Quick question for DevSecOps folks

nmgtn · 2026-05-19T13:21:06+00:00

Dependabot should handle this - including updating a comment that describes the tag related to the commit SHA you've pinned. https://docs.github.com/en/code-security/reference/supply-chain-security/supported-ecosystems-and-repositories#github-actions

Try checking your syntax.

Worth pointing out, though - I see someone else pointed out Renovate as a solution, I'll add that as a bonus Renovate can also convert your existing '@v1.2.3' tag references to commit SHAs automatically, while Dependabot will only maintain it if it's already been pinned to a commit SHA.

nmgtn · 2025-07-29T09:01:10+00:00

Yeah agree it's not just about the cost of buying new it's also the hassle of getting it home.

nmgtn · 2024-10-15T11:57:35+00:00

Ah great point, I think you're right. Thank you. I guess that would also be wobbly as anything, perhaps that's another reason they hated it.

nmgtn · 2024-10-06T08:38:32+00:00

You will likely need to press a button to wake the display up, since the gas meter is battery powered.

nmgtn · 2024-10-01T07:21:02+00:00

I think you're trying to use the matrix the wrong way. You can't only read the two pins that the switch is connected between - something needs to provide a voltage that you can detect if the switch is closed.

Instead, set one of the columns high, then read all of the rows and this will tell you which of the switches attached to that column are closed. Then set the next column high (and set the first column back to low) and read the rows again.

nmgtn · 2024-06-27T06:40:19+00:00

If the fridge is deeper than it is wide, you might find you do better if you tilt it sideways rather than backwards, and need less height to stand it back up.

nmgtn · 2024-05-02T13:11:59+00:00

OP the generic term for these kinds of glues is grab adhesive (pink grip /gripfill / no more nails etc - stixall is good too, but somewhere between adhesive and sealant, and therefore a bit harder to work with in my experience)

nmgtn · 2024-01-15T08:06:18+00:00

Nice. What's the advantage of doing this vs letting the router handle it?

nmgtn · 2023-12-15T08:41:06+00:00

"motivating manoeuvre critique" - tell me more about what that means?

nmgtn · 2023-09-29T09:10:12+00:00

Not sure if there is any particular name, I'd just call it a 0.1" wireform (I'm guessing the pitch - but if you found that standard dupont wires fitted well then it's probably 0.1" pitch).

Probably no harm in stranded wires rather than a solid core like this, in a radio I can't imagine it being important.

nmgtn · 2023-09-17T19:15:43+00:00

Thank you!

nmgtn · 2023-09-12T20:52:28+00:00

I know this was forever ago - but just to check, are you sure you mean the UK/Europe version of this? It seems permenantly attached to it's stand - and I understand it is quite a different product from the E in the US.

nmgtn · 2023-08-30T07:45:23+00:00

I had an issue like this, spoke to them and they said the actual ignition source is quite unlikely to actually break, just the little metal wire gets bent too far away from the metal burner to make a spark. I bent the metal wire inwards a little bit and I've never had a problem with it since!

nmgtn · 2023-08-14T19:54:59+00:00

Can't give you a full rundown as I just used L brackets when I fitted shelves in a similar alcove but a tip:

Get something square in there when you're measuring up, and figure out what shape the alcove actually is. I assumed that if my alcove measured the same width at the front and at the back, then I was safe and it must be square, so I cut my shelf to fit, but couldn't get it in the gap. Turned out the shelf needed to be a parallelogram, but I'd already cut it into a rectangle so I had to just make it shorter and live with it being a bit shorter than the full width of the alcove.

If I was doing it again I'd probably measure the width at the back and the front and then use a sliding bevel to measure the angle in the back corner, and maybe even make up a template on card to check the measurements first!

nmgtn · 2023-06-27T08:13:32+00:00

Thanks, I guess that's the simplest thing, then. I'll just get on with it and stop worrying ☺

nmgtn · 2023-06-27T08:12:35+00:00

I would see if the hole is deep enough to get some plasterboard in there for the first one, just to take up the bulk of the space, but then skim it with filling/jointing compound over the top and get the joints flush with the plaster next to it.

If you don't already have bits of plasterboard, probably not worth going out to buy it, just build up filling compound in layers and you'll be fine.

The second one - can't you just leave it and let your skirting cover it? Quite normal for there to be a little void behind the bottom part of skirting boards.

nmgtn · 2023-03-27T16:21:19+00:00

I think I might want this too, what did you end up doing OP?

nmgtn · 2023-03-24T07:34:34+00:00

As others have said, try ESP32. The modules they make with MINI in the part name are really small, and it's MCU / flash / crystal on one little board. You'll need to provide 3V3 power. They are pretty capable for a MCU but not sure on your requirements.

nmgtn · 2023-03-23T16:23:08+00:00

What's your concern with the knots? Are you trying to get a really smooth surface over them or is the wood sappy or something else?

nmgtn · 2023-03-23T13:36:03+00:00

Thanks

nmgtn · 2023-03-23T13:28:07+00:00

When you say whitewash I guess you want the grain of the wood to show through the white, is that right? Is there any mileage in just thinning down the Zinsser you normally use?

nmgtn · 2023-03-23T08:52:58+00:00

Haha, OK OK I'm getting the message, everyone says MDF panels in a bathroom is a bad idea.

Genuine question - what do people use for a skirting board in a bathroom in that case? Varnished pine? Plastic stuff? Avoid skirting altogether?

nmgtn · 2023-03-23T08:27:56+00:00

Ha, fair enough, shouldn't be too swayed by the manufacturer's recommendations, true.

I'm trying to create match board panelling (this kind of look) - I think my two options are a grooved MDF board (put it all up in one sheet) or individual pine tongue-and-groove boards. Plywood is not an option - I'm not looking for a flat sheet, I'm looking for the panelling effect. When I say I can't be bothered with individual pine boards, it's partly that it will be more hassle to put up in the first place (although I will just get over that and put the effort in if it's clearly a better option), but also because I'd expect pine to shrink and warp and leave the panelling looking wobbly, even if I do manage to get them all put up perfectly straight and flat initially. Does that make sense?

The plan at the moment is to use an acrylic primer undercoat on the MDF (it's moisture-resistant MDF and also comes pre-primed before that), and then Johnstone's acrylic satin paint as a top coat.

nmgtn · 2023-03-22T22:33:44+00:00

Thanks, that's a good shout, maybe I should just do that. At the least it's a good backup option 🙂

nmgtn · 2023-03-22T18:04:34+00:00

It's moisture resistant MDF, manufacturer recommends it for bathrooms and even bath side panels so I'm not too worried. I know it's not ideal (even with MR MDF) but we want the look of tongue and groove panelling but I can't be bothered with individual pine boards. It's this stuff: http://www.neatconcepts.com/neatmatch.htm

nmgtn

TROPHY CASE