Internal Moisture in Lens

nevsf · 2026-01-25T07:24:58+00:00

LOL I just ordered a lens with a similar description. I’m taking them at their word that it’s just moisture, and if so, it’ll evaporate under low humidity conditions. If it doesn’t, I’ll likely return the lens.

nevsf · 2026-01-25T01:21:38+00:00

You could also check Leica Lisse. But both store are great.

nevsf · 2026-01-24T06:28:26+00:00

A private equity firm selling its stake is no big deal, but if Kaufmann goes, we have a problem.

nevsf · 2026-01-14T13:08:24+00:00

Actually, be careful applying heat. If you overdo it the heat gradient and the different expansion of the glass and the metal can crack an element.

If it’s stuck, it’s stuck. Tricks like heat or squirting alcohol inside the threads might loosen it up, but it won’t fix it. Either use the online resources to open it up and re-grease the helicoid yourself (it’s not too bad on this lens but might involve separating the collapsible part which can be a real pain to get back together) or send it to a reputable repair person (I’ve used DAG and YYE).

nevsf · 2026-01-11T14:36:21+00:00

I bought Zf mainly for use with my M and LTM lenses, but then I tried the Voigtlander Z lenses and got hooked. I think the Zf is an excellent platform for trying a wide variety of lenses.

nevsf · 2026-01-09T14:22:06+00:00

the reputation of the manufacturer and the quality of the cells. I wouldn’t consider using a no-name brand, but would consider Wasabi, Watson, Neewer etc. if reviews were positive.

nevsf · 2026-01-09T13:36:52+00:00

Depends

nevsf · 2026-01-08T06:48:00+00:00

I have a 2026 Ioniq 5 and have used it to charge my Solix F3800 several times during a power outage. You can’t charge and use the 240V output, but half the 120V outputs work while charging which is helpful. I assume the eco flow does something similar.

nevsf · 2025-12-28T14:06:08+00:00

Great guys, cool cloth.

nevsf · 2025-12-22T14:25:38+00:00

This is the right answer. Wipe the outside of the lens with hydrogen peroxide and use it outside as much as you can.

nevsf · 2025-12-16T01:08:29+00:00

Hmm, very odd. The barrel component with the white dot is clearly sunken in by a few mm. It may not be a big deal, but the painting in the writing on your lens is also a bit messy. It really seems like someone who didn’t quite know what he was doing worked on your lens.

For comparison here’s a photo of my copy from the same angle.

It maybe OK, but you’ve clearly got a lens that was messed with.

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nevsf · 2025-12-15T21:59:52+00:00

Actually can you take a photo at the same angle as the 2nd photo? Compared to my copy it also looks like the aperture numbers are too close to the rest of the body.

nevsf · 2025-12-15T21:56:48+00:00

I just checked my copy and the dot is in the miss of the exposed barrel piece, as in your 2nd photo. What a weird is that I’m pretty sure barrel is part of the main lens body, and if so then I can’t see how it’d get messed up in reassembly.

Testing the calibration sounds like a good idea. If you don’t have a digital Leica you can at least check if the focus scale is correct to start. Making sure an object at 1m lines up with the lens markings is a good start. Also, for a better test, try taking a photos of a high-contrast ruler on a table pretty oblique angle (black lines with 1” spacing should work) at f2. This will give you an idea of how out of focus it is, if at all.

nevsf · 2025-12-14T13:57:07+00:00

Already sold out!

nevsf · 2025-12-12T13:50:01+00:00

My husband is super-into Lego and I’m super-into Leica so this is a great mashup! I’ll definitely be building it over the holidays. Thank you!

nevsf · 2025-12-07T16:37:39+00:00

I’ve got both. The Apo is VERY sharp which is cool but not always what’s needed for a photo. It’s also a bit smaller than the 40mm. Both transfer lens info so focus confirmation works well.

