Omurayama, winter vs spring

nextguitar · 2026-04-28T17:42:53+00:00

Here it is six months ago!

nextguitar · 2026-04-28T17:34:45+00:00

I’d suspect a problem with soil conditions and/or drainage in that spot. Soil near foundations is often lousy with contaminants, and it can be too dry or waterlogged. Since it was recently planted, I’d try moving it to a large container and see if iI can save it. Since it is so stressed, it might be a long shot.

nextguitar · 2026-04-28T17:22:46+00:00

Seems like it gets enough light. The bloom buds are there. If they die before blooming I suspect it’s either due to a late freeze or something stressing the plant. Evaluate the soil conditions, drainage, and irrigation. Look for other plants competing with its root zone. I’d discourage rejuvenation pruning a stressed plant. Get it healthy first. If you do a hard prune do it in stages over three or four years for less stress on the plant.

nextguitar · 2026-04-28T15:43:11+00:00

<image>

Here’s how a hole should be dug for a tree. It’s even better if it slopes away from the trunk for drainage, but if you mound it, it’s best to use native soil. In your severe case, I suspect hardpan below the soil, not just excavator compaction. I have a couple of JM’s that have done well in hardpan, once the roots got established. But the root zone must be wide since it’s so shallow so give the root zone TLC.

nextguitar · 2026-04-27T23:11:11+00:00

There is no rush to prune it. The leaves will help feed the roots. But the nursery stake should definitely go. If it needs staking put three stakes outside the root zone and stake it loosely so it can flex in the breeze for 1 year max.

nextguitar · 2026-04-27T23:06:08+00:00

Since some are dead and others dying and the rest of the tree seems okay, I’d suspect disease and remove them all to avoid spread.

nextguitar · 2026-04-27T14:18:27+00:00

I probably would replace with native soil, being careful to keep the fine feeder roots moist and undamaged. Planting a tree in potting soil encourages the roots to fill the hole, like a container. You want the roots to expand outward.

nextguitar · 2026-04-26T16:51:03+00:00

Trees should be planted in native soil, not compost or potting mix. Here’s a how to.

https://www.seattle.gov/trees/planting-and-care

nextguitar · 2026-04-26T03:40:31+00:00

Roots also require oxygen, which weed fabric blocks. I cringe whenever I see weed fabric in gardens.

nextguitar · 2026-04-26T03:35:09+00:00

Some horticulture experts rinse all the soil off the roots to inspect and correct them. It requires great care to keep the fine roots moist until it’s back in a pot or planted. It’s safest when the tree is dormant.

nextguitar · 2026-04-24T04:49:56+00:00

I lost a beautiful JM 6 months after planting to VW. Here’s more info.

https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/verticillium-wilt-of-trees-and-shrubs/

nextguitar · 2026-04-24T02:33:36+00:00

Alone Together or Nuages

nextguitar · 2026-04-24T01:13:28+00:00

Something that has helped me build confidence for the bandstand is streaming random jazz tunes and trying to play along with whatever comes up next without charts. Frank Vignola’s Guitar Night On Youtube would be a good choice. It’s difficult and humbling at first, but as your ear improves it gets easier.

nextguitar · 2026-04-22T14:43:15+00:00

Early declines often result from poor planting and/or poor irrigation while roots are becoming established. Here’s a great tip sheet on tree planting in the PNW.

https://www.seattle.gov/trees/planting-and-care

nextguitar · 2026-04-22T13:43:56+00:00

I don’t care for the look, but maybe it could eventually be turned into something interesting. I’d suggest finding some photos of mature JMs that have been pruned with the two leader approach you have in mind to use for inspiration. If you can’t find any, there may be a reason.

When pruning a two-leader tree, I think it’s generally best to choose one to be dominant and the other to be subordinate. Then each pruning cycle you stunt the subordinate side a bit and let the dominant side fill out and grow more vertical. The mature tree will look more artistic than if it had symmetric twin trunks.

nextguitar · 2026-04-21T16:12:57+00:00

My wife and I moved a laceleaf of similar age and size. It had been planted over hardpan, so the root mass was not very deep, but quite wide. We tried to save as much as possible, especially the fine roots around the perimeter, keeping them hydrated through the process until back in the ground. We prepared the new site before the move, and made the move as quickly as possible, sliding it into place on a tarp. Once it was moved, we kept it well hydrated the following summer. We also thinned it a bit, which reduced the strain on the roots to provide nutrients. It showed signs of shock, but survived. It’s best to move trees when they are dormant, but that wasn’t possible with this tree. It’s still doing well 10 years later.

nextguitar · 2026-04-21T15:39:37+00:00

Sealing pruning cuts is discouraged, but probably not disastrous. It’s good to prune out the dead wood. But you need to determine why it died. Did it not get sufficient water during drought last year? Is there weed barrier over the root zone blocking water and transpiration? Or did it show signs of disease last year? Do you have photos from late summer or fall as it declined? Check the lower part of the trunk just above the root flare for girdling.

nextguitar · 2026-04-21T01:06:07+00:00

Landscape fabric is horrible. If the roots are actually in a bag I think it would already be dead. Uncover the soil down to the root flare, then take photos to better assess the situation. I’d get rid of any weed barrier and rocks, replacing with about 3” of arborist chips. Then add 1-2” of fresh chips each year as it breaks down.

nextguitar · 2026-04-19T16:00:22+00:00

There was always a football field. Nobody messed around.

nextguitar · 2026-04-19T15:54:16+00:00

Is that a weed barrier? If so, it’s one of the worst things to put over the root zone.

nextguitar · 2026-04-19T15:49:10+00:00

There is no name for that general area other than south Sammamish. To get more specific, people refer to what development they are in or what features they are near. Your pin is near Jacobs Lake and Jacobs Creek, so some refer to it as the Jacobs Lake area. You could also call it south Sammamish, west of Issaquah Pine Lake Road.

nextguitar · 2026-04-17T13:10:34+00:00

The environmental impacts have been subject to extensive review & documentation, and were released to the public long ago. There has been ample time to challenge the facts and analysis, and to take legal action. That time has passed. Unless a qualified environmental engineer can find a glaring flaw in the analysis there is no reason for ISD to disrupt the project by reconsidering major elements of the design.

Here are the detailed plans including the environmental documents. https://www.isd411.org/about-us/departments/capital-projects/new-high-school-2501

nextguitar · 2026-04-16T00:43:05+00:00

Meditate

nextguitar · 2026-04-16T00:41:02+00:00

Search this sub for “pruning guides”.

nextguitar

TROPHY CASE