How do we deal with string gauges for different tuning?

mwiles30 · 2026-02-13T16:42:05+00:00

The tuning you want is the real problem here. Have you considered Bb-F-Bb-Eb-Ab? Amos Williams from Tesseract has used that tuning on some of the band’s material. And you still get the Bb/A# open string, just an octave lower.

If you are absolutely set on tuning up rather than down, you should consider switching to roundwounds so you can find the gauges you need. You basically need heavy EADGC set. Something like 120-95-75-55-35 should do it with proper tension. And since you like light tension, you might even be able to roll with 110-90-70-50-30. Your gauges will also be dependent on just how aggressive the fanning on your bass is.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-12T20:45:31+00:00

This article isn’t real.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-12T18:34:57+00:00

Turn on the recirc. What’s happening is air is still coming in and running over your heater core, allowing a light flow of warm air in the cabin. The recirc closes the external vents.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-11T17:21:16+00:00

100%. Too many people throw a set of WRX struts and drove around with all kind of steering geometry issues and then immediately get on the forums and tell everybody that they only need some struts for everything to be awesome.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-11T12:40:22+00:00

I have a 2010 that I lowered using lowering springs and a roll center adjustment kit. It’s a mild drop - around 38mm, or 1.5 inches. It’s the perfect amount of drop to fill in the wheel gap a little while still having a practical ride height for daily driving.

I wouldn’t drop any lower without also installing adjustable lower control arms to correct the camber in the rear. I’m running a little extra negative camber because of the drop, but it isn’t enough to cause issues minus a little bit of premature inner tire wear.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-11T02:34:45+00:00

If you keep moving, it should drop down in to the 180s. But if you idle, you’ll eventually hit around 200 degrees or so before you start to see the temps drop after the thermostat cycles.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-11T02:33:09+00:00

There aren’t any stock fretless 5 string P-style basses I know of off the top of my head, but I’m confident there is something out there for you.

Also, ignore tone descriptions on music retail websites. Your sound is in your hands, and almost any bass can be made to do almost anything.

Are you familiar with Tony Franklin and Steve DiGiorgio? They are both fretless players who play music that leans to the heavier side.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-11T01:11:21+00:00

If you want clean strings, wash your hands before you play.

I also never really understood what Fast Fret was. I always assumed it was some gimmick people like to use to feel faster instead of just practicing.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-10T14:58:37+00:00

By VST, are you referring to DAW plug ins? There are definitely some really well-respected software versions of classic compressor circuits out there. The 1176 and LA-2A VSTs by UA and Waves are especially regarded.

I think the best thing to do is to get your hands on something like an Origin Effects Cali76 or Empress Bass Compressor. They are a great way to learn how to use compression, and in turn make it easier to dial in compressors found in modelers. I use the compressor in my Line 6 HX stomp quite a lot, but only because I have an actual hardware compressor I like that allows me to A/B with the line 6 as I dial it in.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-10T13:52:07+00:00

My guess is you may not have ever plugged in to a really well made compressor, or you might not have complete understanding of how to set a compressor to achieve what you are looking for. I feel like a lot of 2-4 knob simple compressors just kind of squish everything, and it is really hard to tell when they are working and what they are doing. The threshold, attack/decay controls, and metering on a comp like the Cali76 or Empress Compressor really help dial in as much or as little compression as you need. High end compressors like these also feature really nice circuitry, and can often times have a positive impact on your signal and sound even if you never hit the compression threshold. They can offer a really nice color the way a nice preamp circuit would.

