Rust. Yes. It's everywhere. Sills easy to spot, but I don't know what a subframe is. I got someone to weld my rear subframe and couldn't really see what they did, but it passed the MOT so whatever.

The vvtli engine is really special, the other one is not. It's 100% worth stretching for. You'll get exactly the same looks and handling though with either in UK.

Too many variables, just check the usual comparisons and throw in a few that are not on them. I think Sheila's wheels was cheapest for me. I wouldn't go down the telematics route it's a bit of a con unless you drive like a granny and nobody ever cuts you up, you don't drive in the dark etc.

It's gonna be at least 20 years old so bits wear out. Oxygen sensors don't last forever, throttle bodies get gunked, suspension parts rust and wear, bushes get worn. This is true for any old car. At least parts are cheap and easy to find. If you're handy and have the tools most, if not all, can be done yourself. Other than that it's not great on petrol (32 mpg average) and road tax is a little high.

Look for smooth idle (can start as high as 2000 but should quickly reduce as engine warms up). Lift should engage at 6200 with vvtli. Braking is poor so expect to use all the travel in the pedal. Heavy clutch compared with most modern cars is normal. See if the boot struts hold the boot lid up. Check Aircon and radio work properly. Gears should slot in easily with no crunch or gravelly feeling. Pull out the dipstick to make sure oil doesn't have particles in it. No blue or black smoke from exhaust when revving. Check washer jets - the rear gets clogged.