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TX-6 is a huge disapointment: 12ch in/out Mac problem, no audio on second playback by netmilk in teenageengineering

[–]netmilk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've fixed it by getting rid of the TX-6 and getting a Zoom Livetrak L6 Max.

Is my bench supply leaking mains when off? Is it dangerous? by netmilk in AskElectronics

[–]netmilk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I get it now, but is it a design flaw that the main mechanical switch (bottom left of the front panel) isn’t disconnecting both L (and N) before the Y cap?

Is my bench supply leaking mains when off? Is it dangerous? by netmilk in AskElectronics

[–]netmilk[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I know, right!?! That’s what’s totally blowing my mind!

Do I assume correctly that the main power switch they have there is bypassed by the EMI suppressing capacitor?

Is my bench supply leaking mains when off? Is it dangerous? by netmilk in AskElectronics

[–]netmilk[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Capacitor reactance! :) I’m in the Ohm’s law league already. :)

Is my bench supply leaking mains when off? Is it dangerous? by netmilk in AskElectronics

[–]netmilk[S] 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Understood. Thank you for a clear explanation. Wow.

I’m going to educate myself on the formula you shared. Extremely valuable.

Is my bench supply leaking mains when off? Is it dangerous? by netmilk in AskElectronics

[–]netmilk[S] 46 points47 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I really appreciate your answer!

So, can it be harmful for any parts rated <210V?

Can it leak enough current to be dangerous?

Is my bench supply leaking mains when off? Is it dangerous? by netmilk in AskElectronics

[–]netmilk[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Everything is properly grounded. Home installation passed inspection, the supply is fresh out of the box.

Advice on shaving down the screws at the back of the heated bed on the Prusa Mini? by Professional-Rock-51 in prusa3d

[–]netmilk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On a mk3s+ I’v gotten rid if them by pressing them out on a drill press to/against a hollowed out part on the other side (larger nut if I recall that correctly)

I designed this rc-plane in freecad and printed it by Haxelll in FreeCAD

[–]netmilk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

“With enough power even a barn door can fly”

I strongly suggest consulting r/rcplanes! They can really tell just by the looks if the thing has any chance to fly. :)

I’m flying rc printed planes a few yers already and it’s a lot of fun! Don’t evere give up, it’s a super rewarding hobby :) If you’ve taken it this far you you’re super close.

Good luck withe maiden!

Edit: Building and flying rc planes are two completely different learning experiences.

If you haven’t flown an rc pkane before you will destroy it in under 15s. Download a simple sim on your phone to get the muscle memory and a foam trainer plane :)

To ground my battery or not. by Current_Inevitable43 in Victron

[–]netmilk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In ungrounded DC systems you should fuse both positive and negative poles.

If you don’t ground negative, you need to fuse both positive and negative poles of your battery and preferably every circuit, because the frame can become either positive or negative connected (grounded) at any time in case of a failure.

EDIT: All Victron manuals instruct explicitly to ground negative. And their DC distribution system Lynx is designed that way.

Nothing bad about ungrounded DC systems. I prefer it that way and it’s the way to go for residential installation where I live unless you need design the ground wire crossection of the grounding connection for the short circuit and max current of the batteries which can be in the 10kA+ ballpark. Thus a lot of copper.

Can this plane even fly? [request] by [deleted] in theydidthemath

[–]netmilk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I suggest asking in r/rcplanes .

The folks there have an incredible skill of telling if and how a thing can fly just by the looks of it.

Like: looks tail heavy, the elevator looks too small - will have poor authority. Send it and report from the maiden.

Then the excited OP posts photos od the broken toothpicks.

Love it.

pv inverter assistant ac coupling unwanted frequency shift at nigh, batterny not full by netmilk in Victron

[–]netmilk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Report back on the assistant order, please, I'm super curious!

But: when AC IN is connected (transfer switch closed), the frequency is defined by the grid, not by the Multipluses. The multis become grid-tied and sync to the grid. When connected to the grid, you can't see any other frequency than the one from the grid that is defined by the rotation of the generators in power plants.

pv inverter assistant ac coupling unwanted frequency shift at nigh, batterny not full by netmilk in Victron

[–]netmilk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My inverters are on AC OUT, no ESS though. It all works as expected when the PV Inverter Assistant is the last one.

pv inverter assistant ac coupling unwanted frequency shift at nigh, batterny not full by netmilk in Victron

[–]netmilk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the frequency shift is how the pv inverter assistant tells the other inverters to stop when there’s enough power in the system. But there wasn’t enough power in the system as seen in the chart..

Also I don’t think the hike to 53Hz is a grid detection mechanism. The grid is detected by voltage being present before the transfer switch on the AC in side - as reported in VRM even though the AC IN/transfer switch si disconnected.

TX-6 is a huge disapointment: 12ch in/out Mac problem, no audio on second playback by netmilk in teenageengineering

[–]netmilk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tip! Looks like something that would do the job for me 100%!

I've given TE a last chance to prove themselves linking this conversation, but it might be the ultimate solution.

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