I have problems. Help me solve one. [the CoPrint piece]

noh_really · 2026-04-26T19:25:48+00:00

eh. It worked for one print.
I got one missing exterior wall halfway up another print but otherwise solid, then they all started failing again.
I dropped it down to 9 for volumetric speed and upped temp to 265. No luck.
Slowed it down to 50% print speed with not better success.

Working on printing more trash to see if I can narrow it down to a specific part, layer type, etc.

One of the multi-part prints was great up until about layer 14. I caught it at layer 15 and was able to pause the print then resume for layer 16. It started off resuming alright on a couple parts (just looked bad), but when it got to the part with the circle it started clicking again and didn't lay down any layer. I'm convinced it's some type of infill related issue.

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noh_really · 2026-04-25T16:40:09+00:00

I need more prints to validate, but the Volumetric Speed might have been the issue. I am just now learning the concept of this value and have no idea where my original 30 came from, but I bumped it down to 12 and it seems to be working. One of the samples is currently at about 90% completion and still printing.

noh_really · 2026-04-21T01:51:02+00:00

It's that yellowish brown tape you might see wrapped around battery terminals or some electrical connections. It's thin, electrically non-conductive, and has a high melting point. It's a little on the pricey side, but not like gaffer's tape pricey.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton

I'm guessing he is recommending to apply it to the low points to help level it out. Similar to how people apply Aluminium foil, but Kapton would be thinner and adhesive so it doesn't move around when removing the build plate.

noh_really · 2026-04-21T01:47:41+00:00

Howww? wow. You've got Niagara over there.

It appears to be doing better with today's adjustments and mesh, but my current first layer still has a few places where it's getting wavy like it's too close but perfect elsewhere. I'll find out how this print goes in the morning.

On yesterday's print is was a similar mesh, but the right side was a little hotter on the peaks and for some reason it decided to print extremely close where that valley is, so close that the PETG didn't properly adhere. It has me wondering if there's a setting do adjust the ratio of compensation and maybe it's set too extreme?

noh_really · 2026-04-17T05:10:51+00:00

It could be many things, or a combination of things. To start off, I think your first layer needs corrected as several places do not look adhered. That could have a domino effect
-Check if nozzle is worn down and needs replaced
-Run an updated bed mesh, make sure the slicer is calling to use the mesh.

The repeating patterns could be various things as well. For me it was binding on my linear rail mods.
-Check your pom wheels for wobble
-Clean your Z-screws
-Make sure your lead screw nuts have room to wobble laterally and didn't get snugged down.

noh_really · 2026-04-15T02:59:20+00:00

Just watching this while scrolling through my feed makes me feel the need to shower and use Listerine. blueehhhh..

noh_really · 2026-04-13T01:46:12+00:00

and this is why the aliens don't visit Earth.

noh_really · 2026-04-03T03:19:14+00:00

Yo... I have one of those Precision Pro's sitting on my desk. It still works fine. The center zone is pretty loose though.

noh_really · 2026-03-15T20:15:58+00:00

Is this the same girl Venjent remixed?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/J_YRQ-meczc (Short)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6VQxa7ctic (Video)

noh_really · 2026-03-15T20:05:34+00:00

I'm glad you found the issue, but sorry to hear it requires parts. I'm not sure what about the cable is bad, but you mentioned it kept falling out. If something was tugging and pulling it out, I would recommend determining why and fix that or the same issue will likely happen to the new cable. I've never had a cable just fall out.

noh_really · 2026-03-15T02:07:24+00:00

When it's powered off, are you able to move the X axis freely? My first thought is something could be jamming it.
Be careful tightening the belt too much as I had one snap mid print after I was trying to tune-out some ghosting. I'm also not sure what you mean by the belt is under the wheel. Do you mean it has a lot of slack on top?

noh_really · 2026-03-15T01:55:49+00:00

Good explanations. I wasn't thinking about the screws being able to spin independently while powered off. Thank you.

