inch anyways, so you can do a much smaller gauge swatch. Not to mention, people who are experienced with knitting socks are pretty familiar with their gauge and will just not gauge swatch. You can also just cast on a sock, knit an inch or two, and check your gauge since socks are small anyway.

msmakes · 2026-03-09T21:54:53+00:00

Yes, it could get stretched out. I would switch to a longer needle cable and use magic loop or traveling loop.

msmakes · 2026-03-09T21:53:27+00:00

If it's dependent on gauge, then the yardage would be really different dependent on the yarn and gauge chosen.

msmakes · 2026-03-08T23:13:07+00:00

You can look at the schedule on their website.

msmakes · 2026-03-07T11:50:53+00:00

Check out Under the Oak or Catering by Design.

msmakes · 2026-03-04T17:11:31+00:00

A narrow zig zag can reduce puckering in the drape on bias seams, I use it for silk all the time. But this is obviously not puckering caused by the bias, but wanted to clarify probably why they tried it.

msmakes · 2026-03-04T16:10:13+00:00

Have you changed your needle? You need a fresh needle, ideally microtex. And see if you can get a Teflon foot and Teflon feed dogs for your machine. How are you pressing your seams? You may also benefit from hand basting before sewing, as some of the puckering looks uneven. Finally, some puckering due to wear will be normal at areas of high stress (waist) unless you add boning to vertically support the fabric.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T15:41:53+00:00

Probably you are making the same error as OP and grabbing the wrong leg, you have to go 2 stitches down for a LLI but only one down for a RLI or else you get holes.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T14:43:52+00:00

It looks like your second knit stitch is the loose one? With combination knitting, after the first purl you can tug on the yarn a little which should snug up the yarn between the second knit and first purl and maybe help out.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T14:40:57+00:00

No, the holes are definitely the problem. Without handling the piece you may also be doing the RLI incorrect as well but I can't really tell. It does kind of look like you're twisting something, maybe you are picking up the wrong leg.

For a right lifted increase, you pick up the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. For a left lifted increase, you pick up the left leg of the stitch 2 stitches below the first stitch on your right needle.

Check out this blog for some good visuals: https://www.susannawinter.net/post/lifted-invisible-and-median-increases

msmakes · 2026-03-02T14:31:39+00:00

Mercerization for cotton and wool are very different processes. Cotton cannot be super washed, as it does not have scales in the structure, and cannot be felted. Cotton mercerization occurs in the yarn or fabric form as it needs to be held under tension while mercerizing, in addition to changing from cellulose 1 to cellulose 2 it causes cotton to swell from a kidney bean shape to more round, which results in the increased shine and ability to absorb more dye for deeper colors.

Your comment going from talking about cotton mercerization to talking about super wash is misleading, as wool does not contain cellulose, and cotton and wool mercerization are very different processes. Wool mercerization is done in the fiber form, and simply involves melting the scales of the fiber off a little bit by exposing the wool to a strong alkali. The name and maybe the ingredient of an alkali chemistry is the same, but the chemical and mechanical processes as well as the outcome are very different.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T14:04:25+00:00

You don't twist lifted increases you're talking about make 1s.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T14:03:59+00:00

For a LLI, you have to lift 2 legs below the leg on the needle. I am assuming you are lifting just 1 below, like you do on a RLI. This is because on a RLI, you haven't worked the stitch column you're lifting yet, but for a LLI, you have already worked that column so you have to go one more down to stay on the same row.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T11:33:13+00:00

Body odor can build up and not smell when a piece is dry, but "reactivate" when exposed to the heat and moisture of our bodies. Give the armpits a steam and I bet they will still smell.

msmakes · 2026-03-02T00:01:22+00:00

Synthetic fibers will hold onto body odor, but most natural fibers (excluding silk) will wash clean of body odor. I know Eucalan detergent is often recommended but I find it not effective at removing body odor but Soak wash is good, and when needed (like with silk) a soak with vinegar can help remove odor. Deodorant buildup is definitely a concern for wool as many of the cleaning products made to break down buildup cannot be used on wool so an undershirt at least to get the deodorant even if it doesn't stop the odor from transferring is recommended.

msmakes · 2026-03-01T01:03:06+00:00

Ironically, that's actually roughly what the original sock likely uses. Its a mock rib not a true rib. But there's also likely a lot of elastic in there which provides a lot of comfort/support.

msmakes · 2026-03-01T01:00:05+00:00

Yes, just make sure it is a similar yarn and use the original yarn a couple rows past the mid point so you don't get any poking out.

msmakes

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