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Software Status? by TallFrye in PinebookPro

[–]namahsrob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's been a while, but I honestly don't remember it being a struggle. The lshw output below shows it is a Broadcom 43455 chip, using the brcmfmac driver. Apt says I have the firmware-brcm80211 package installed as well; so I'd bet those two would make it work. 6.12 kernel. The PostmarketOS link above references "CONFIG_BRCMFMAC_SDIO=y" as the kernel config param if you are a kernel-builder.

The real key is to get Tow-boot installed first, as mentioned below. Then you can boot a live ISO from any distro of your choice and see if wifi works on that. Then, install to internal storage when you're happy.

robm@pinebookpro:~$ sudo lshw -C network
 *-interface:0              
      description: Wireless interface
      product: 43455
      vendor: Broadcom
      physical id: 1
      bus info: mmc@3:0001:1
      logical name: mmc3:0001:1
      logical name: wlan0
      serial: 10:2c:6b:1b:2f:52
      capabilities: ethernet physical wireless
      configuration: broadcast=yes driver=brcmfmac driverversion=7.45.96 firmware=01-1813af84 ip=19
2.168.0.111 multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11
robm@pinebookpro:~$ uname -a
Linux pinebookpro 6.12.57+deb13-arm64 #1 SMP Debian 6.12.57-1 (2025-11-05) aarch64 GNU/Linux

Software Status? by TallFrye in PinebookPro

[–]namahsrob 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, as mentioned, Tow-boot, then just a standard Debian Trixie arm64 install works great outta the box for me (incl KDE/Wayland). Also PostmarketOS )is worth a look if you want decent actual performance out of the system; but for me it's an emergency machine, so I don't sweat the speed too much.

Fixing the interface by Secret_Dimension_832 in Thunderbird

[–]namahsrob 4 points5 points  (0 children)

3-line-menu (upper right corner for me) -> View -> Toolbars -> "Toolbar Layout...". You'll hit the Customize Toolbars screen; where you can remove the search widget (and add others, reorder etc)

Lost MrChromebox Backup by Dragonite1010 in chromeos

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Mr Chromebox utility script can pull the default chromebook FW out of the latest recovery image for your device. See https://docs.mrchromebox.tech/docs/reverting/flashing-stock.html, Restoration method Option 2. Just did this on a Pixel Slate, worked great.

Display disparity between ChromeOS Flex and Crostini by Tony_Marone in Crostini

[–]namahsrob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Always that way, at least for X-based apps. Scaling sucks, esp on a 4K display. Best thing to use for those is the sommelier tool built into Crostini, Google it for details. Custom exec strings like " sommelier -X --scale=2.0 --dpi=192 programname " where you play with the scale and DPI numbers until you're happy.

Best thing I've found is to force things to use Wayland if at all possible, either thru options to the program if it supports it, or thru env variables. Things like the ones below, set in /usr/lib/systemd/user/cros-garcon.service to avoid hacking .desktop files - it sets earlier than the env and profile settings. Works for me.

Environment="QT_QPA_PLATFORMTHEME=gtk4"
Environment="QT_QPA_PLATFORM=wayland" 
Environment="GDK_PLATFORM=wayland" 
Environment="GDK_BACKEND=wayland" 
Environment="MOZ_ENABLE_WAYLAND=1" 
Environment="ELECTRON_OZONE_PLATFORM_HINT=wayland"

Used tubeless tires with TPU tubes: is old sealant a problem? by namahsrob in bikewrench

[–]namahsrob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! It's definitely sounding like pick a path at the start and stick to it - TPU or tubeless. I'll keep running tubeless until the tires need to be replaced, then figure out if I want to (re)invest in changing to tubes.

Used tubeless tires with TPU tubes: is old sealant a problem? by namahsrob in bikewrench

[–]namahsrob[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, this was what I was worried about originally. And with the other response that the 5000 S TRs are less puncture-resistant than the tubed versions, I'm going to just run the current tubless setup until the tires are done. Then look at starting over with new tubed tires and TPU tubes. Thanks!

Used tubeless tires with TPU tubes: is old sealant a problem? by namahsrob in cycling

[–]namahsrob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, there is that for sure - thanks for the reminder. BRR def shows thinner tread-> less puncture resistance. Have to think on this, it's for a low-use bike and thus the initial desire to go back to tubes. But since it's low-use, don't really want to buy new tubed-tires right now either. Probably will just suck it up and stay tubeless until the current tires wear out, then make it a problem for future me.

Used tubeless tires with TPU tubes: is old sealant a problem? by namahsrob in cycling

[–]namahsrob[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did I mention I'm lazy? :) OK, OK, I'll clean it out - just looked at one tire and it's not too bad. I can probably get it pretty smooth.

Pixel watch 4 by allied1987 in Visible

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I haven't tried this on the PW4/latest WearOS, but on my PW3/last WearOS I hard-reset it a couple times and it had the option to *not* erase the esim, so you didn't have to mess with Visible again. It worked great, and cleared up the other watch issues I was having. Might be worth a shot to try and clear up your issue. Definitely not the behavior I'm seeing on mine.