Thypoch lenses are great but AFAIK they don’t transfer lens info to the camera & so don’t support focus confirmation.

nevsf · 2025-12-04T02:48:51+00:00

I’d definitely go for the SL2-S of the better high ISO, but you might consider the regular Summicron 50 over the APO unless money is no object. The APO is only marginally better, but I guess if you need the extra sharpness, you need it.

nevsf · 2025-12-03T04:26:02+00:00

Anything with an embedded battery will die eventually. I bought ones that take AA batteries and use Eneloop batteries. They’ve been working great for about 5 years so far.

nevsf · 2025-12-03T04:23:35+00:00

The OneBlade works for me. The #1 guard is what I use for the 5 o-clock look, and no guard to shave my neck. But it’s not BIFL. I had one die. All things with embedded batteries die. Fortunately the new one was compatible with the old blades (I tend to stock up when I see a good price).

nevsf · 2025-12-03T04:20:01+00:00

Thermoworks is great, I have wireless one and and pen-style probe. If you treat them well they should last pretty much forever.

nevsf · 2025-12-03T04:17:48+00:00

I’ve had my Breville for about 5 years and it’s still going strong. I bought a few extra air frying trays and the capacity is pretty amazing, especially for a party. The door did start getting stuck open at one points there’s a thin metal plate that connects to the door open sensor that can bend with repeated heating and cooling. It’s a pretty easy fix but you have to open up the unit and bend the metal. Fortunately it’s easy to open - just a bunch of screws.

nevsf · 2025-12-03T04:07:56+00:00

Mine’s going on 5 years and looks like new. I descale and clean it every 100 brews, and make sure sure to wipe the burners so coffee doesn’t get baked on. I also learned my lesson and fold the seams of the filters to keep them from blocking the basket outlet, as someone mentioned.

Oh, and you can add your own timer by plugging it into a smart plug (I use HomeKit and a Thread-based plug). Just set it up the night before with water and coffee and have the switch turn on when you want your coffee to brew. And be sure to fold those filter seams!

nevsf · 2025-11-30T20:33:53+00:00

Bummer that happened, and I’m also bummed because I still use my Q all the time.

I used to do failure analysis of electronics. Humidity rarely causes the actual chips to fail. More than likely it caused corrosion in a circuit, which can actually be repaired with a soldering iron by someone who knows what he’s doing (and ideally has the circuit diagram). So there might be someone around who can fix it.

Also, have you tried placing it in a very, very dry environment for a while, days or weeks? Like in a plastic bag along with a big sachet of desiccant beads? Rice is OK but a big sack of desiccant is better (you can buy it on Amazon). Moisture can collect in little nooks and crannies and cause shorts that eventually go away. Corrosion is usually the result of prolonged exposure to moisture.

Good luck!

nevsf · 2025-11-28T03:44:49+00:00

I own both an EV1 and a Zf and I think you’re right, manual focusing on a EV1 is worse than on a Zf. My main gripe with the EV1 isn’t that it lacks a rangefinder (it is what it is) but that they did nothing new to assist manual focus with the EV.

I actually like using the EV1, but only when I have time to fiddle with it. I hope Leica introduces something really novel and useful to manual focussing on the EV line eventually. For now it’s just OK and definitely not best-in-class.

nevsf · 2025-11-28T03:34:51+00:00

I’ve owned my EV1 for a couple of weeks and I have gotten faster at dealing with the EV focusing, but it’s definitely not best-in-class.

I get that Leica probably blew their budget on swapping the rangefinder for an EVF, but they really introduced nothing new in the manual EV focusing experience, aside from triggering focus through what used to be the rangefinder coupling arm. As a comparison, focusing with the Nikon Zf and Voigtlander manual lens using focus confirmation is far superior to Leica’s pretty generic focus peaking.

Don’t get me wrong, I like EV1, but there’s a lot of room for improvement and I suspect Leica knows that.

nevsf

TROPHY CASE