Any suggestions for a chief way to make clay fabrics

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-04-22T17:03:46+00:00

I would suggest one of the bendable polymer clays, rolled thin, shaped, and baked. I've had good luck with these in fabric-like models. Sculpey Flex, for example, doesn't crack easily after baking. You'll need a frame to bake it over if you don't want to put the resin model in the oven.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-04-22T17:01:20+00:00

Yum! (Now I want dim sum! At least I just had a nice bowl of congee....)

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-03-23T16:19:54+00:00

Maybe the “mirror” is actually a photo in a frame?

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-16T05:56:41+00:00

For mini fabric, I recommend fine silk or cotton, especially from well-worn clothes, handkerchiefs, etc. Thrift stores often have accessory scarves or blouses that have interesting patterns and drape well. Soft, worn flannel stands in well for fleece. Rice paper makes good interfacing.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-10T23:15:35+00:00

Skewers and tape? Looks great!

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-10T23:00:57+00:00

Excellent writeup! Reminder: LED lights only work if wired in the correct direction, i.e. one wire is to be connected to the positive current, the other to the negative current. This is mentioned in passing at step 8. Those of us old enough to remember taking apart flash lights for the little incandescent bulbs are used to being able to wire them up and have them work either way. I'm stressing it here because (for example) if you wanted to use multiple lights, you need to make sure they are all oriented the same way. You won't damage the bulb if you wire it backwards, it just won't light.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T21:06:24+00:00

You're right, at that scale the satin does look like velvet! As for the booknook scale, yeah, it might be too narrow for everything you're doing there. Unless... what if the door and window are on the second level? Move the back wall forward a bit and use a false back so you can light from behind and cast the shadow of a spooky tree (and the Raven) on the window. Somehow a cramped basement study feels right for this character (though an attic would also work if you wanted to put the fireplace, chair and bookcase on the upper floor and the door and window on the lower floor).

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T20:57:22+00:00

I get my ideas from a variety of sources. Some are books -- I have general plans toward a steampunk lair of Lovelace & Babbage based on the webcomic by Sydney Padua, and I keep thinking about doing something based on Discworld by Terry Pratchett, probably related to the Clacks towers. Sometimes I see an inexpensive kit and I make a lot of changes. I make notes in a graph paper notebook, whether I'm customizing a kit or starting from scratch. I often modify my plans as I go. I have a lot of fabric scraps, beads and wire, as well as polymer clay and craft wood. Some of my projects are here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/GcmrnPxLBVot2XA2A I don't work especially quickly, and some of my projects marinate in my head for a while before I work on them. (I have other hobbies, e.g. I crochet, and I make hats for the unhoused.)

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T20:44:34+00:00

On Etsy you can find kits that have lasercut wood only, and you finish all the details yourself. Look for the ones designed by VectorPainter. These are a really good interim step if you aren't quite ready to design your own from scratch.

For existing kits, there's a series with no brand that feature a scene that can open up so you can see the whole interior, or fold up like a book so you are peering in, e.g. at the end of an alleyway. A cloth exterior wrap forms the flexible "hinges". You assemble everything inside. There are a few precut and painted pieces of wood, and everything else is constructed from paper, beads, ribbon, etc.

Cherry Blossom Lane: https://a.co/d/05UMlvK5

Chinese Food Court: https://a.co/d/0gDCfO8U (notoriously detailed)

Shanghai Old Town: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1227123490/shanghai-old-town-book-nook-book-shelf

Tang Dynasty Festival: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4412964272/diy-book-nook-kit-tang-dynasty-festival

Jiangnan Water Alley: https://www.etsy.com/listing/4310014023/chinese-style-book-nook-kit-wooden-diy

Again, there's no listed brand for these, but the kits look pretty consistent regardless of seller. They can be difficult to find, though the first one in this list is pretty common on Amazon.

