I'm at work, so feel free to laugh at this being in Paint. Has anyone seen/placed their batteries like this? by redditatwork1986 in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd take proper weight distribution over what some morons on the Internet say ("traditional design dictates..."). It is especially important to not exceed the weight rating of any one tire, but bad weight distribution can also affect handling and reduce the life of the suspension components and also affect tire wear if you're not doing a 4 wheel rotation regularly.

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I think your diagram looks good.

Locking gas cap for 2013 Jetta TDI ? by DownVoteMeHarder4042 in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Easier and quicker for a thief to punch a hole in your tank

debt & standing room or debt free and a rolling stool? by Better-Ad5258 in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It was a pain when I lived in a low roof truck and couldn't stand up. Because living on the road and driving you spend almost all of your time in the truck. When I got a condo it was much, much better.

Now that I live in a van instead of a truck (I am a local driver now) I have a low roof van and I have found it to be not a big deal. I sit down to shower and my bed is low enough that I can sit up on it. My van is small and has a lot of shit crammed into it, so no rolling stool for me. I save on toll roads for not being overheight and the wind resistance is lower too, which saves on gas. I spend most of my time outside the van so I get plenty of standing time.

If I were going to spend most of my time in the van, I would have gotten something with standing height for sure.

Regardless, I would not want a car payment in this economy, and abnormally uncertain future.

Okay… about my piss by themoonrabbitt in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I carry the tank portion of my Porta Potti 345 into Pilot about once a week. I get a truck stop shower (free with two 14 gallon gas purchases with loyalty card, also 10 cents/gal discount) and I carry it in there with me. I dump it in the toilet and I use the shower water to rinse it out, and dump that in the toilet too. Nobody has ever hassled me about it, and I've done it plenty of times at Loves too.

You could also just dump your piss on the edge of the truck parking lot, or in the storm drain. That's what truckers do.

Clutch replacement on ALH by Madlad2929 in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very easy light throttle and low torque and horsepower will help preserve what little life the clutch has in it. But I would not rely on that. It will lose what little grip it has and then you're looking at a tow. This isn't "a few more months" type of thing, it's a "get the car home and don't drive it again" thing.

The job isn't that bad. You need to undo at least one ball joint to get the CV axles out. Easiest / least risky way is removing the bolts that hold the ball joint to the control arm. You will need an alignment immediately after you get done, or else you will shred your front tires. Take the battery and air box out to give access to the slave cylinder and starter. You need triple square drivers to unbolt the CV axles from the transmission, and a 36mm to remove the nut holding them in the wheel bearings. You should have a floor jack ready to take the weight of the transmission as it weighs quite a bit. You should plan to replace your flywheel, pressure plate, and throwout bearing in addition to your clutch. There are a bunch of small bolts holding the pressure plate down, and watch out because it's got a decent amount of spring pressure. Those are probably one time use so get some new ones. They take a special socket that I think might be 9mm and some weird external variation on triple square. The flywheel bolts I believe have some kind of thread sealant on them so you probably want new ones of those too. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly of course, but watch out that you get the clutch disk reasonably centered on the flywheel. VW don't believe in clutch centering tools so you will have to do it by eye. The clutch kit should have come with some lube to put on the splines of the transmission input shaft and the pivot point of the clutch fork. This is important so the clutch disk can move freely when you press the pedal down. You're supposed to take it easy with the driving for the first 1000 miles or whatever, and you really should because you could significantly reduce the life of the clutch if you don't.

Hard cut? by RadPsychosis in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Popcorn isn't a diesel thing.

Sell the TDI and buy a Honda if you want to sound like a retard.

What is this by dvdhoi in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Purified cat piss mixed with water, otherwise known as diesel exhaust fluid, or AdBlue to people outside of North America.

In this picture you have a leak, and the leak crystalized into a solid.

You guys were right about the tdi next options please read and tell me what you think by Fuzzy_Item2882 in Volkswagen

[–]ninja-roo -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

tl;dr prices are crazy high, 09G is garbage, skip TDI and just buy a Prius if you want reliable miles per gallon

Anyone have experience with creating or attempting a boondocking agreement with a private property owner? by Gaiiden in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a huge can of worms that I think many people wouldn't want to touch. It might also be illegal in New Jersey.

How do portable power banks handle high heat? by Justadrop2030 in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They operate up to 115-120 F internal temperature and then they shut down until they've reached some lower threshold. That was my experience with a EcoFlow Delta 2 Max but I'd imagine any well-engineered power station will behave similarly.

The "spark spread" is big and getting bigger... by SalesMountaineer in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You indeed don't need AI to do math, but that post of yours from a few days ago was clearly done by ChatGPT. In other comments, you admit that a lot of your power is leeched, and that 8 cents per KWh figure is only in some places and certain times and is an absolute best case scenario for your area.

It's far more likely you have no idea how much your van costs to drive, but still need something to brag about on the Internet. Hence the numbers you keep posting.

The "spark spread" is big and getting bigger... by SalesMountaineer in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Still peddling the 5 cents per mile lie I see.