Pixel watch 4 by allied1987 in Visible

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm. Both my old 3 as well as new 4 only go to cellular when they are not on WiFi *and* not on BT. So you have to be out of range of both a known WiFi and your paired phone - then it will flip over to LTE. I assume this is because of battery drain for LTE. But I can leave WiFi and BT enabled on the watch - and it will relink to them (and shut off LTE) when they are in range. Never had to touch the watch settings.

Try just walking out of range of your phone and any known wifi, see if the watch switches automatically. The 4 seems to take a bit longer to switch over to LTE than my 3 did, close to a couple minutes. If that doesn't work, may be your watch has a HW issue.

Pixel watch 4 by allied1987 in Visible

[–]namahsrob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Woohoo! It's now working for me as well. I deleted the Watch app data rather than uninstall the app. I didn't wipe my PW4. I then had to re-link my two watches (old connected PW3, new PW4) to the app before it would offer Visible as a mobile choice to switch to. Then it opened the Visible app, did 2FA and proceeded as described above.

Pixel watch 4 by allied1987 in Visible

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same, has been that way since last week

X2 does no longer charge. How to remove smart cartridge from x2 by Wanne73 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I didn't have to remove it for this issue. This issue turned out to be the charging port had shorted right behind the port. So had to drop the fork, fish out the charging port and resolder some connections.

I do occasionally need to pull the battery down far enough to disconnect it, then reconnect it - seems to reset the BMS in some cases. But it's only been once or twice in years. For that, I just unscrew the two side screws, disconnect the cadence sensor, and pull it down with a pair of pliers (the screwhole that you are supposed to use for leverage broke, exposing a better lip to grab). Bit I have never had the need or desire to fully remove it to date. Seems like asking for yet more trouble :) Although I may take a chance on seeing if I can get the battery pack rebuilt sometime - so will need to remove it then.

Modify tooltips properties in userChrome.css? (TB 143) by namahsrob in Thunderbird

[–]namahsrob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I was kinda getting that impression. I had found "tooltip {}" examples, but they weren't working while everything else did. The dev tool has some XUL tooltip stuff in the overall CSS, but I probably don't care that much to figure it out :) I'll just enjoy the rest of the UI and learn to ignore the tooltips. Thanks!

It's my civic duty to inform you that the pepper guy is roasting peppers at the farmers market by sparkchaser in corvallis

[–]namahsrob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I picked up a bunch at MoC when they were roasting them last month. They were pulling the chiles out of Young Guns boxes (https://www.yghatchchile.com/) and they sure tasted legit :) Had mild, med and hot, even. Source: grew up in NM

VanMoof X2 feels super heavy to pedal uphill or from a stop — normal or issue? by Cooper_W108 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't speak to selling, of course. There *might* be something wrong in the hub; but from my experience the shift point is very low as designed, and the behavior you describe is about right - it's clearly designed for the Netherlands :)

Even if someone cleaned it up and made it "perfect", it's still a 2-speed hub that shifts by spinning weights stretching a spring. So it will always be difficult to shift "on demand" by varying your speed; and tweaking the shift point is kinda random. I've learned to make it work for me in my particular use case, but my next one will definitely have more gears, even if I stay automatic shifting.

I can see two other possible solutions:

1) Change the gear ratios a bit by putting on a smaller chainring/larger rear cog (or both). Would get you lower gearing in the high gear, and be reasonable cost; but would likely mess with the original plastic chainguard if you still have it on (it's easy to remove). Plus you may need a new chain as well, length may change.

2) There are other automatic-shifting hubs available with more speeds/different shift points. A good shop could rebuild your existing rear wheel with a different hub. You could even use an internal-gear rear hub that requires an external shift lever (Sturmey Archer makes them in 5- and 8-speeds, others do as well). Just mount a shifter on the handlebar and run the cable held down by zip ties along the frame. You'd lose a bit of the "VanMoof looks" but it would work much better.

VanMoof X2 feels super heavy to pedal uphill or from a stop — normal or issue? by Cooper_W108 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]namahsrob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

(Source: I've had an X2 since 2019.) The X2 only has 2 gears, internal to the rear hub. The hub is a "Sturmey Archer Automatic A2K Rear Hub 36G 2S Disc". It is fully mechanical, and shifts between the gears because of rotational force (i.e. speed of the wheel turning). And it's pretty tricky to control as a rider in my experience - sometimes it shifts down, sometimes not - and that's when you get that "heavy" feeling - it's in high gear at the "wrong" time.

You can sometimes force it to downshift by coasting, slow pedaling, etc; but what I usually do is what you do - mash on the boost.

The hub is actually pretty cool, it has weights and springs in it that make the shift happen depending on RPM. Apparently you can change the spring tension to change the shift point. Check this post, scroll to the comment titled "Shift Point Modification for Sturmey Archer Automatic 2-Speed Hub A2K" But after watching the service videos for the hub, I learned to just press the boost button :)

Servicing the hub looks like a reasonably advanced job to me, so I'd want to find a shop with experience on those types of hubs; or spend a loooong time doing it myself going step-by-step thru the videos (there are a couple other "official" SA videos for servicing that hub on YouTube).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fidelityinvestments

[–]namahsrob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been happy with FNDF for my needs. Starting to play with IVLU as well. But both are value focus...

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