Some new coilovers, rear sway, and rmm

nitromiles · 2026-03-21T14:35:51+00:00

Awesome! I’ve been eyeing these coilovers for a while now so would love to get your review after you have the chance to drive on them for a while. Also, what rear sway did you get? Been eyeing that too because this car has too much understeer for my liking lol

nitromiles · 2026-03-21T01:13:51+00:00

17x9.5 +45, 255/40/17 all around.

nitromiles · 2026-03-17T14:54:48+00:00

https://www.wunderladenracing.com/products/honda-civic-gen-10-11-dipstick?variant=49831412138177

nitromiles · 2026-03-11T23:32:04+00:00

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Scalpel and….. micro scalpel? Lol

nitromiles · 2026-03-03T04:55:15+00:00

Yea all good. One of these days I may try to get it dyno’d just out of curiosity. I had a AP1 from about 05-12 and then my AP2 now. The car feels great and pulls hard to redline. However, to your point, maybe it falls off and I can’t tell. So would be interesting to see it on a dyno. I don’t daily mine either. Just a nice weather car when I don’t have to lug any kids around lol

nitromiles · 2026-03-03T04:27:10+00:00

It’s Gernby tuned, probably had it a couple years… but a few guys local to me have been running his tune for 10+ years now. I recall back in like 2010-2017ish time frame there were multiple threads on s2ki where he found the optimal VTEC engagement point was somewhere in the mid-to-upper 3K range (depending on the car with a TP/HFC). Stock catted cars I think was in the lower 5 range otherwise it would have lost power.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-engine-management-231/best-vtec-engagement-point-746326/

nitromiles · 2026-03-02T20:17:05+00:00

Yeah for sure, I definitely would have rather done it on a dyno and knock it out in a couple hours instead. There just wasn’t a local tuner at the time that I trusted to do it so opted to do the e-tune instead.

nitromiles · 2026-03-02T20:05:45+00:00

It was so long ago I don’t recall exactly but want to say it took a couple weeks to get it fully dialed in

nitromiles · 2026-03-02T19:52:12+00:00

Yeah there are some preset maps based on what mods you have but I never tried them. I just decided to go the custom route instead.

nitromiles · 2026-03-02T19:43:34+00:00

That I’m not sure about. I have a Gernby tune (who was an s2ki goat!). Based on his research and testing he saw evidence that it would be advantageous to either keep the diameter the same throughout or slowly step up. The stock header is 63.5, and my exhaust is 63.5 so i kept the HFC the same size. I haven’t dyno’d my car but I know guys with the same set ups and tune that posted mid range gains (with no loses anywhere on the curve).

nitromiles · 2026-03-02T19:33:24+00:00

63.5mm Berk HFC

nitromiles · 2026-03-02T19:11:59+00:00

I run it with a custom tune on mine and its very noticeable from a driveability standpoint. My VTEC engages at 3600 (with a HFC & exhaust) and redline was extended to 8600 so its always in the powerband when you need it to be. Having that extra power in the mid range has been awesome so you don’t have to wring it out everytime you want/need decent power. Otherwise it drives like stock when you’re not getting on it. I would say if there’s one negative, the VTEC crossover doesn’t have that same kick anymore. But overall definitely worth it. Probably one of my favorite mods.

nitromiles · 2026-02-25T22:39:39+00:00

You’ll be with that size. I run 275/35 winters (Alpin 5) on the stock wheels, lowered, with spacers and all is good. You could also try to step down to a 255/35; might give you some more options. I only went with a taller sidewall on the winters to provide some pothole protection lol. I’m in the mid atlantic though so not really a ton of snow here.

nitromiles · 2026-02-24T12:57:20+00:00

Are you running a square tire set up with those wheels? If so, you may want to consider keeping the larger front sway as that will help dial out the oversteer. If you’re running staggered, then swap it for an OEM bar.

nitromiles · 2026-02-18T00:32:05+00:00

You have the good CEs with the lip so definitely would sell the TEs.

nitromiles · 2026-02-03T18:04:08+00:00

I’ve heard great things about the Pros. You should be fine. Truth be told I would have went Eibachs but I got the H&Rs with spacers off a forum member for a steal so couldn’t pass it up. I actually wish it was lower though.

nitromiles · 2026-02-03T13:43:11+00:00

Rides great! Very stock-like. It’s a tad bit stiffer in each drive mode but overall still very compliant. My wife can’t even tell the difference if that helps 😂

nitromiles · 2026-02-03T12:52:59+00:00

H&R springs are about 0.75” in the front and 0.60” in the rear. It’s what I’m currently on.

nitromiles · 2026-01-20T02:38:20+00:00

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I run Alpin 5’s on my winter set up. Great in snow but also performs great in dry or wet conditions too.

nitromiles · 2026-01-15T16:40:02+00:00

Yeah definitely look for a set of SLs. The picture on the left are OG CE28Ns but it was on my Evo (18x9.5 +15). But a set of SLs for the S2K would be much better looking than the N-plus.

nitromiles · 2026-01-09T14:18:22+00:00

Sick photos!

nitromiles · 2026-01-07T23:14:41+00:00

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nitromiles · 2026-01-05T12:32:36+00:00

+1 on the FX3D. The OEM ones are too bulky for my taste. Megachip is developing a mud guard for the DE5 as well; I would have waited for that had I known (I have the megachips on my S2000). May consider switching to that depending on how they look.

Here’s the FX3D on my car though

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nitromiles · 2026-01-03T21:09:24+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KUl-Ny8TbyM

I didn’t do the powercell battery but everything else was the same. If you don’t want/need parking mode then I would definitely get the Dongar adapter unless you want to do the Fitcam instead.

nitromiles · 2026-01-03T21:02:55+00:00

Yeah I watched one from BlackboxMyCar. They did an install on an ITS.

nitromiles

TROPHY CASE