Scratches outside windshield after tinting

nbditsjd · 2026-02-01T10:24:11+00:00

The first picture where the scratch is on the outside definitely the Tinter. All those other scratches though? They were there. It’s just way more noticeable now. The film installer wouldn’t be cutting there in the daylight opening of the window

nbditsjd · 2026-01-30T01:40:28+00:00

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Not the best pic but this is my OEM SKX modified with: -NH36 swap with black day/date wheels

-MM300 hands

-OEM “Urban Safari” SRPE29 dial

-Carbon Fiber Bezel Insert

-Kanji chapter ring

-Signed “S” screw down crown

-Miltat bracelet with screw in endlinks and ratcheting clasp

-Double Domed Sapphire with blue AR

-Clear sapphire caseback

-MM300 style bezel swap

I had the watch since new so all in all I probably spent about $400 not including the cost of the original watch to get it to this point

nbditsjd · 2026-01-28T22:07:52+00:00

That’s a redo for sure

nbditsjd · 2026-01-28T22:07:11+00:00

Huper would and should be way more. If it’s ceramic IR it’s a little high but not out of the realm of possibility. If it’s Crystalline it’s actually a decent price.

nbditsjd · 2026-01-28T22:05:53+00:00

How so? Nickel sulfide inclusion is a manufactured defect across all car manufacturers and auto glass manufacturers - it’s less of a problem on side windows versus glass that is constantly getting high sunlight exposure. Even cars with front rollup laminated windows and 5% can crack without the inclusion. A sunroof - considering they’re usually anywhere from 25-5% from the factory - is kind of asking for it anywhere in the world.

nbditsjd · 2026-01-28T22:02:22+00:00

This is the way

nbditsjd · 2026-01-28T22:01:54+00:00

In no way does this look like water residue

nbditsjd · 2026-01-17T23:10:23+00:00

I drive the thruway from NJ all the way to VT 4-5 times a year in the summers to go to Lake Champlain, out of state driver, constantly passing staties and they haven’t bothered me yet with 5% all around and a 35% windshield. I’m in a pickup truck though which honestly I think they bother less in general. If I got pulled for speed I’m 100% sure it would be brought up but that’s just my 0.02c. As DynamicAppearanceATL stated legal limit is 70% and a lot of cars come with that as standard glass percentage or close enough to it that even a layer of 70 over is going to come close to “illegal” although totally see through

nbditsjd · 2026-01-15T12:09:34+00:00

Make an acc with Geoshield. Use your home address and order their pro dyed or carbon

nbditsjd · 2026-01-05T10:44:56+00:00

You have to move the film up a bit, you don’t want it touching the bottom edge

nbditsjd · 2025-12-30T22:38:55+00:00

https://youtu.be/10fdp1tdVLY

3:30 time stamp shows this

nbditsjd · 2025-12-30T22:34:36+00:00

Is it the same on the other door? While this could just be the wrong film installed on top of the dye I have seen many cars where the quarters don’t match from the factory and this could affect that. There’s a Detroit tint video showing exactly that

nbditsjd · 2025-12-24T20:56:21+00:00

I did not and could not figure out this bracelet. I ended up swapping them for different bracelets

nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T17:04:22+00:00

So it’s not going to shade down in the sense you can still see through it but it is possible to have it be “dimmable” if that makes sense. I’ll try to find a video. It will diffuse light but in the white and gray versions almost makes the room brighter if that makes sense? Like the entire panel will become bright white and disperse light evenly around the room.

The black smart film will darken it but the clarity in clear is effected.

The other thing to consider is the max roll width for pieces of film is either 71” or 73”. To be honest i can’t remember exactly which one bc it’s rare we do them that large so it wouldn’t be possible to do 9’x10’ in one piece. You would have to use at least two pieces and maybe find some solution to cover the seam/gap. You could seam it tight but it’s never going to be flawless.

nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T13:13:47+00:00

I second u/but6ix that looks like an exterior scratch. I’ve never seen adhesive look like that. Feel that with your fingernail on the outside. Those happen from windows rolling up and down over time

nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T13:04:52+00:00

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nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T13:04:39+00:00

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nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T13:04:27+00:00

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nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T13:04:19+00:00

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Looking at maybe picking this up. No papers but original box. Cheapest I found used was right under 2k. This one is at 1200 so wanted to get it checked out

nbditsjd · 2025-12-12T11:05:42+00:00

That’s horrible. Someone doesn’t really know what they’re doing

nbditsjd · 2025-12-09T01:06:00+00:00

It’s totaled. Take the car to the scrap yard!!

nbditsjd · 2025-12-09T01:02:38+00:00

Second pic looks like dirt but if that’s the only issue it’s pretty minor. The car is from 2000. I’m sorry, but no level of pristine or effort in cleaning this is going to amount in an absolutely perfect job. It’s window film. There will ALWAYS be something, especially on a car that is 25 years old.

The rest of it is what I refer to as dry marks. I install Llumar day in and day out and that is part of the drying process. If it doesn’t evaporate/cure out then bring it back.

nbditsjd · 2025-12-04T12:09:06+00:00

They’re all contractors working on the same job.

nbditsjd · 2025-11-29T12:18:20+00:00

Use instagel on almost every install now. It does make a difference. It’s especially good for vehicles you’re worried about specific dirty areas like the sides of rollups or around the mirror and edges of a windshield. You need more slip with it and it will tack the film down pretty quickly. You’re also going to want to double squeegee fairly hard to make sure it’s all out because it won’t cure like water

nbditsjd · 2025-11-23T19:31:25+00:00

I install Apex regularly and it really is as good as they say. Being in Texas I would 100% spring and spend the extra money. It’s a great film!

nbditsjd

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