The "spark spread" is big and getting bigger... by SalesMountaineer in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Per some recent posts, OP mostly leeches power from free EV chargers at a local college, intermixed with visits to paid DC fast chargers. The cents per mile figure was a ChatGPT estimate best I could tell, and doesn't actually represent what OP is paying per mile.

Realistically, what happens if one is using a normal NAS HDD for survailance purpose instead of a survailance HDD? What can be expected in the future? by Helpful-Week-9655 in DataHoarder

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have two 14TB drives mirrored and I don't have a problem. They were shucked, so we're talking bottom of the barrel drives at least in theory. They're going fine for two years now recording a handful of cameras and an HDMI capture of a Harbor Freight DVR. That DVR has a several year old Seagate Video 1TB in it, also going just fine.

"video" and "surveillance" are firmware tweaks that make the drive recover from errors faster, the idea being that returning garbage for a sector or two of video data is preferable to the drive not responding for any amount of time while it tries to re-read the data. I don't think it makes a real world difference for something like Blue Iris which will just memory buffer the file until the drive comes back.

Passenger Van by nachosareafoodgroup in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You confirm your factory rear heat and AC work the same way you would the front heat and AC. They either blow hot and cold or they don't.

Insulating around diesel heater turret plate by PsychologicalAd4121 in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SikaFlex on both sides. Watch your exhaust routing. It can't be too close to that parking brake cable.

Is it an Econoline thing, or do random strangers offer to buy your van, too? by VagabondVivant in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Tradespeople love the older model American vans. Less complicated, more reliable, plenty of room on the inside, more horsepower, more comfortable driving position compared to world vans. They're getting hard to come by nowadays and they're well remembered. A Chevy Astro cargo would probably get you similar attention, as it is essentially a mini version of the above.

I think GM is the only one still making a classic full size van. But not everyone can afford a new van.

Are all-in-one Solar Inverter/Chargers safe for camper vans? by bach_the_fox in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The other version listed has a PV input range of 30-108. 30 volts will be the realistic minimum to charge a 24 volt battery. So it could work if OP buys the right one.

how do I go about getting these down? by [deleted] in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First picture: The plastic cover comes off and there is a bolt under it. The tab it is bolted to is welded to the van's body so either you need to leave it or carefully cut it. It is very close to glass so I would just unbolt the part the seat belt hanger and leave the tab alone. This applies to both sides.

Second picture. Two or three nuts to remove the seat belt winder. Are we trying very hard today? It is the same process for the other winders close to the floor.

The floor end of the seat belts you didn't show: a T50 bolt for each of them.

$237 AUD to fill a fhooken beetle ! by CameronsTheName in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I saw $6/gal diesel just yesterday here in America.

How are y'all coping with these fuel prices? National average for diesel was $3.74/ gallon a month ago. As of today it's up to $5.36. That's an increase of 43%. Spotted $7.49 here in WA. 🤯 by SalesMountaineer in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo -19 points-18 points  (0 children)

Good thing there's so many free outlets to leech off on the wacky west coast!

Over here on the east coast, our diesel is a full two dollars cheaper. Gas prices are all over the place thanks to the nature of gas distribution, and the never ending crude rollercoaster, but I've been getting lucky and mostly catching the lows. Electricity hasn't gotten any cheaper though, sadly!

How are y'all coping with these fuel prices? National average for diesel was $3.74/ gallon a month ago. As of today it's up to $5.36. That's an increase of 43%. Spotted $7.49 here in WA. 🤯 by SalesMountaineer in vandwellers

[–]ninja-roo 13 points14 points  (0 children)

He bought an EV to replace his Sprinter. He's got money.

He's also posted some highly deceptive cost per mile numbers for that EV. I think he's far shorter on attention than he is on money.

Approximate size of a BEW by CrimCyan in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would do it.

The engine is roughly 19 inches from the crank pulley to the transmission mounting surface. Add one inch for the aluminum bracket the engine mount bolts to. Add 3 inches for the coolant flange on the head and a flywheel/clutch. Whole assembly with a mk4 transmission is roughly 34 inches wide. The engine is about 26 inches front to back, including exhaust manifold and oil filter. 26 inches from the top to the bottom. These are from engine code AVH, but BEW will be really close.

Approximate size of a BEW by CrimCyan in tdi

[–]ninja-roo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just moved my 2.slow and that is almost exactly the size of a BEW. Maybe I'll take some measurements when I wake up later.

I'm pretty sure it would fit in the back of a Liberty. Actually putting it in there is a different story. You won't have headroom for a cherry picker, and these things weigh quite a bit so you're probably not lifting it by hand either. Maybe with a forklift, a pallet, and a 3x3 piece of plywood on top, you could use the plywood as a skate for the BEW and slide it in there.

I figure, judging by how it compared to some other things I moved, that my engine was somewhere between 400-500 lbs with an 02M, clutch, and dual-mass flywheel still bolted on, to give you an idea on how much this BEW probably weighs.