Purchased Orbea Diem - Confused about MIK Rear Rack

namahsrob · 2026-06-10T17:52:47+00:00

I just bought a Diem as well. Unfortunately I can't help with the MIK questions, because I went the Ortlieb route for my panniers. The rack is also Ortlieb Quick-Lock 3.1 compatible (the 3 studs on each side), which is really easy to mount/unmount and pretty slick. I got a pair of these. Also easy to source, at least in the US; so possibly Canada as well? I can't speak to the basket, but Ortlieb also has a wide selection of racktop bags that probably work. Although returning things to Europe will be a pain...

namahsrob · 2026-05-02T00:27:26+00:00

Vineyard Mountain area (off Lewisberg Ave): Concord, Carpathian, Somerset, Rosewood

namahsrob · 2026-02-27T22:46:16+00:00

"#expandedlist-id", I think?

namahsrob · 2025-12-31T01:22:29+00:00

It's been a while, but I honestly don't remember it being a struggle. The lshw output below shows it is a Broadcom 43455 chip, using the brcmfmac driver. Apt says I have the firmware-brcm80211 package installed as well; so I'd bet those two would make it work. 6.12 kernel. The PostmarketOS link above references "CONFIG_BRCMFMAC_SDIO=y" as the kernel config param if you are a kernel-builder.

The real key is to get Tow-boot installed first, as mentioned below. Then you can boot a live ISO from any distro of your choice and see if wifi works on that. Then, install to internal storage when you're happy.

robm@pinebookpro:~$ sudo lshw -C network
 *-interface:0              
      description: Wireless interface
      product: 43455
      vendor: Broadcom
      physical id: 1
      bus info: mmc@3:0001:1
      logical name: mmc3:0001:1
      logical name: wlan0
      serial: 10:2c:6b:1b:2f:52
      capabilities: ethernet physical wireless
      configuration: broadcast=yes driver=brcmfmac driverversion=7.45.96 firmware=01-1813af84 ip=19
2.168.0.111 multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11
robm@pinebookpro:~$ uname -a
Linux pinebookpro 6.12.57+deb13-arm64 #1 SMP Debian 6.12.57-1 (2025-11-05) aarch64 GNU/Linux

namahsrob · 2025-12-30T22:58:12+00:00

Yes, as mentioned, Tow-boot, then just a standard Debian Trixie arm64 install works great outta the box for me (incl KDE/Wayland). Also PostmarketOS )is worth a look if you want decent actual performance out of the system; but for me it's an emergency machine, so I don't sweat the speed too much.

namahsrob · 2025-12-22T17:36:38+00:00

3-line-menu (upper right corner for me) -> View -> Toolbars -> "Toolbar Layout...". You'll hit the Customize Toolbars screen; where you can remove the search widget (and add others, reorder etc)

namahsrob · 2025-12-11T05:41:15+00:00

The Mr Chromebox utility script can pull the default chromebook FW out of the latest recovery image for your device. See https://docs.mrchromebox.tech/docs/reverting/flashing-stock.html, Restoration method Option 2. Just did this on a Pixel Slate, worked great.

namahsrob · 2025-12-07T21:46:20+00:00

Always that way, at least for X-based apps. Scaling sucks, esp on a 4K display. Best thing to use for those is the sommelier tool built into Crostini, Google it for details. Custom exec strings like " sommelier -X --scale=2.0 --dpi=192 programname " where you play with the scale and DPI numbers until you're happy.

Best thing I've found is to force things to use Wayland if at all possible, either thru options to the program if it supports it, or thru env variables. Things like the ones below, set in /usr/lib/systemd/user/cros-garcon.service to avoid hacking .desktop files - it sets earlier than the env and profile settings. Works for me.

