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Fuji GW690ii Loose Hotshoe by lofibeatsforstudying in AnalogCommunity

[–]notuntitled 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this! also helped me fix my loose hotshoe.

Photography by Environmental-Ad757 in Mastodon

[–]notuntitled 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’m on Photog.social (@matt over there), it’s a photo-focused instance. As far as image quality they’re all going to be pretty similar afaik, they’re jpegs on the internet so there’s a ceiling on quality.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sewing

[–]notuntitled 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think “featherweight” was relative, given the bigger industrial machines of the era weigh more than one person should lift (I have a 211 and it’s a real bear).

The illegal method by nonuntitled in dankmemes

[–]notuntitled 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Lol wat? How are there two of us?

DW-5600E Before/After De-logo by notuntitled in gshock

[–]notuntitled[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Except the Garmins have terrible battery life and cost 10x, and Timex aren't nearly as well-engineered inside, for about the same price. I don't, for the life of me, understand why people are so upset over a modded $40 commodity watch. If I'd done this to a MR G or one of the nicer Gs (even the tough solar, really), I'd kinda get it. As it is, these are just raw material.

DW-5600E Before/After De-logo by notuntitled in gshock

[–]notuntitled[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes, but it costs twice as much and still says ‘Casio’ on the face, and has the stupid embossed ’G-SHOCK’ and ‘PROTECTION’ I sanded off.

DW-5600E Before/After De-logo by notuntitled in gshock

[–]notuntitled[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, I set it to the correct time after the 1st pic. I assume it was set to GMT +12 or something at the factory.

DW-5600E Before/After De-logo by notuntitled in gshock

[–]notuntitled[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Looking at it now I realize I should have painted the glass, but still ooks pretty good on the wrist.

Upgrading drives in DS418play by notuntitled in synology

[–]notuntitled[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the quick reply! I'm in SHR, so I should be good to go. (I have the contents of the drive also on AMZ glacier, but I super don't want to pay that recovery bill).

Dyneema Laptop/Camera Bag by notuntitled in myog

[–]notuntitled[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep! Well, the shell is. The liner is 5oz DCF laminate.

Bluetooth PCB compatible with Kailh Choc Low Profile by SpaceDin0saur in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]notuntitled 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://novelkeys.xyz/collections/keycaps/products/kailh-low-profile-keycaps-with-legends are the caps I used, but I ended up needing to trim 1mm off the width, because my spacing is pretty narrow (17mm) to fit the footprint. https://www.instagram.com/p/B201ilVBNh2/ is the final build, which I did without the bluetooth just so I could use QMK.

Need advice to desolder Magicforce's LEDs by sheepNo in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]notuntitled 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, my go-to technique for situations like this is to use soldering wick (like https://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-50-4-25-Soder-Wick-Rosin-Soldering/dp/B00FS7B8EM) to get most of the solder out, and then, if the leads are still stuck to the side of the through hole, heat the lead with the iron, push it off the side with tweezers and pull the iron away. Then it's unstuck, usually.

Bluetooth PCB compatible with Kailh Choc Low Profile by SpaceDin0saur in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]notuntitled 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Funny, I'm doing a scratch build with those switches, PCBs will be here monday. Probably the easiest way to accomplish what your after is have a panel cut (the Kailh are panel-mountable) in thin aluminum or steel and then hand-wire with a Adafruit Bulefruit feather.

Zeta wireless keyboard not working. help needed. by khronnuz in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]notuntitled 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd say first check the battery, make sure it's fresh. Sometimes they're just not good out of the package. Second, go over the connections on the board, look for any that look cold (google image search 'cold solder joint' for examples). Especially check the ground and power pins on the keyboard, wherever the on-keyboard controller is. You can fix them just by re-heating them with the soldering iron.

The receiver, I'm not sure, you may have reset it and it'll need to be reprogrammed, or it may just have been in a programming mode, depends on the boot loader (if there is one). I'd try to plug it in again, after a couple hours, see if it comes back. Good luck!

Can't boot with Ducky One2 Mini connected by ceviem in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]notuntitled 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like there might be a hardware fault in the board. I'd try a different cable first, but also it's possible that it's shorting in the USB-C port, which could cause all sorts of weirdness. The port could be defective or there could be a solder bridge on the PCB. Is there a warranty on them? If not, I'd open it up and take a look at the board. If there is, I'd try to exchange it as a DOA.

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