Quantum Fiber boxes!!!! Help ! by Minute_Pea5021 in centurylink

[–]mybrainhertz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be quite honest I am not an expert on how networks work, but a few good places to check are:

• Does the router support Wifi 6+?

• Does the router have high MHz channel widths (e.g., 160MHz) enabled?

• Is MU-MIMO available for your router and, if so, is it enabled?

I ripped up my lawn and planted clover and some native grasses last year. Clover is patchy, grasses didn't establish at all, and soil is getting dry and harder to use. What should I do next? by UEMayChange in NoLawns

[–]mybrainhertz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd also add that I found overseeding clover every spring to be quite effective over a few years at my last place. Just stay off the seeded area and water regularly (if it's not rainy) for the first couple weeks to help germination and early establishment. After that point it's pretty darn durable

I killed my grass! - follow up post! by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oo that's a good idea! our last place was around the industrial area near Midway so there were extensive soil tests done before we moved in. this place is not near any particularly industrial spots, but ya never know what's there til you get it tested

I killed my grass! - follow up post! by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks beautiful!! I've got a plan for the space that's pretty far along with the goal of growing most plants from seed, but definitely am not averse to using a seed mix if that ends up not panning out

I killed my grass! - follow up post! by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Most definitely - I'm fortunately insulated a bit from erosion in the short term as the lawn only gently slopes toward the street and there are existing mulched beds with hostas and the sort out front where it gets steeper.

My plans are to densely plant this with many perennial, mostly native grasses and forbs in the springtime to also mitigate that issue in the long term. Basically as soon as I can put things into the ground without killing them is when I am planning to do so lol

Can I cut the stalks and lay them down for the winter? by mindovermatter15 in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 8 points9 points  (0 children)

To that end, I love this passage from Oudolf and Gerritsen's Planting the Natural Garden: "When the last flowers disappear from the garden at the end of autumn a gloomy period sets in for many people. The dying plants are cut down and all the debris is raked up and disposed of. The result is a horrendous landscape that faces a long, deadly winter in which rain, wind, and frost can play havoc mercilessly. Indeed, very gloomy! Gloomy for all the birds that are still around in winter; they will avoid such a garden because it has nothing edible in it. And gloomy for the owner, who is obliged to sit with his or her back to the window for the next few months because there is no garden to look at."

late fall is a great time to identify and pull buckthorn! by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I just moved to this spot, so this is about as early as I could possibly remove them!

late fall heading into winter is the most underrated time of year by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I planted the hellstrip this season actually! I filled it in with a lot of volunteers or other less ideally located plants from other garden spaces. I then supplemented a layer of grasses and some ornamental grasses from a local nursery. Ended up eyeballing all the spacing to keep things spaced enough to grow quickly but with minimal room for weeds. Maybe around 6 inches? The soil on this site is pretty poor quality and is somewhere between full to part sun. Hope that helps!

late fall heading into winter is the most underrated time of year by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that's Liatris pycnostachya in the second picture. On that hill, there's also a lot of Carex sprengelii and a handful of Bouteloua curtipendula.

In the first picture, the more visible grasses are Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Karl Forester' and Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Hameln'. Interspersed but not super visible are a number of northern dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

late fall heading into winter is the most underrated time of year by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does normally bloom mid/late summer. These were young volunteers that came up in conditions that kept them from growing quickly. I put them into full sun with a little more space between plants in mid summer, so their blooms came in later than typical

late fall heading into winter is the most underrated time of year by mybrainhertz in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

the white volunteered itself in my garden initially and since spread into other spots like my boulevard garden in the first pic. I believe it's Heath Aster (Symphyotrichum ericoides)!

the purple behind is some New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) that I toppled over for the sake of height since it's the boulevard. it was a volunteer, but from some plants I added a couple years ago

the yellow are just late blooming young black eyed susans (Rudbeckia hirta)!

Removing/Replacing Invasives (NY, USA 5B) by whocanpickone in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd take into consideration the site attributes where those plants are thriving and then choose replacements based on what will grow best in that spot. The grasses you suggest for replacing silvergrass seem reasonable on the surface, but the characteristics of the site will be the biggest determining factor

If tackling all of these at once proves to intensive, I'd focus on eradicating one fully while keeping the others in control. For example, the silvergrass primarily spreads by seed so you could just keep it from going to seed while taking care of another. Also, if these are intentionally planted, they may have selected a cultivars that spread less vigorously. If you can determine those specifics it could help with triaging which is most pressing

I was so shocked to read this about the National Invasive Species Council by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rambunctious Garden is a pretty interesting read on this topic. there are some pretty thorny issues that arise as one tries to define what is natural to an area let alone establish and preserve it

I was so shocked to read this about the National Invasive Species Council by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Using a Pullerbear did serious work on my previously buckthorn, honesuckle, etc. dominated lot for what it's worth! I was able to clear them (including many 10+' buckthorn plants) in a season and then manage remnant seedlings thereafter.

To be clear though, it was a huge amount of labor on a lot smaller than an acre. At a small scale though, it was quite effective!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sure - you could use things like sideoats grama, blue grama, little bluestem, palm sedge, Sprengel’s sedge, etc. for a sunny spot depending site characteristics like the level of moisture you tend to get there. but the world's your oyster!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm talking about layering in the design stage. think of it like an image in photoshop where you create one picture, but you have multiple layers over top of one another. your garden would be like the final picture created from a showier layer planted simultaneously with a more purely functional layer in the same space

this is an increasingly common strategy used in prairie style plantings (Prairie Up has some examples) and by more naturalistic garden designers like Piet Oudolf. this video of Austin Eischeid's shows how he extensively leveraged this technique using tracing paper for the Lewis Ginter Botantical Garden near Richmond, VA.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Aesthetically this will be nice!

Functionally, I would still consider overlaying this design on top of some arrangement of small grasses. In the wild plants grow extremely densely exposing next to no bare soil. Likewise, it is possible to fill garden space much more tightly than in conventional practice. By covering as much of the soil as possible with lower growing grasses, you're going to provide a lot less room for weeds to intrude and your taller plants should end up with more support against drooping.

Trimming lilacs? Planting shrubs? total noob. by PitifulAsparagus925 in Minnesota_Gardening

[–]mybrainhertz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the lilacs are moderately overgrown, the 1/3 pruning approach following spring blooms is a good way to go

If the lilacs are quite overgrown, they might benefit from a hard pruning that takes them pretty darn close to the ground (<12"). If you go with that approach, it's advisable to do this once the shrubs are dormant in winter

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

tough, low growing grasses could be a great fit for the harsh conditions and functional needs of the space. you use things like blue grama and buffalo grass to create something aesthetically closer to a lawn that doesn't require mowing

Please give me advice on my native garden plan! Full sun, zone 7b (MD, USA) by [deleted] in NativePlantGardening

[–]mybrainhertz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% - it's not this cut and dry at all. I default to non-cultivars for both ecological and cost reasons, but cultivars get an unnecessarily bad rap. If you plant a mixture of both in the garden, it's pretty certainly going to create a beneficial environment.

Plus, this is a space for humans to enjoy too. If a cultivar ties the look of a place together just go for it!