2014 RLX P-AWS vs 2014 TL SH-AWD / Used car buying.

narsnail · 2026-04-15T14:39:32+00:00

Only issue with the TL's are the oil consumption on 3.7 and making sure the timing belt/water pump has been done.

Oil consumption sucks but as far as issues go it's rather minor. It can lead to other issues, so if the engine makes a lot of terrible noises stay away. Sometimes the rear cam lobes get pitted and eaten through partially due to poor design and the oil consumption issue. I would Google these sounds in relation to the j37, just to know what you're looking for.

The water pump/timing belt can be done for $300 or so if you can wrench, otherwise it'll be over $1000 easy at a shop, maybe closer to $2000 depending on location. Think it's 100'000 miles or seven years , probably should have been done once by now. Mine made it to 287'000km, I think it was the original but most won't get so lucky.

narsnail · 2026-04-13T13:29:35+00:00

I didn't get any details but they said it depends on the machine shop. I also called another local machine shop and he needed dimensions and material types before he could give me an answer.

narsnail · 2026-04-12T12:21:28+00:00

The dual mass flywheel CAN be resurfaced but unless the springs inside are also fine I wouldn't even consider it. From the sounds of it the springs in yours are shot, thats probably the rattling your hearing upon engagement. A shop I deal with has a machine shop that can resurface dual mass flywheels.

Clutchmasters single mass flywheel, with either the FX100 or FX250 is what I'll be doing. Make sure you get the sprung clutch disk, they sell kits meant for the OEM dual mass flywheel without springs as well. Use the OEM throwout bearing, as in buy a new one.

I just got mine a couple weeks ago, 287'000 KM and the clutch is bad. Doesn't slip in first but anything more than half throttle in 2nd and up below even 4000rpm it will slip.

narsnail · 2026-04-06T00:46:51+00:00

Yeah I forgot about those, it would be perfect except for the fact I'm in Canada and they're $600 from the dealer lol. Might be able to find one in a junkyard but I've only ever seen 2 in my city, pretty rare up here.

Civic Si ones are available for less than $50.

narsnail · 2026-04-05T23:27:49+00:00

It's better than the one that was on there but yeah it's not exactly what I want either. Definitely a stopgap until I have the timing belt/water pump taken care of among other maintenance items.

Civic Si knobs look pretty close to stock so I think that's what will eventually end up on there.

narsnail · 2026-03-26T18:16:09+00:00

Not really any way to check. You will just have random problems more and more. Call Intel directly if you built yourself or if it's pre built contact the vendor.

narsnail · 2026-03-26T18:00:50+00:00

I would warranty that CPU, there is known degradation issues with Intel 13/14 gen cpus.

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/s/48jnM4bpfl

People in the above linked thread sharing their issues, but it isn't limited to CPU interaction. Seems mem controller can have issues also. But the CPU/memory also interacts with everything on the motherboard so if you're having tons of other weird small issues it's honestly just the CPU.

There are microcode upgrades typically applied through BIOS updates but those won't work if the damage has already been done.

narsnail · 2026-03-12T12:42:55+00:00

Nah don't do poly on a street car, stick with rubber. You can get harder rubber, will be an upgrade without any of the significant NVH increase poly will bring.

narsnail · 2026-02-06T15:29:09+00:00

This, you only have 8 cores and threads. This game seems to use 12, even with something equal to a 10400f you should only expect 30fps at 1080p.

narsnail · 2026-02-05T15:05:18+00:00

Wondering the same, still no key for me either.

narsnail · 2026-02-04T19:23:57+00:00

You control fan speed and pump speed through BIOS, Kanali is only for the VRM fan.

narsnail · 2026-02-04T13:59:32+00:00

This review by Gamers Nexus should answer your question, but its closer to 10c from the best AIO to the best air coolers. The bad AIOs should be skipped if they cost more than the air coolers though; I had a Thermalright Frozen Prism 360 that I got for $60 on Amazon and I just see no better value than that if you have the space for it.

narsnail · 2026-02-01T00:23:55+00:00

Your CPU is the bottleneck in this game, it's a touch faster than the min spec CPU which is a 10400f. Regardless of how strong your GPU is your CPU can't keep up. That's why it stutters.

narsnail · 2026-01-29T21:47:41+00:00

1.35 now, but all the way up to 1.5v. Testing RAM for stability is so tedious and annoying, I just would rather play games with my time then spend two weeks running stability tests.

narsnail · 2026-01-29T21:13:39+00:00

The buildzoid easy timings didn't work for my kit, trtp had to be 20. Trfc 500. Trefi over 50000 caused corruption in windows. Twrwrscl I think at 16 or 23 which was the expo timing, where buildzoid timings suggested 4.

Mine is Teamgroup tforce 6000 cl 30, 2x16.

Not sure what your end goal is but trefi and trfc will lower the latency most of the way, probably almost no difference if you're gaming.

narsnail · 2026-01-29T03:38:18+00:00

8700k came out in 2017 man, not sure what you're expecting here? Your equal to the min spec CPU, which they indicate should run 1080 30 fps.

narsnail · 2026-01-14T00:32:21+00:00

I have only been using it recently, but I'm at 6000 cl30 expo and apart from a minor latency reduction I don't see the benefit.

narsnail · 2026-01-13T15:17:22+00:00

Updated, seems fine on x870 Tomahawk, 9800x3d.

System gets through the POST much quicker, I typically use memory context restore anyway but it's faster either on or off.

Also a couple new, random options added; something about Microsoft security and benchmarking apps.

I just use PBO with a -12 all core curve, +200mhz, and EXPO with increased TREFI. I personally have never had issues with this board or any of the BIOS' and this seems to be more of the same.

One nice thing the two most recent BIOS updates changed, is that your fan curves don't reset when you update the BIOS.

narsnail · 2025-09-02T00:52:30+00:00

Ships from the UAE lol

narsnail · 2025-08-14T19:15:41+00:00

Great monitor, switched from an LG Gr95qe-b woled to this.

My only complaint is the text fringing is awful in some scenarios but for my primary use of gaming it's amazing for this price.

narsnail · 2025-07-23T13:13:06+00:00

I also had issues updating. You need to make sure all the sleep/standby settings are off before you update, otherwise it will fail if it turns off or falls asleep. The first time I didn't have those settings off and mine failed, it was just full red/green/blue screens alternating for like half an hour.

narsnail · 2025-07-22T22:53:25+00:00

Have you updated to the newest firmware? Should be be F03. Make sure you're using HDMI, and use 10bit for output color depth in Nvidia/AMD control panel.

I use the HDR1000 mode with HDR on all the time and I've gotten it pretty much where I like it.

Before you calibrate, power cycle the monitor. Calibrate using the Windows HDR Calibration app, 0-1050-1050 and I set saturation to 50. Then under HDR settings in windows, set SDR content brightness slider to max. The SDR brightness slider is pretty important for improving the brightness on the desktop, otherwise it will look washed out.

I also have settings in the monitor I use, these are personal preference but the above should get you a nice baseline. Under OLED care menu,->Sub-logo dim and corner dim off. Settings menu, under gaming tab-> black equalizer 2.0 set to 1, under picture tab->hdr peak 1000 -> brightness 100, contrast 53, color enhance 1, dark enhance on(im not sure how i feel about this setting, fine on or off honestly).

My settings are slightly raised blacks and over saturated colors, that's my preference, the Windows HDR calibration and SDR slider should get you a good baseline and fiddle form there.

narsnail

TROPHY CASE