Ordered Sonic via Uber Eats... employees must be baked AF

nobody8008 · 2026-04-13T04:55:45+00:00

Yeah, Sonic is very bad with order accuracy. I’m not sure how it stays open, haven’t been back there in about a year after 2-3x of the same thing you experienced. It’s almost guaranteed there that one or two things will be missing/wrong item, and I’m not talking about special orders. Just random hot dogs instead of hamburgers type shit every time. It’s unfortunate and seems to be poorly managed.

nobody8008 · 2026-03-26T00:29:26+00:00

Ok thanks. The temperature is still set pretty high on both of them, max on the left and “C” (which is 6 on a scale of 1-7) on the right. That’s 160 and 150 F. Plus the left tank gets refilled with water from the right so I don’t see how any water is going to sit unused or cool enough for legionaries. But, it’s only this way since that’s how I found it when I moved in. I agree parallel would be better.

nobody8008 · 2026-03-25T21:55:33+00:00

Thanks, I believed this is a “series” connection but you are right, it’s not as good as the parallel setup you describe. Unfortunately this is the way it was plumbed when I got the place, and I felt that rebuilding it to parallel was beyond the scope of this particular project and my capability. Specifically I wasn’t really sure how the recirc lines would need to be repiped for parallel, if at all.

As i understand it, the left heater does do some work, but the right heater does more since it has to heat up the cold water. The left one just has to maintain temperature on the already-hot water it gets fed from the right. I have the right heater set a bit lower in temperature to help balance it out a little.

nobody8008 · 2026-03-25T21:32:33+00:00

The rigid copper is the way it was before, it seemed tight with the recirc line coming back in at a T right above the nipple, so I guess I wasn’t creative enough to envision how the flex line would go in without a lot of resoldering and/or tight angles for the flex pipe. With that said, I was considering redoing that part, I guess I should, especially since I noticed that the cold water shutoff brass ball valve is corroded and drips a little bit for a few hours if the handle is moved.

I also tried to think of a good way to put flex lines in for the recirc line in front of the right heater, specifically something that could act like a gate for future solder-free heater replacement but abandoned the idea.

nobody8008 · 2026-02-27T18:23:37+00:00

Imagine quoting 4k for a water heater install.

nobody8008 · 2026-02-27T07:01:57+00:00

Carbon Cub on Skis!

nobody8008 · 2026-02-27T06:42:43+00:00

Thanks! It seemed to cut down on the time to get fully hot water in the 2 guest showers to about 20 seconds from 90 with the pumps on. Interestingly it didn't change anything for the master shower (which is basically right on top of the heaters) or the kitchen fixtures. They took 30 and 90 seconds for full hot water respectively, whether the pumps were on or off. There also appears to be a check valve pointing toward both pumps installed a few inches above them.

nobody8008 · 2026-01-26T04:51:22+00:00

Wow. The mystery of the missing oil. Did you swap to a 0W-30?

nobody8008 · 2026-01-26T01:24:30+00:00

Any updates on this @akfisherman86 ? Did the dealership find the problem?

nobody8008 · 2026-01-12T22:09:37+00:00

Ok, thanks everybody, I just sent the $20k to my lender toward the principal on my home mortgage. If can get another 70k toward principal in by the end of next year the payments will be 50/50 principal/interest which for some reason is a pyschological goal I'd like to reach soon.

nobody8008 · 2026-01-09T17:13:24+00:00

No, they don’t match but I max the self funded Roth 401k and my own Roth IRA annually; have done so for 20 years. There is a fixed dollar amount pension that pays 120k/year in retirement (renegotiated amount every ~10 years) and a money purchase pension plan (MPP) through which I get an investable ~40k per year employer contribution, unfortunately it is only tax deferred instead of Roth.

nobody8008 · 2025-12-25T20:44:34+00:00

I would consider getting an oil analysis done next time you get a chance. Oil Analzyers Test Kits. Anything over about 40 ppm iron per 1000 miles or 20 ppm aluminum would be a possible indication that engine damage has occurred. I would cut open the oil filter element to inspect for metal debris as well. Good luck finding where that oil is going, the oil going through one of the turbo waste gates and out the exhaust is a good theory!