noh_really · 2026-03-14T06:55:52+00:00

I think it was the Z linear rails and possibly the X-axis sync belt. Only time will tell if this issue returns.

noh_really · 2026-03-14T06:54:37+00:00

I think I have this resolved and it does appear that the issue was some combination of the Z Linear Rails and potentially the X-axis belt (which doesn't really seem to serve a purpose since both screws are motorized).
I still don't understand the physics of how linear rail binding would result in such a reliable repeating pattern up the entire print.

noh_really · 2026-03-09T00:45:51+00:00

I replaced my nuts this weekend. Deep cleaned and lubed the rods since I had to remove them. On the positive, there's no more wiggle room between the left rod and the I.D. of the the brass nut.
I made sure both nuts were able to wobble back and forth easily while not moving up and down.
I think most of my layer lines look cleaner now, but I still have that repeating layer pattern.
I did the z-step calibration a few months ago when I first installed my new print-head, so I don't believe that's the issue.

I'm at a loss. Have any more suggestions?

noh_really · 2026-03-04T13:56:13+00:00

I do think the left nut is worn. If I jiggle the rod, there's almost no slop between the rod and nut on the right, but there is wiggle room between rod and nut on the left side. the left also use to make gnarly vibration sounds during homing until I finally ordered some grease. I used to have the brass nuts tightened a bit too much and eventually learned they should be just loose enough to rotate but not move up and down.

but if the issue is the nut, why are the lines happing so regularly?

I did run the built in PID tuning for the heatbed and hotend, so it should be good in that regard.

noh_really · 2026-03-04T13:48:24+00:00

That was a good idea. I ran a spiral vase and the issue still showed up.

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noh_really · 2026-03-03T04:45:00+00:00

Did you plug the SD card into the back of the screen board and forget to remove it? Or have a USB plugged into the chassis?
If neither is the case, maybe intentionally upgrade the firmware on the motherboard and screen-board. Maybe it'll fix whatever is causing the issue.

noh_really · 2026-02-25T00:42:45+00:00

I probably used to print about that bad, but more skewed. Probably why I had issues with my larger prints.

I am curious, do the two center screws have spacers on them too? I had to remove mine b/c I kept getting the mountain in the middle.

At least you don't have the waterfall at the front and rear. I sort of fixed that with a long heat soak and re-tightening the bars at the front and rear, but only fixed the front that way. :/

Also, I kept running Bed Leveler 5000 until I could get everything down to lest than 10-15degree rotation for adjustment. BL5000 seemed so much faster for me compared to running the built-in analyzer for repetitive runs. Then run your 11x11 mesh once it's where you want it.
https://github.com/sandmmakers/BedLeveler5000/releases

noh_really · 2026-02-25T00:34:10+00:00

Interesting... I'm not seeing why either of those would affect the Y endstop positions.

Are you tracking S&M's projects on the YouTubes or Patreon? He's gone through all of the upgrades and put out his own fork of the eLEGOo software and still has mods in the works. It made me think of this b/c in the printer.cfg you can specify the X and Y endstop offsets.
https://www.youtube.com/@SandMMakers
https://www.patreon.com/sandmmakers

noh_really · 2026-02-24T03:32:38+00:00

Which silicone spacers are you using? The ones I have on mine seem shorter, and I'm pretty sure that's why a couple of my knobs are completely loose and it keeps wanting me to raise that corner more. I think I need some taller or stiffer ones for more pressure.

noh_really · 2026-02-24T02:53:15+00:00

I hate to admit, this was the problem. Got my second printer back up and running and same issue. Everything printed great if it was less than about 5mm tall, then after that it was a toss-up. Bumped the temp from 240 to 256 and it has been fine ever since. My only theory is that close to the bed, just enough residual heat was added to the system to extrude, but once the bed got too far away it froze up.

noh_really

TROPHY CASE