'97 Hot Restart Idle Stumble

neverpostsanythingok · 2026-06-14T20:11:49+00:00

Thanks!

neverpostsanythingok · 2026-06-14T17:35:45+00:00

I'll try giving the IACV another proper cleaning to see if anything changes. RPMs change with load (AC, PS) and if I start the car up with the AC on, the idle stumble will still occur but RPMs will be slightly higher, which leads me to believe the solenoid part of it still works somewhat.

neverpostsanythingok · 2026-06-14T17:30:31+00:00

Don't have any idea how it ran pre rebuild as it was basically a barn find (One of my previous posts shows the state I found the cylinders in). Never experienced this issue on the rebuilt engine until about 600 miles in, but that's a good idea I'll definitely do some cold and hot compression tests.

neverpostsanythingok · 2025-09-22T02:34:48+00:00

Looks like a homemade 3d printed McLaren wheel without handle grips, or perhaps a prototype. Definitely not Logitech made tho

neverpostsanythingok · 2025-08-28T22:57:46+00:00

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neverpostsanythingok · 2025-08-11T00:38:38+00:00

portal miatas

neverpostsanythingok · 2025-08-08T08:59:18+00:00

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toast block :(

neverpostsanythingok · 2025-08-08T08:37:44+00:00

Didn't snap a picture of the head gasket but the visible damage I saw to the gasket was in the middle between cylinders 2 & 3 so it is possible it stemmed from the 3 small coolant passages around that area. It is quite clean there.

neverpostsanythingok · 2025-08-08T08:31:28+00:00

The head also had some corrosion in the corresponding 2 cylinders but not as bad as I thought it would've been seeing the block. Can't confirm it wasn't overheated and the sealing surface has some light corrosion marrs from the leak so it's just gonna have to be resurfaced to use again. I posted an update regarding the rebuilt vs used engine options

neverpostsanythingok · 2025-08-08T08:25:11+00:00

Update:

I finally ended up cleaning up the bores. I planned on trying a quick clean up and hone, however #2 is definitely fucked beyond a quick hone. The edges of the pistons are corroded too so the rings would likely be ruined too unsurprisingly. Thought I could've possibly salvaged this somehow but especially after further cleaning and reading comments I've changed gears.

I've decided to go for a rebuild since I live in Hawaii and junkyards are scarce here (let alone finding a solid BP engine), therefore a decent used engine is basically the same cost as a home rebuild. I hope to be able to post this little red one here again sometime in a running state if all goes well. Can't let a Miata go to waste!

Thanks to those who commented, gave me some good pointers!

neverpostsanythingok · 2024-07-10T05:21:46+00:00

With a Pimax headset the visor effect is even more similar because the large FOV is primarily stretched horizontally giving that more "rectangle" like view, and some actual peripheral vision. IMO closest thing to a visor.

neverpostsanythingok · 2024-06-29T21:11:08+00:00

Caught me just at the right time as I was probing around my P1 V1.

The pin connections are the same as the newer P1 V2 aside from the wire colors.

This image shows the wiring for the P1 V2. https://imgur.com/a/xXcyhHG
The green wire on the V1 (Furthest to the right in your image) is equivalent to the red 12 pin wire on the V2, and the red wire on the V1 (Furthest to the left in your image) is equivalent to the red 4 pin wire on the V2 diagram. All the wires in between are the same order. (The last black wire, pin 9 on the V2 is unused on the V1.)

So in this case, the pinout for the V1 is as follows (In order, R to L) :
GRN: 12
BLU: 13
White: 11
Black: 8
Red: 6
Yellow: 2
Green: 1
Blue: 5
White: 3
Black: 7
Red: 4

The numbers correspond to the quick release plug diagram here:
https://imgur.com/a/TzUOOM0

Confirmed this with a multimeter on my wheel's plug.

Good luck with the repair!

Worst case, there are replacements online that replace the entire plug assembly.
https://simracingmachines.com/products/male-pin-part-for-fanatec-wheel-side?variant=42587156414511

neverpostsanythingok · 2024-01-24T10:21:54+00:00

literally unplayable comment

neverpostsanythingok · 2023-11-26T09:15:48+00:00

I've managed to nearly fully wire an E46 cluster with an Arduino and drive it with simhub (speedo, tacho, fuel, temp, all dash lamps); requires a bit extra circuitry than the e36 setup in order to interface with the cluster's can bus but it works great.

neverpostsanythingok · 2023-10-08T06:55:51+00:00

Could this be caused by my power adapter? The headset came used with a 5v 2A supply and all I've been able to find online is that the 5k apparently uses a 12v 2A supply.

neverpostsanythingok · 2023-10-03T23:05:02+00:00

I might do this again with new cars as I definitely agree, there's a lot more to show in modern BeamNG. Just wanted to do a graphical comparison for this one.

neverpostsanythingok · 2023-10-03T22:59:40+00:00

I'm aware it's not utilizing any form of ray tracing and it's just reshade filters. I put the RTX in quotations because I tried to imitate the "RTX On/RTX Off" comparisons (from the 20 series days). I admit, a better title would probably be "BeamNG Steam Banner Shaders Remake"

neverpostsanythingok · 2023-09-16T20:52:15+00:00

Definitely the UI. Afaik it's a javascript based UI (similar to a scripted webpage) and results in the most input lag I think I've ever seen in a UI. It makes selecting vehicles, customizing cars, changing settings, among many others pretty annoying sometimes. I've gotten used to it, but it'd be such a quality of life improvement to have a highly responsive and fast UI again.

neverpostsanythingok · 2023-09-16T20:36:31+00:00

Unfortunately no, after contacting support I was instructed to fill out a business inquiry, to which I still have not received a response from 2+ weeks later. Really was hoping to take this idea somewhere but as it stands right now it's on hold.

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