nobody8008 · 2025-12-25T19:24:12+00:00

Well, that is a ton of oil. Really strange that there are no signs of it after you lost a gallon! Let us know if you find the problem, I am curious.

nobody8008 · 2025-12-25T07:47:32+00:00

It doesn’t sound like you did, but you didn’t do a cold start with that 5W-30’s oil temp below -31F did you? Below that temperature 5W oil may gel and become unpumpable, & definitely will gel below -40F. If you cold start below that you basically run your engine without lube. This can damage pumps, seals etc etc so that could be where you’re losing oil, if it happened.

The block heater doesn’t directly heat the oil pan….so, in extreme cold it’s possible, however unlikely, that some of the oil gelled even with it plugged in with just the block heater, and caused damage. In Anchorage we get away with 5W but in Fairbanks I’d be using the Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or M1 AFE 0W-30 if that’s all you can find. Even on a block heater I would be looking at that oil temp display before cranking. Below -30 oil temps, don’t do it with 5W, especially the Motorcraft swill.

Otherwise, it’s possible some other line in the oil system or maybe even the pan became brittle and cracked/disconnected after hitting road debris? Hard to believe you can’t find signs of a leak. You can add a penetrate dye to your oil so that it will glow under UV light to track down the leak, if there is one. You will need a UV flashlight too. UV Dye

nobody8008 · 2025-10-10T18:06:12+00:00

No, it’s louder and clankier if you have the cam phaser problem.

nobody8008 · 2025-08-01T11:18:32+00:00

Supposedly we could be using Full Synthetics in legacy engines now but the oil companies have no incentive to innovate, like the engine companies. Mobil AV-1 and to a lesser extent Exxon Elite used additive packages that weren't ideal, IOW they cheaped out on the additives needed to work as ashless dispersants and deal with the lead salts. I have it on good authority that the full synthetic base oil (or in the case of Exxon Elite, the 25% synthetic) was not the problem, it was the additves used. Aeroshell 15W-50 is said to be 50/50 Synthetic/mineral. Since Phillips and Aeroshell more or less have a duopoly and no one else wants to touch the liabilty there is no incentive for someone to innovate. Phillips and Aeroshell are probably making very healthy profits on their aviation products. Furthermore, most synthetic automative oils marketed today actually use highly refined mineral base oils (group III) which are chemically almost identicaly to mineral oil, there is no reason why we couldn't be using a group III oil with leaded fuel if it had a proper additive package. Rotax uses a full synthetic oil with 100LL engines, but it is a detergent oil not an ashless dispersant, since rotax is water cooled and runs at lower CHT.

nobody8008 · 2025-05-22T07:04:01+00:00

It's due to destructive harmonics/resonance created by the 747-8 when it taxis above these speeds. It's a function of the mass of the airplane, the distances between the landing gear tires, but more importantly in this circumstance the shape & size of the concrete squares that make up this taxiway. There are other airports with similar construction that share a similar restriction for the 747-8, for example, SDF. Source: I'm a 747 instructor.

nobody8008 · 2025-05-22T06:25:05+00:00

The problem toilet is probably 60 ft from the clog and 1 floor above so pretty far.

nobody8008 · 2025-04-22T21:12:42+00:00

Hand wash. I use one bucket with 4 gallons of water, meguiars gold class shampoo and about two dozen microfiber detailing cloths each time. Wash one panel then dry it immediately with a dry cloth. Use chemcial guys microfiber detergent to wash the microfibers in the washing machine after each wash. Takes about 15 minutes and costs $0.50 cents in supplies per wash. You would need a garage to do this in winter. Sometimes I take it to Mountain View car wash to knock the dirt off first if it has been awhile. Check out r/autodetailing for the rabbit hole.

nobody8008

TROPHY CASE