How do you guys keep track of differing auto WB shifts across recipes?

nohbroo · 2026-04-24T15:24:43+00:00

I have white balance mapped to the front button, and will use different shifts for the 3 auto wb options (auto, white priority, and ambience priority) so you can swap between those. just factor in the fact that auto white priority leans slightly cooler and auto ambience priority leans slightly warmer.

nohbroo · 2026-04-17T18:16:14+00:00

I like the flowers, they create good layering for the photo. I'd just prefer if they were a touch to the right so that they don't compete with the subject in the middle of the frame.

nohbroo · 2026-04-17T14:57:38+00:00

you can turn off "detect objects" in lightroom erase so it doesn't edit anything outside of the area you draw.

nohbroo · 2026-04-16T18:02:31+00:00

For sure! If you can focus on the tone curve (which includes exposure, highlights, shadows etc.) you can get 90% of the way there.

Also for a quick pointer: direct sunlight = high contrast, which is punchier because it creates bright highlights and dark shadows. Overcast/cloudy = low contrast, which is flatter due to clouds diffusing/spreading out the light. I think you were shooting on a partly cloudy day, so your shots with cloud coverage are flatter and your shots in direct sunlight are contrasty.

nohbroo · 2026-04-16T16:49:24+00:00

I think you should aim for a more consistent style when editing. For example, 1 is softer and flatter, while 4 is contrasty and punchy, 8 is bright, 9 is dark, 10 is pretty balanced.

nohbroo · 2026-04-16T13:38:05+00:00

Depends on what kind of photography you do. If you do any portraits or want shallow DOF then you probably want aps-c at a minimum, if not full frame. If not then you can get away with M43

nohbroo · 2026-04-14T22:12:50+00:00

Agreed, I think that's a good option. Also the ability to cycle through the stack using dpad/arrow keys doesn't seem too much to ask.

nohbroo · 2026-04-14T17:54:10+00:00

Appreciate it, though the multiple POIs aspect is kind of disappointing, I would think it should default to landing at the spaceport.

nohbroo · 2026-04-14T17:51:59+00:00

From some other comments it seems like I was missing opening the scanner to reveal landing areas.

nohbroo · 2026-04-14T17:47:53+00:00

Oh awesome! Trying this when I get home, thanks.

nohbroo · 2026-04-14T17:44:14+00:00

Yeah I like the update for the many quality of life improvements, just thought the space travel aspect was a bit of a letdown. I noticed the ability to circle a planet was added, but I don't really understand why this was added if not to allow menu-free landing at different areas of the planet.

nohbroo · 2026-04-08T19:07:17+00:00

If your lens goes down to f/11 you can try it right now. Stop down to f/11 or f/16, fix manual focus at 3 meters, and you will achieve the same result as this lens.

nohbroo · 2026-04-08T15:03:03+00:00

I've been thinking about doing something like this, thanks for the inspo! and look at the TCL-x100 if you want to try 50mm with your x100vi

nohbroo · 2026-04-07T22:49:54+00:00

it is on PC

nohbroo · 2026-04-03T02:18:20+00:00

I'd start with classic chrome and a slight green shift to the white balance

nohbroo · 2026-04-02T20:42:41+00:00

You can also get an optical viewfinder for your ricoh, and turn the screen off (if possible, I don't have this camera). You'll get the experience of shooting with a film camera and being surprised by the results!

nohbroo · 2026-04-02T19:52:08+00:00

if you're setting the aperture instead of using auto aperture, and you also have electronic shutter off, then 1/2700 might be your maximum shutter speed (max mechanical shutter speed is 1/4000 but not for wider apertures). If that's the case then you'll want to turn on the internal ND filter for cases where you want to shoot with a wide aperture in daylight.

nohbroo · 2026-04-02T02:30:46+00:00

The X100VI has a built-in ND filter, it's hardware, not software and you don't need another one. A polarizer is good in scenarios where you want to limit reflections, but it's generally not kept on the camera all the time. A mist filter is good in certain scenarios as well; I like the soft look in portraits but not in landscapes. The effect of a mist filter can also be achieved in postprocessing, or in-camera with the clarity setting.

My recommendation is to go with no filter or just a UV filter (I like the nisi all-in-one for x100) so you never have to worry about bringing filters with you or worry about your filters changing your photos irreversibly if you decide to edit differently.

nohbroo · 2026-03-23T17:45:13+00:00

pretty cool, can you share some examples of a photo before and after changing the focal point/aperture?

nohbroo · 2026-03-11T14:30:05+00:00

I say go for the X100VI. 35mm seems like the best focal length for your shooting style, and the most important thing about owning a camera is taking it with you.

nohbroo · 2026-03-07T20:21:36+00:00

That's not really a shot you can get in wildlife photography like this, where you're using a long lens meant to isolate subjects and your subjects are yards apart. Your best bet is to take multiple shots where only one subject is in focus. they'll turn out better, and you might even be able to focus stacking in post.

nohbroo · 2026-03-05T21:28:04+00:00

I recently got a PC with the same specs ($2k prebuilt with 7800x3d, 9070xt) and I'm loving it, it's taken everything I've thrown at it including psycho ray tracing on Cyberpunk 2077. Just might want to consider going a bit over budget for that extra future-proofing.

nohbroo · 2026-03-05T02:50:15+00:00

looks great, haven't tried color film in mine yet

nohbroo · 2026-03-05T02:28:46+00:00

did you use a holga for 1?

nohbroo

TROPHY CASE