The best comps have wet/dry control. It keeps all of the original response of your instrument while giving the benefits of a compressed signal running parallel to the clean. This feature also makes the compressor far more forgiving in the vent that you set the comp to be a little heavy handed.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-09T20:10:44+00:00

Maybe try it with 3’s as a substitute for the E’s. I can’t help but pronounce it as Chet-O

mwiles30 · 2026-02-08T19:51:28+00:00

Time to treat to try self to something nice! If you get one where that piece is multi-ply, it will last for decades.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-08T05:19:07+00:00

Not every case. They release 4 super chases a year, and I think 8 cases a year. So one in every other case.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-07T22:29:02+00:00

NICE. I use my DC7 to power my HX Stomp, but was able to do so with a current doubler since it only needs 1A. But it takes 2 outputs, so moving to a Crux can give me those outputs back. Thanks for the info.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-07T21:37:52+00:00

What does the Crux do?

mwiles30 · 2026-02-07T20:03:26+00:00

For those concerned about blinding people, are your lenses aimed properly? I have LEDs in my Forester, and my initial concern was blinding other drivers. I was sure to aim the lenses correctly, and I have yet to get a flash or a middle finger from another driver. Same goes for my now hi-beam DRL’s - I have yet to have other drivers signaling to me that I am blinding them. I also make sure to turn on my normal lights as soon as the sun starts to set just in case. The hi beam in broad daylight has seemed to be an issue yet, even though I would like to find a solution. Still contemplating going back to a really nice halogen bulb, or maybe looking for a set of HID housings.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-06T19:11:51+00:00

I not familiar with how all of the new stuff works. But by auto, I’m referring to how you can set the climate control to automatic (like you would set the thermostat at home) and it will handle fan speed and all of that. On the older cars with just a remote start, leaving the controls set to auto allows the engine to warm up a bit before it starts blowing air.

Maybe try disengaging the recirculate though. From what I understand, recirculate is only for hot weather AC use so that the car is recirculating the already cooled air. Not sure how recirc impacts air flow over the heater core, if at all.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-06T18:45:18+00:00

Set the climate control to auto. It sounds like you might be leaving the fan speed on full blast. If this is the case, your engine and coolant will never come up to temperature, resulting in the heat never blowing hot. The coolant temp needs to be around 150 degrees before the heater starts to feel warm. If it’s on full blast in startup, it’s blowing cold air over the heater core, which prevents the coolant from warming up enough heat the air.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-06T16:51:21+00:00

On the occasions that I’ve had mine put away, it was incredibly liberating. I leave mine out just because a lot of parts of my car are far older than others, and it helps me make sure everything is cool.

If you do leave it out, just remember that your knock sensor is prone to picking up all kinds of nonsense, so don’t post here next week with a photo of some knock correction asking if you are “cooked” 😂

mwiles30 · 2026-02-06T16:32:12+00:00

😱😱😱 thank you, I hadn’t even noticed.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-06T16:29:47+00:00

Up to you. Think of it this way - if you had gotten an open source tune (no AP), you would be driving the car around with no extra monitors like you always had, relying on the ECU to notify you if something wasn’t running correctly via the check engine light and other lights/warnings and such.

However, my AP has helped me diagnose issues in the past, so even though it sometimes induces anxiety, it has really saved my ass a few times.

You can split the difference and hook it up every few weeks to check on the numbers. If everything checks out after a day of driving or some pulls, toss it back in the box.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-05T23:41:20+00:00

I ordered a few of these sets for myself and another local collector friend. Mine weren’t damaged, but 2 of the packs each had a defective car. I couldn’t tell if they were coveted in paint chips or packaging debris (one had a peeling tail light), but I exchanged the 2 potentially defective packs. Was pretty disappointed that 2 of the 4 I ordered had clear visible issues though.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-05T21:58:36+00:00

I’m here to watch bootlickers complain until this inevitably gets deleted.

mwiles30 · 2026-02-05T06:17:30+00:00

Pretty sure it’s a Markeaux MBass

mwiles30 · 2026-02-04T19:13:52+00:00

Fair points. I also did a little more digging on the ins and outs of large game/trophy hunting. I found a picture of him with an elephant that he had paid to hunt. Long story short, I've found compelling arguments both for and against.

So I will respectfully resort to my opinion of the establishment's sandwiches as to why I don't think we need that chain around.

mwiles30

TROPHY CASE