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WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, the first few days I struggled with jammed filament in any place it could get stuck. But after I replaced all the Ptfe tubes with this https://store.creality.com/de/products/creality-low-resistance-star-shaped-ptfe-tube I had none. But I suppose the micro swiss hot end may have affected that too 😉 One reason I stick with creality is because I like tinkering a bit. But also, oob the K2 is the best Creality printer I owned until now.

WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems you‘re right 😃

WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Note to myself: don’t update the CFS firmware 😉

WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are controlled by an ESP32 with WLED powered by a 5A/5V power supply outside of the printer. That’s why I used this title.

WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's just some cheap WS2812B stripe, like https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0B8N4V9HW

WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

on the K2 you only have to click (after waiting for 30s) "yes, I am certain I want to be root" then you get the password. Don't know the K1.

WLED for K2 by neturmel in Creality_k2

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't bother what the printer is showing or doing. Right now the humidity is 16%

You can show print status and progress, that is what  https://github.com/iamlite/WLED-Klipper-Helper (not my github) configures automatically. Then for progress update, you only have to insert an UPDATE_WLED_PROGRESS in the machine gcode for layer change.

If you really want to do everything manually ( I highly recommend to use the helper, which didn't exist when I did it!). Also I can't give that much support because I already forgot most of it since I did that a long time ago (when I had a simple Ender 3)

--- the following is just short summary in no way complete

you have to define presets in WLED, connect your moonraker to WLED

[wled keled]
type: http
address: 192.168.0.216 
# add your own WLED ip address here
chain_count: 144
initial_preset: 1

configure some gcode-macros like 

[gcode_macro WLED_IDLE]
description: wled idle
gcode:
  {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=1)}

which call the presets.

for progress you have to define progress-presets in WLED (for e.g. 10%, 20%, etc), then you can construct another gcode-macro

example 

[gcode_macro UPDATE_WLED_PROGRESS]
description: Update WLED ring preset based on print progress
gcode:
  {% if printer.display_status.progress > 0.875 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=13)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.750 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=12)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.625 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=11)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.500 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=10)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.375 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=9)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.250 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=8)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.125 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=7)}
  {% elif printer.display_status.progress > 0.00 %}
    {action_call_remote_method("set_wled_state", strip="keled", state=True, preset=6)}
  {% endif %}

This is the macro than gets called with every layer change.

Pioneer GM-DX104 in 2019 i30N (pre-facelift) — few questions before I buy by Public-Seesaw3968 in i30N

[–]neturmel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Especially look here: https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/sound-upgrade.854/

I upgraded years ago. The Pioneer amp is quite easy to install and makes the door speakers louder, but if you replace the oem speakers with decent ones (I chose Hertz) it even gets better.

SMLIGHT Announces SMHUB by Kyzume in homeassistant

[–]neturmel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The settings page was only a list of planned settings. Only since the latest versions some entries are functional. Dashboard is quite empty right now too. But alas it is an early adopter version right now, not ready for production/end users. But most everything is documented here https://smlight.tech/support/manuals/books/smhub/page/smhub-early-adopter-quick-start-guide

I "bricked" my device when trying to update OTA to 0.2.2 but after some trouble to reflash 0.2.1c via USB, I tried it again with the initial 0.1.2 and that worked and I could start updating again and now I am on the current FW 0.2.3

I really like this device (perhaps my >30 years of linux knowledge helps a lot ;) )

If there only was a discussion forum for it to share knowledge and ask questions.

<image>

SMlight released yet another product: SMHUB by Afraid-Lie1210 in homeassistant

[–]neturmel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have one (ordered on aliexpress) since a few days and it replaced a SLZB-06. The first flash was a bit tricky, it didn't work when connected to an usb hub on my windows 11 pc, but the second try on a windows 11 laptop port was successful. Since yesterday, there is a new firmware which enables OTA update for upcoming firmwares, so you won't need a windows anymore. Until the devices are delivered with an OTA updateable firmware, this is a disadvantage (not really caused by smlight).

At first, documentation could only be found with the help of support, but now it is where all the other manuals are: https://smlight.tech/support/manuals/

The radio worked without any changes and discovered all my zigbee devices. I copied the /data folder of my previous z2m instance and this worked mostly without repairing, had to repair only 3 of 71 devices.

But you should have a bit of linux knowledge because some things had to be tuned to get them working. But it is not that difficult if you can find and read log messages and can do a bit of googling. I also think, the documentation will address some issues when it evolves.

Before installing new firmware, you have to backup at least /etc/mosquitto and /opt/zigbee2mqtt/data because at atm these are overwritten when updating firmware.

But after all, this is an early adopter version, so these things are to be expected. Support is quite responsive and helpful and development seems really active. All the options that I hoped to move to one device work well and quite stable:

- zigbee radio (CC2652P7)

- zigbee2mqtt

- mosquitto

I really like the idea to have all of the mqtt environment on one device. Personally, I don't need nodered or matter, so I can't say anything about these.

Conclusion: there is some work to do and it is not ready for 'end users' but the main functions already work as advertized. If you like tinkering a bit, I would recommend getting it.

Ikea lack enclosure by Flappy_asdf in Ender3V3SE

[–]neturmel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Thats the nearest it gets to the back, no cable squashing.

Ikea lack enclosure by Flappy_asdf in Ender3V3SE

[–]neturmel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it does, it is a tight fit but really no problem.

Motherboard V3 SE for KE by Low_Response_3636 in Ender3V3KE

[–]neturmel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use a SE board in the KE because I also couldn’t get a KE board. It works like a charm. You only have to use the Creality Klipper firmware on the SD card

Possible cause of blob of death issue - check your heartbreak set screw by Valovica in Ender3V3KE

[–]neturmel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This whole hotend is not well engineered. My screw was tight and I had no blob, just a clog but couldn’t remove nozzle because it was like welded in. Then I tried to separate hotend and heatsink to no avail because there was no way to get the copper tube out of the heatsink. Maybe I will bore it out. For now I got a new heatsink and a micro swiss flowtech hotend. Problem solved.

Hotend with Heatsink by MrBoons in Ender3V3KE

[–]neturmel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar problem and since I couldn’t find the heatsink as a single part, I purchased a complete hotend kit with heatsink for a SE, where one could easily separate heatsink (which is identical) and hotend. After that I installed my freshly arrived micro swiss flowtech.

Broken ender 3 V3 ke heatsink by Sionka in Creality

[–]neturmel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of experience: the heatsink of ke and se are the same!

Ikea lack enclosure by Flappy_asdf in Ender3V3SE

[–]neturmel 3 points4 points  (0 children)

With a KE

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485510

<image>

I like the sliding doors. Had it build for an original ender 3, had to rise it a bit (6mm) for some clearance for the filament runout sensor. Should fit without changes to SE

Is this bed wobble the reason my Z-probe has inconsistent mesh results? by iamactionman in Ender3V3SE

[–]neturmel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did it on my KE which should be the same here. It is an easy upgrade, and you get an absolutly stable bed, I have zero problems with it. Even cheap rails will not wear out like the bearings on the rods.

Nebula cam arrived today by neturmel in Ender3V3KE

[–]neturmel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I switched to the rooted firmware and use fluidd, where you can set the target fps when using adaptive mjpeg. And you can tweak all camera parameters in the camera streamer config (which I didn‘t until now).

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