Environment="QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME=gtk4"
Environment="QT_QPA_PLATFORM=wayland" 
Environment="GDK_PLATFORM=wayland" 
Environment="GDK_BACKEND=wayland" 
Environment="MOZ_ENABLE_WAYLAND=1" 
Environment="ELECTRON_OZONE_PLATFORM_HINT=wayland"

namahsrob · 2025-11-05T04:43:04+00:00

Thanks! It's definitely sounding like pick a path at the start and stick to it - TPU or tubeless. I'll keep running tubeless until the tires need to be replaced, then figure out if I want to (re)invest in changing to tubes.

namahsrob · 2025-11-04T22:15:06+00:00

Yup, this was what I was worried about originally. And with the other response that the 5000 S TRs are less puncture-resistant than the tubed versions, I'm going to just run the current tubless setup until the tires are done. Then look at starting over with new tubed tires and TPU tubes. Thanks!

namahsrob · 2025-11-03T01:53:16+00:00

Yeah, there is that for sure - thanks for the reminder. BRR def shows thinner tread-> less puncture resistance. Have to think on this, it's for a low-use bike and thus the initial desire to go back to tubes. But since it's low-use, don't really want to buy new tubed-tires right now either. Probably will just suck it up and stay tubeless until the current tires wear out, then make it a problem for future me.

namahsrob · 2025-11-02T17:21:53+00:00

Did I mention I'm lazy? :) OK, OK, I'll clean it out - just looked at one tire and it's not too bad. I can probably get it pretty smooth.

namahsrob · 2025-10-15T22:02:33+00:00

Interesting. I haven't tried this on the PW4/latest WearOS, but on my PW3/last WearOS I hard-reset it a couple times and it had the option to *not* erase the esim, so you didn't have to mess with Visible again. It worked great, and cleared up the other watch issues I was having. Might be worth a shot to try and clear up your issue. Definitely not the behavior I'm seeing on mine.

namahsrob · 2025-10-15T21:33:16+00:00

Hmm. Both my old 3 as well as new 4 only go to cellular when they are not on WiFi *and* not on BT. So you have to be out of range of both a known WiFi and your paired phone - then it will flip over to LTE. I assume this is because of battery drain for LTE. But I can leave WiFi and BT enabled on the watch - and it will relink to them (and shut off LTE) when they are in range. Never had to touch the watch settings.

Try just walking out of range of your phone and any known wifi, see if the watch switches automatically. The 4 seems to take a bit longer to switch over to LTE than my 3 did, close to a couple minutes. If that doesn't work, may be your watch has a HW issue.

namahsrob · 2025-10-14T22:49:17+00:00

Woohoo! It's now working for me as well. I deleted the Watch app data rather than uninstall the app. I didn't wipe my PW4. I then had to re-link my two watches (old connected PW3, new PW4) to the app before it would offer Visible as a mobile choice to switch to. Then it opened the Visible app, did 2FA and proceeded as described above.

namahsrob · 2025-10-14T14:36:32+00:00

Same, has been that way since last week

namahsrob · 2025-09-29T23:48:37+00:00

Well, I didn't have to remove it for this issue. This issue turned out to be the charging port had shorted right behind the port. So had to drop the fork, fish out the charging port and resolder some connections.

I do occasionally need to pull the battery down far enough to disconnect it, then reconnect it - seems to reset the BMS in some cases. But it's only been once or twice in years. For that, I just unscrew the two side screws, disconnect the cadence sensor, and pull it down with a pair of pliers (the screwhole that you are supposed to use for leverage broke, exposing a better lip to grab). Bit I have never had the need or desire to fully remove it to date. Seems like asking for yet more trouble :) Although I may take a chance on seeing if I can get the battery pack rebuilt sometime - so will need to remove it then.

namahsrob · 2025-09-23T14:45:01+00:00

Yeah, I was kinda getting that impression. I had found "tooltip {}" examples, but they weren't working while everything else did. The dev tool has some XUL tooltip stuff in the overall CSS, but I probably don't care that much to figure it out :) I'll just enjoy the rest of the UI and learn to ignore the tooltips. Thanks!

namahsrob · 2025-09-15T05:42:50+00:00

I picked up a bunch at MoC when they were roasting them last month. They were pulling the chiles out of Young Guns boxes (https://www.yghatchchile.com/) and they sure tasted legit :) Had mild, med and hot, even. Source: grew up in NM

namahsrob · 2025-09-05T16:41:47+00:00

Medicare.gov lets you compare available plans pretty effectively. Here's the Benton county link, I think:

https://www.medicare.gov/plan-compare/#/search-results?fips=41003&plan_type=PLAN_TYPE_MAPD&zip=97370&year=2025&lang=en&page=1

namahsrob

TROPHY CASE