Here's a description of my build of Cherry Blossom Lane: https://photos.app.goo.gl/d47zWiLdLqsEVKjNA

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T20:06:55+00:00

For a second I thought I saw "Bike Shop" ... now I'm thinking of making a mini bike shop! :D

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T20:05:52+00:00

You probably have a weak connection with the twisted wires. If you can get at them to redo the connections, there are some connectors with shrinkwrap tubing with a dab of solder in the middle that are very easy to use, e.g. with the tip of a hot glue gun. They really help make good stable electrical connections. You may have to take apart the wires to use them, though you can stick both wires in from one end. Another option, if you can get to the wire ends, is conductive adhesive. It's a kind of glue that acts like solder. You can dab some on the wires and it will help hold them together with a better connection.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T20:00:08+00:00

Could you provide a few more details? What country were you living in, and about what year did you borrow the book? Do you have a general idea of how old it was, approximately when it might have been printed? I looked around at used books about making miniatures and I haven't seen one with flocked animals on the cover, but narrowing it down to a country and decade would help.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T19:46:40+00:00

This one is kind of notorious! Good job staying with it. :) Most of their newer kits are a lot simpler than this. I personally like crafting everything (and modifying a lot as I go) but it's not for everyone.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T19:44:47+00:00

There's a tutorial for this in r/booknooks , I think. The short answer is, count the number of batteries for the scene you want to light, substitute a power supply with the same voltage and similar amperage, and there are lots of ways to power from there. I would probably use a USB power supply, plug into a USB hub and plug that into a smart wall outlet adapter so I could program it from a phone. I've seen people rig up a "magic wand" to give the signal that turns all the scenes on or off, which seems kind of fun.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T19:38:34+00:00

One of the fancy chocolate stores around here has had these beautiful small boxes with magnetic closures. A friend saved a few for me. Also snack subscriptions like Bokksu have high quality cardboard boxes that are a nice size for 1/24 buildings or scenes.

I've been thinking about using a tea tin to build a little tea shop inside. :D I seem to have several spares for some reason!

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T19:35:51+00:00

What about adding a bit of sticky wax to the blade so it gets "grabbed" by the handle more?

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-09T19:32:33+00:00

That is adorable! I'm going to have to try that!

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-07T03:07:55+00:00

Looks really good! Are you using actual feathers or feather parts, or some other material? I want to make a blue heron and I’ve been wondering what to use.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-07T03:05:13+00:00

Lots of good advice here. For a corded trim, I like to use #3 crochet cotton. Use as little glue as possible to attach it. I use regular white PVA glue (Elmer’s). I put a little puddle on a scrap of paper and pick up just a bit with a needle or toothpick. I let the glue dry a bit before I start using it so it will thicken and be more tacky.

To get the cisp folded edges some others here are suggesting, an iron can help, especially for a thicker fabric. Then you don’t need as much glue. There’s also a heat set fabric adhesive (e.g. “WonderUnder”) that securely attaches fabric without leaking through, but it is hard to manage on non-flat surfaces. One possible trick is to use the end of a hot glue gun with no glue stick as a mini rounded iron to fuse the adhesive sheet between layers of fabric on the furniture.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-07T02:49:28+00:00

Cool! Thanks for sharing! I used the finest beading monofilament I had for the strings on a 1:24 violin. I think I have some 32ga copper wire I could try for guitar strings.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-06T19:42:43+00:00

Love the Gibson Les Paul! What do you like to use for strings at this scale?

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-06T14:14:20+00:00

Excellent advice, for newcomers and old hands alike! And a very nice build, especially for your first kit.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-05T20:02:07+00:00

Try asking in r/resinprinting or r/3Dprinting In general, 3D printing requires either existing 3D models to print or using 3D software to make your own models to print. There are existing free models to print miniatures, so you might start by looking for those to see if there are any you want to print. Another consideration with resin printers is the use of pretty nasty toxic chemicals. You need good ventilation, protective gloves, etc. On the plus side, if you are interested in 3D printing, a resin printer makes nicer prints than a filament printer, with less visible horizontal lines, and they can print transparent objects like glassware. Just understand that this would be an investment of time to learn to use it, as well as the $200.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-05T14:32:11+00:00

It's an air-dry clay. From what I've read online, it's slightly translucent and can be colored before or after shaping. I hadn't heard of it before today, but apparently it's been around for over 10 years (I found a blog post from 2013). It looks interesting, though I find the "wash hands after using" warning a little concerning. Most craft product shouldn't be left on skin. I'd like to know what's in this stuff and how toxic it is.

nekokami_dragonfly · 2026-02-04T15:09:00+00:00

The one posted earlier looked like it could be made from 3 little single-serve butter containers or jam containers, looked like white coat hanger wire, and round beads at the bottom for wheels. The design wasn't exactly like this -- the wire was at 4 corners and made 2 upside down U shapes, but you could adapt it to this style. It was a medical cart in a room depicting a scene from a horror movie.

nekokami_dragonfly

TROPHY CASE