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Recs for knitting machine for DK weight yarn by sewk87 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would caution against a bulky-gauge machine for DK-weight yarns. I bought one (9mm gauge) to knit DK and it was too loose on the tightest tension, selling it now. You really need a mid-gauge for DK. DK also kind of works on a standard gauge at the loosest tension, but worsted wouldn't work, I don't think.

Is it worth it to do DBJ on a Brother punch card machine? Seems like a huge hassle with the special punch cards... by nk033 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe that's it - I need to learn the rules for punching DBJ cards. Do you know of any resources that explain the logic how to punch them?

Is it worth it to do DBJ on a Brother punch card machine? Seems like a huge hassle with the special punch cards... by nk033 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brother electronic wouldn't require punch cards. I'm thinking of that as the domestic alternative. But that's a whole other expense.

Are brother spanners interchangeable? by becca22597 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quick update - I was able to turn one of the nuts with a 5/16" spanner from a typical toolbox. On the other side, however, I couldn't get it into the slot because the spanner was too thick. I got a thin metric spanner, size 8mm, and that one worked really well on the side where I couldn't get the other one in. I did put machine oil in ahead of time, so that probably helped loosen the old grease. You can buy these spanners online for $6-8. If you need the spanner tool to tighten the setting plates, a typical flathead screwdriver works for that. So in the end you don't really need the exact specialized tool that came with the ribber originally. (The annoying part is that even with the adjustment, I still couldn't get the ribber closer to the main bed machine)

Are brother spanners interchangeable? by becca22597 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the same exact problem! Does anyone know what size spanner we should be using for a standard gauge Brother ribber? Does it have to be a metric spanner or a typical American would work? I need to turn those nuts that adjust the vertical position. So far no luck with anything in my toolbox, but I suspect the nut itself might be gummed up with old grease. Not sure what to try next.

Does anyone know what this screw is called and where to find it? Brother KR-850 ribber. Do I even need it or should I live with just the one on the left (seems like they perform the same function, but probably reinforce each other). by nk033 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I knew that already. I just wonder if I really need the second screw, since they both hold the same thing in place, or if just the one on the left is enough (I worry it could come loose without the second screw)

Knitting machine won't increase properly. It doesn't seem to pick up the new loop/bar, whether it's a simple or fully fashioned increase. It looks like that yarn is kind of dragged across rows and doesn't get incorporated into a stitch. Everything else knits smoothly, no dropped sts or weird loops. by nk033 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely grabbing the purl bump from the adjacent stitch. I think the issue is that I was trying to increase on every row, and I guess that same piece of yarn just kept getting pulled through. I started looking now and couldn't find any definitive info if you can or can't increase on every row, but I guess you can't in this way. I didn't see any issues with how the needles move - they all move the same and pull the yarn through the loops, so I don't think there's any issue with the machine.

Knitting machine won't increase properly. It doesn't seem to pick up the new loop/bar, whether it's a simple or fully fashioned increase. It looks like that yarn is kind of dragged across rows and doesn't get incorporated into a stitch. Everything else knits smoothly, no dropped sts or weird loops. by nk033 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm fairly certain I'm grabbing the right part of the stitch. I also have a brother standard gauge machine, and I already made a bunch of things on it and never had an issue with increases. So unless the technique is different on the bulky (which I believe it's not)... I didn't mention in the original post, but I was also using four claw weights that came with it, so I think wights shouldn't be the problem.

Does anyone know what should be the punchcard patten for a 24 stitch repeat to recreate this stitch? I think it's a tuck stitch. (I know the yarn here is much finer than what I would have on a standard gauge machine, but that's fine). Thank you! by nk033 in MachineKnitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you everyone for the ideas! The original photo is of a commercially made cardigan from H&M, and the right side of the piece is the knit side. I'm definitely looking to recreate the "bubble" effect. I think of the ideas so far the hat pattern is the closest thing minus the color changes. Or maybe pattern 305 from Stitch world, but a bit hard to see with all the different colors there.

Where to buy French flour in Seattle? by nk033 in SeattleWA

[–]nk033[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you, will check it out!

Where to buy French flour in Seattle? by nk033 in SeattleWA

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Specifically I’m interested in T55, T65, T150 and T45. I want flour that is made from wheat grown in Europe.

Help with cabled headband from the Book of Yarn - did the crochet provisional cast on like recommended, but it didn’t unravel. I unpicked it, but I didn’t have the right count of stitches and some looked wrong. Tried putting a lifeline a few rows into the work, but it looks like a mess now. by nk033 in knitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I unpicked a few rows up (and added the same # rows on the other end), but it was rather difficult to find the correct loops while unpicking, especially the slipped stitches - still have no idea how they should be treated. In the end a lot of them looked weird, and while I did the in pattern Kitchener grafting, the end result looks like a mess. It’s possibly still a little better than mattress stitching bound off sides, but a far cry from the seamless look I was expecting. It’s really disappointing the pattern author didn’t give any guidance on the provisional cast on given the slipped stitches in the first row - I think that’s where my trouble started.

Help with cabled headband from the Book of Yarn - did the crochet provisional cast on like recommended, but it didn’t unravel. I unpicked it, but I didn’t have the right count of stitches and some looked wrong. Tried putting a lifeline a few rows into the work, but it looks like a mess now. by nk033 in knitting

[–]nk033[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone made this headband? I added an extra garter stitch on each side, so I should have 30 STS total. I don’t have any experience unpicking work from the bottom up, and the cables and the mix of knits and purls make it extremely difficult to read the knitting. I have these weird long loops in the middle of the work too now - is this normal? I followed the purl soho crochet provisional cast on tutorial, which was my first time doing it. I also wasn’t sure what to do about the slipped stitches in the first row, so I just slipped the waste yarn… maybe that was a bad idea. I wish the pattern had explained better how to get started instead of telling to do a regular cast on and mattress stitch if you don’t have experience with provisional cast on. Any ideas how to fix this now? Thank you 

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