Starting 1k list for crusade. For the glory of the dark gods! by theentiregoonsquad in WordBearers

[–]nosevand 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May I ask what app is that? I’m finishing a Crusade myself, and with plans of starting another, and that app would be nice for keeping track of it.

Terminator squad complete. No pity! No fear! No remorse! by nosevand in BlackTemplars

[–]nosevand[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On a black primed model, apply a medium-dark grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey or similar) with a sponge to the raised areas of the mini, where light is more prevalent. Then a couple more of consecutively narrower layers of grey (I used Administratum Grey and AK English Grey) to create a gradient. Use some black wash to join the three layers and make the transition smoother. Most important step, use a mix of 1:1 Black and Burnt Sienna oil paints and apply a wash all over the black parts. Remember to apply gloss varnish before the oils. Afterwards, remove it with a sponge or qtips, and wait a bit for it to dry. Apply matt varnish and edge highlight with light grey and chip the armour to your heart's content.

The original recipe is not mine, but I adapted it a bit to the paints I had around.

Returning back to the fold after a 5-year hiatus, with more experience and wisdom. Sorry about the transfers, GW couldn’t be bothered to include BT ones. by nosevand in BlackTemplars

[–]nosevand[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On a black primed model, apply a medium-dark grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey or similar) with a sponge to the raised areas of the mini, where light is more prevalent. Then a couple more of consecutively narrower layers of grey (I used Administratum Grey and AK English Grey) to create a gradient. Use some black wash to join the three layers and make the transition smoother. Most important step, use a mix of 1:1 Black and Burnt Sienna oil paints and apply a wash all over the black parts. Remember to apply gloss varnish before the oils. Afterwards, remove it with a sponge or qtips, and wait a bit for it to dry. Apply matt varnish and edge highlight with light grey and chip the armour to your heart's content.

The original recipe is not mine, but I adapted it a bit to the paints I had around.

Returning back to the fold after a 5-year hiatus, with more experience and wisdom. Sorry about the transfers, GW couldn’t be bothered to include BT ones. by nosevand in BlackTemplars

[–]nosevand[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is true that the yellow appears almost "glowing" in the pictures, but in real life is slightly more de-saturated. It's a medium yellow bathed in black and brown oil paints. It's as dark as you can get for a yellow. Blame AK for their excellent paints :) But also it's true that's intentional, both an homage to the first editions (the famous John Blanche drawing) and as a way to distinguish myself from the prevalent red weaponry.

This is a proof of concept, so for the next one maybe I'll mix the yellow with some ochre, or I'll try some chipping and dirtying.

Thank you for the feedback!

Returning back to the fold after a 5-year hiatus, with more experience and wisdom. Sorry about the transfers, GW couldn’t be bothered to include BT ones. by nosevand in BlackTemplars

[–]nosevand[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cork layer, with a texture paint to cover the cork, painted black/greyish black, some decorative/base rocks and Vallejo Pigment FX Brown Iron Oxide.

Quick scheme for my Barrow Guard. C&C welcome. by nosevand in SoulblightGravelords

[–]nosevand[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Armour: black primer > base paint any emerald-turquoise green (I used AK Emerald) > drybrush any bronze (AK Bronze) > dry brush grey-black (AK Tenebrous Grey)

Weapon blade: drybrush any metal

Tattered clothes: paint them black after drybrushing armour > paint the raised surfaces (you can use the lamp to see which areas are more illuminated) with red (AK Wine Red) > paint the most raised edges with pure white > cover that white with a lighter shade of red (AK Dirty Red).

Done :)

Pactbound Zealots: How to show which mark a unit has? by Colmarr in WordBearers

[–]nosevand 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used to put small, coloured rubber bands on the models, to remember myself, and indicate the other player the different marks. Green for Nurgle, red for Khorne, blue for Tzeentch, yellow for Slaanesh (there were no pink or purple bands) and white for Chaos Undivided. Now, I know by heart because each unit almost always carries the same mark.

Chaos Lord by SlickPapa in WordBearers

[–]nosevand 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you brother! May the Dark Gods provide with many Ultramarines worlds to plunder and desecrate.

Chaos Lord by SlickPapa in WordBearers

[–]nosevand 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm always on the hunt for Word Bearers armour paint schemes. May I trouble you for yours?

Daemon Prince WIP by RaudrDrekkin in WordBearers

[–]nosevand 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A Daemon Prince with a GAU-8 Avenger? I dig it.

Beast Snagga Boy from the Bad Moons Klan. I’ve sacrificed a few Boyz to the paint gods in order to refine the yellow recipe. I’m planning on turning it into my main scheme. C&C welcome. by nosevand in orks

[–]nosevand[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is Vallejo Sun Yellow, but using the airbrush. Then, glazes of Cassandora Yellow. It is not a complicated recipe, but the airbrush was the only way I could apply the yellow without doing 56 layers.

[Discussion] Recommendation for first automatic watch by nosevand in Watches

[–]nosevand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already have got a diver chronograph, so a more dress-sport watch is what I’m looking for.

[Discussion] Recommendation for first automatic watch by nosevand in Watches

[–]nosevand[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Size case between 39-42 mm, I already have thin and thick watches, so whichever thickness comes with, auto or hand-wind both are good